Jerk in 1st gear? Paranoia?
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icer5160 (03-04-2019)
#22
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iTrader: (4)
^^^
If that's the sound you're hearing, then the diff is either toast (wrecked bearings, etc) or the diff was welded. You got options, you can pick up a used OEM open diff from a base model for super cheap, or you can try to find a used OEM LSD (vLSD) for a bit more cash, or you can go straight for a Quaife or O.S. Giken LSD and get your existing diff pumpkin rebuilt. While you're at it you can get those OEM diff. bushings replaced because they are most likely toast anyway. A new diff is expensive, but sooner or later it would need to get done anyway. If you plan to keep the car long term, it's a worthwhile investment.
-Icer
If that's the sound you're hearing, then the diff is either toast (wrecked bearings, etc) or the diff was welded. You got options, you can pick up a used OEM open diff from a base model for super cheap, or you can try to find a used OEM LSD (vLSD) for a bit more cash, or you can go straight for a Quaife or O.S. Giken LSD and get your existing diff pumpkin rebuilt. While you're at it you can get those OEM diff. bushings replaced because they are most likely toast anyway. A new diff is expensive, but sooner or later it would need to get done anyway. If you plan to keep the car long term, it's a worthwhile investment.
-Icer
#23
New Member
Thread Starter
^^^
If that's the sound you're hearing, then the diff is either toast (wrecked bearings, etc) or the diff was welded. You got options, you can pick up a used OEM open diff from a base model for super cheap, or you can try to find a used OEM LSD (vLSD) for a bit more cash, or you can go straight for a Quaife or O.S. Giken LSD and get your existing diff pumpkin rebuilt. While you're at it you can get those OEM diff. bushings replaced because they are most likely toast anyway. A new diff is expensive, but sooner or later it would need to get done anyway. If you plan to keep the car long term, it's a worthwhile investment.
-Icer
If that's the sound you're hearing, then the diff is either toast (wrecked bearings, etc) or the diff was welded. You got options, you can pick up a used OEM open diff from a base model for super cheap, or you can try to find a used OEM LSD (vLSD) for a bit more cash, or you can go straight for a Quaife or O.S. Giken LSD and get your existing diff pumpkin rebuilt. While you're at it you can get those OEM diff. bushings replaced because they are most likely toast anyway. A new diff is expensive, but sooner or later it would need to get done anyway. If you plan to keep the car long term, it's a worthwhile investment.
-Icer
#24
Master
iTrader: (8)
http://www.slidegood.com/nissan/350z...ntial-assembly
and then drop yours, slam quaife in it, swap out again and sell this one
and then drop yours, slam quaife in it, swap out again and sell this one
#26
New Member
Thread Starter
Bring this thread up again bc i wanted to see if any of you know if its uncommon for there to be a rattle that could be due to differential? I was in a drive thru line angled and there was a rattling sound coming from rear. Then when i straightened out, it went away. Skipping only happens when turning.
Does the diff have mounts or what could be causing that rattling noise? And lastly, could changing the diff fluid temporarily fix the problem or atleast not be as bad? ALSO, should i bother getting quality diff fluid with the off chance i would probably just have to replace the diff? I dont want to spend more money than i have to
Does the diff have mounts or what could be causing that rattling noise? And lastly, could changing the diff fluid temporarily fix the problem or atleast not be as bad? ALSO, should i bother getting quality diff fluid with the off chance i would probably just have to replace the diff? I dont want to spend more money than i have to
Last edited by Brian_z33; 03-11-2019 at 02:08 AM.
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icer5160 (03-11-2019)
#28
New Member
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^^ What trav said.
I wouldn't even spend the money nor waste good quality diff fluid on a suspect "grenade-ed" diff. Even if you have a failed diff bushing (leaking black ooze down rear subframe), I haven't heard any reports of people noticing a loud rattle under these conditions. Now note, that you will hear an audible rattle coming from the clutch throw-out (thrust) bearing while sitting idle in neutral. This is perfectly normal and all 6MT Z33s exhibit this behavior. It's usually pretty easy to pinpoint this noise as coming from the bell housing with the window down, engine idling, and pumping the clutch pedal while in neutral. Just thought I would point this out to avoid confusing a "normal" noise from an "abnormal" one.
Good Luck!
-Icer
I wouldn't even spend the money nor waste good quality diff fluid on a suspect "grenade-ed" diff. Even if you have a failed diff bushing (leaking black ooze down rear subframe), I haven't heard any reports of people noticing a loud rattle under these conditions. Now note, that you will hear an audible rattle coming from the clutch throw-out (thrust) bearing while sitting idle in neutral. This is perfectly normal and all 6MT Z33s exhibit this behavior. It's usually pretty easy to pinpoint this noise as coming from the bell housing with the window down, engine idling, and pumping the clutch pedal while in neutral. Just thought I would point this out to avoid confusing a "normal" noise from an "abnormal" one.
Good Luck!
-Icer
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