06 350z Problems - New Owner
Hi Guys, I recently picked up my first 350z (wanted one for a long time now) I’m 19 and not great with knowledge on looking after a car. Or anything about cars really.
I love it, it’s so fun to drive and as I’m sure you’ll all agree, a truly beautiful car.
Unfortunately, today (bought the car last Saturday), as I accelerate, there is quite a harsh rattling sound (almost as if there’s a bowl with a spoon in it in the boot). If that makes sense. Kind of ruins the sound of the car. Only noticed it today and my dad thinks it’s because the gear box needs oiling. At first I thought it was the exhaust as something sounded loose. You can hear this rattling when revving stationary or moving.
The clutch also also seems to be getting stuck at the bottom making going into gear difficult sometimes (this happens when shifting quite quickly, doesn’t happen if I baby it). The boots broken (springs and lifts, read about this being common).
Also want to sort out all the stone chips and scratches but don’t know what would be recommend for this. Thanks Guys.
I love it, it’s so fun to drive and as I’m sure you’ll all agree, a truly beautiful car.
Unfortunately, today (bought the car last Saturday), as I accelerate, there is quite a harsh rattling sound (almost as if there’s a bowl with a spoon in it in the boot). If that makes sense. Kind of ruins the sound of the car. Only noticed it today and my dad thinks it’s because the gear box needs oiling. At first I thought it was the exhaust as something sounded loose. You can hear this rattling when revving stationary or moving.
The clutch also also seems to be getting stuck at the bottom making going into gear difficult sometimes (this happens when shifting quite quickly, doesn’t happen if I baby it). The boots broken (springs and lifts, read about this being common).
Also want to sort out all the stone chips and scratches but don’t know what would be recommend for this. Thanks Guys.
Hi Danny,
Is the noise only coming from the rear/trunk area? Or is it heavily focused around the clutch? How many miles are on the Z? What trim package do you have? These cars are usually modified by previous owners, are you aware of any aftermarket boltons or additions made to the vehicle?
Noises from the trunk are often related to the hatch hook/latch system. Just a few bolts that need to be tightened up. I would look there first.
Regarding the clutch pedal, I would suggest checking the pedal linkages (clevis pin, and master cylinder rod). Make sure the master cylinder isn't leaking any fluid at the rod. If you can jack up the car, get underneath and inspect the slave cylinder, sometimes these will start leaking and can cause pedal and engagement issues. Also what color is your clutch fluid? If it's a dark black, I would call it a day and just replace the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the soft line connected to the slave cylinder (assuming the Z is high mileage). The OEM parts are readily available and pretty cheap, all told should be less than $200.00. Bleeding the system is pretty straightforward, but is best/easiest done with two people. Replacing the parts is also simple and can be done with basic hand tools. Just take precautions to keep the clutch fluid from dripping onto any painted surfaces! If you're not comfortable with this, I would just take it to a shop.
Good Luck!
-Icer
Is the noise only coming from the rear/trunk area? Or is it heavily focused around the clutch? How many miles are on the Z? What trim package do you have? These cars are usually modified by previous owners, are you aware of any aftermarket boltons or additions made to the vehicle?
Noises from the trunk are often related to the hatch hook/latch system. Just a few bolts that need to be tightened up. I would look there first.
Regarding the clutch pedal, I would suggest checking the pedal linkages (clevis pin, and master cylinder rod). Make sure the master cylinder isn't leaking any fluid at the rod. If you can jack up the car, get underneath and inspect the slave cylinder, sometimes these will start leaking and can cause pedal and engagement issues. Also what color is your clutch fluid? If it's a dark black, I would call it a day and just replace the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the soft line connected to the slave cylinder (assuming the Z is high mileage). The OEM parts are readily available and pretty cheap, all told should be less than $200.00. Bleeding the system is pretty straightforward, but is best/easiest done with two people. Replacing the parts is also simple and can be done with basic hand tools. Just take precautions to keep the clutch fluid from dripping onto any painted surfaces! If you're not comfortable with this, I would just take it to a shop.
Good Luck!
-Icer
You didn't notice this when you test drove it? I'm no Nissan expert "yet", but I would recommend you get it to either a Nissan dealership or a trusted shop to do a full diag. My 2 cents... Don't buy any car unless the seller agrees to a diag BEFORE you buy it. It's well worth the $120.
Also, if it's an 06 and you don't plan on dumping tons of money into it you should always baby it. This goes for pretty much any car...
The only proper solution to chips and deep scratches is new paint. No way around it...
Also, if it's an 06 and you don't plan on dumping tons of money into it you should always baby it. This goes for pretty much any car...
The only proper solution to chips and deep scratches is new paint. No way around it...
I also have an 06. My clutch stuck for years and I finally fixed it by replacing the master and slave cylinder and putting quality fluid in with a good bleed. For rattles, the first thing you should check is your exhaust. I doubt it is your transmission, but your dad brings up a good point. Make sure all your fluids are good / changed out when buying an older used car. If you cannot pinpoint the rattle to the exhaust, tearing down your hatch as someone else said might have to be your next option. Enjoy the car, 2006’s get no love but mine is great and burns no oil.
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