How did the car run prior to... "recently installed spark plugs, NWP throttle body, cleaned the MAF and got a new key from the dealership." ?

If everything was fine before these things you need to go back over what you've done. Did you disconnect the battery prior to unplugging the MAF or throttle body?

It sounds like you've got either a fuel delivery problem OR an "ecu doesn't know what the hell's going on cause freakin Antny done forgot to plug something back in" problem.

 

 

 

Oh, so not Antny's fault. So, it was fine before 6 moths ago Saturday? It's started every week, so who's starting it? Your little brother with a "need for speed" maybe?
If it was fine when you stopped driving it 6 months ago and now all of a sudden it's not, maybe old bad gas, fuel delivery OR the person watching the car did something.

 

My guess is that you need to do a throttle relearn with the new NWP. The ecu has to learn the new throttle, since its calibrated to the oem one. You can look up the procedure on here in the forum.

Another place to look is the coilpack plugs that hook to the wiring harness. A lot of folks switch out cylinder 4 and 6 plugs, causing rough idle and operation (Possibly hard starts as well).

 

"recently installed spark plugs, NWP throttle body, cleaned the MAF and got a new key from the dealership."

"prior to all the recent work the car would still crank forever before starting. And yes the battery was disconnected before all the work was done."

The issue was there before the throttle body.

 

 

I'd question whether fuel pressure might be an issue. The fuel pressure regulator in a VQ should maintain some pressure in the lines at all times. If not, it'll take time to built pressure and get the engine to start.

 

Stupid question, when was the last time you put gas in the car? Is it running on the gas that has been sitting there for 6 months?

 

Building on dkmura's comment on fuel pressure, does it start any faster if you cycle the key a few times first, before trying to start the car. This would allow the fuel pump to prime a few times and build up pressure in the lines (if fuel pressure is the issue). If it starts faster after trying that, then you have something else to look at (fuel pressure regulator).

Note: I am basing this on the behavior of other vehicles I own and am more familiar with, that cycle the fuel pump for a few seconds with Ignition On. I'm not familiar enough with my Z yet to know that it also does this. For example, our 2005 Volvo V70R starts easier if we hesitate for a second between Ign On and Start positions when turning the key - it gives the fuel pump time to build pressure (this is something I'll fix, eventually).

 

 

 

OK, so next time, cycle the ignition a few times (without attempting to start it), and then cycle on again and try to start it...see if it catches quicker than without the additional cycles.

 

Did you ever figure out what happened?

 

 

 

Glad to hear you got it sorted out! And thanks for posting the resolution, too.