Just do a stock replacement

 

just quick quesiton, why do you want a stage 2. And do you know what a stage 2 would do? not doubting you just wanna know.

 

Swag points with his buddies

 

If your clutch went out, your flywheel will need to be resurfaced too. Ditching the stock dual mass POS flywheel is one the best things I've done. It's also possible a previous owner already did this... pull the trans and verify what you've got.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/perfor...5tn1s1n0lpl9a3

 

Its a legit question tho. I just wanna know what his reasons are. I am not going to advise him to do or not to do. Just plain wanna know why stage 2 on stock car. And this whole stage 1,2,3 thing i think is just a selling scheme. just look at the clutch face and u will know how aggressive it will be

But i just ordered JWT lightweight fly and JWT clutch package from CPZ. it was going for like 790 shipped. Also if you order u get SS clutch line, throwout bearing, pilot bushing and that ball head thingy that is used as a wedge for ur pivot fork.

 

So MUCH this. ^^^

There is NO "standard" for what these "clutch stages" are. What one mfgr says is a "stage 2" is equivalent to another's Stage 1 or 3 or 1,0000 because there's nothing to say what is what.

Suffice that a "stage 2" is a bit more aggressive than THAT MFGR'S "stage 1". And a "stage 4" is going to incorporate pucks and extreme composite materials construction.

But seriously, Bak3rme asks an entirely appropriate question to help the OP properly define and match the proper clutch recommendation to his/her needs.

For street/hills (non-extreme, stock power application), I have my OE clutch still working perfectly and put a JWT clutch with an iron flywheel (to reduce some chatter) in my kid's HR with a ZSP HD CSC. Beautiful setup and more than anyone would ever need for dual purpose cars unless you tend to be rough on hardware which, proudly, he's not. (#drivingschool does pay off)

 

If you like the OEM feel of the clutch engagement and appreciate quiet engagement from stop to 1st gear, then stay away from Lightweight Flywheels. Yes the OEM dual mass is heavy and yes they can wear out over time, but Nissan chose this design for a reason; to prevent torsional vibration on the crank resulting in MT gear chatter (sounds like china dishes rattling/vibrating in your gearbox) at low RPM (< 1500). This can be mitigated by using a heavier single mass flywheel. But the chatter will still be present. Adjusting driving habits will also help compensate.

Most people just roll with the JWT flywheel, these are very lightweight (14lbs) and rebuildable, but there are other options available, for example Specialty Z sells a segmented single mass that's 18lbs. Competition Clutch offers a Single-mass flywheel just over 26lbs that is reported to keep gear chatter at OEM levels. Exedy and ACT also have some nice offerings. The OEM dual mass unit weighs in at 28lbs.

I personally like the SpecialtyZ design, but the added chatter that comes with it can get irritating because of my morning commute in traffic and then climbing up a 4 story parking garage with speed bumps. All low RPM stuff resulting in near constant chatter. Maybe I'm just getting old.
-Icer