Still learning the 350Z for track duty - engine opinion (road course)
I'm still getting acquainted with the 350Z and slowly getting it ready for Barber. I'm doing some DD with it to work out the kinks and build some confidence. I am not new to engines or track duty, but I'm still not comfortable revving this engine - it feels like it is working too hard the closer I get to red line. My previous track car was a Focus SVT - that Cosworth 4 banger just LOVED to rev. It actually got smoother up to 7200 RPM; so smooth I'd hit the rev limiter because I didn't know I was at redline. I flogged it and it just sang. But the VG doesn't feel that way, at least to me. Maybe it's the CAI making noise, or maybe it's the Nismo exhaust, or all the urethane bushings, but it just doesn't sound/feel as happy as I'd like it to.
This car is my track-rat upgrade - I want red line to be a happy place. Tell me about this engine for road course HPDE use....... is it best to short shift regularly, or does this engine do just fine shifting at red line? Does yours sound and feel wonderful near red line, or not?
Car drive-train details: 2004 Enthusiast, 63K miles with previous track duty. Lots of urethane, Wilwood brakes, Nismo S tune suspension, Nismo exhaust, Nismo CAI, Hotchkiss anti-roll bars and adj control arms, Quaife LSD (noisy thing!) and grindy 5th gear (but hey, I'm learning to double-clutch!)
TIA
This car is my track-rat upgrade - I want red line to be a happy place. Tell me about this engine for road course HPDE use....... is it best to short shift regularly, or does this engine do just fine shifting at red line? Does yours sound and feel wonderful near red line, or not?
Car drive-train details: 2004 Enthusiast, 63K miles with previous track duty. Lots of urethane, Wilwood brakes, Nismo S tune suspension, Nismo exhaust, Nismo CAI, Hotchkiss anti-roll bars and adj control arms, Quaife LSD (noisy thing!) and grindy 5th gear (but hey, I'm learning to double-clutch!)
TIA
The motor was designed to go to redline. It will not hurt anything. I've been using my Z for HPDE now for three years. You can check out some of my later videos that have the RPM telemetry. I run it out to 7k all the time.
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10998322
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10998322
Thanks for the reply. So yours goes there regularly, that's great to know.
How does it "feel"? Do you have some comparisons? I am used to paying attention to the "feel", and sound, and I guess I'm just not used to this one. I hammer it on interstate on-ramps and it moves very well, but I'm still not sure the engine isn't yelling at me to let up.
It handles GREAT.....I really can't wait to track it.
How does it "feel"? Do you have some comparisons? I am used to paying attention to the "feel", and sound, and I guess I'm just not used to this one. I hammer it on interstate on-ramps and it moves very well, but I'm still not sure the engine isn't yelling at me to let up.
It handles GREAT.....I really can't wait to track it.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,624
Likes: 1,393
From: Aurora, Colorado
I'm still getting acquainted with the 350Z and slowly getting it ready for Barber. I'm doing some DD with it to work out the kinks and build some confidence. I am not new to engines or track duty, but I'm still not comfortable revving this engine - it feels like it is working too hard the closer I get to red line. My previous track car was a Focus SVT - that Cosworth 4 banger just LOVED to rev. It actually got smoother up to 7200 RPM; so smooth I'd hit the rev limiter because I didn't know I was at redline. I flogged it and it just sang. But the VG doesn't feel that way, at least to me. Maybe it's the CAI making noise, or maybe it's the Nismo exhaust, or all the urethane bushings, but it just doesn't sound/feel as happy as I'd like it to.
This car is my track-rat upgrade - I want red line to be a happy place. Tell me about this engine for road course HPDE use....... is it best to short shift regularly, or does this engine do just fine shifting at red line? Does yours sound and feel wonderful near red line, or not?
Car drive-train details: 2004 Enthusiast, 63K miles with previous track duty. Lots of urethane, Wilwood brakes, Nismo S tune suspension, Nismo exhaust, Nismo CAI, Hotchkiss anti-roll bars and adj control arms, Quaife LSD (noisy thing!) and grindy 5th gear (but hey, I'm learning to double-clutch!)
TIA
This car is my track-rat upgrade - I want red line to be a happy place. Tell me about this engine for road course HPDE use....... is it best to short shift regularly, or does this engine do just fine shifting at red line? Does yours sound and feel wonderful near red line, or not?
Car drive-train details: 2004 Enthusiast, 63K miles with previous track duty. Lots of urethane, Wilwood brakes, Nismo S tune suspension, Nismo exhaust, Nismo CAI, Hotchkiss anti-roll bars and adj control arms, Quaife LSD (noisy thing!) and grindy 5th gear (but hey, I'm learning to double-clutch!)
TIA
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I understand what the OP is saying. my revup just doesnt seem "happy " over 5K..
my miata loves to rev.. my STI loves 6-7K..
This thing seems upset you are asking it to spin that high.
but I do it anyway.
my miata loves to rev.. my STI loves 6-7K..
This thing seems upset you are asking it to spin that high.
but I do it anyway.
i've done 5 events this year on my Z which has now 152k miles on it. sounds beautiful on track and yes i keep it around 5-6k on the track since you will get a lot more power in the upper RPM bands. There are some tracks where i'm coming down near the end of the straight and I'm at redline since i don't want to shift up then down right away. the car gets abused. just make sure you check fluids each time you go out especially coolant with you being down south.
i've done 5 events this year on my Z which has now 152k miles on it. sounds beautiful on track and yes i keep it around 5-6k on the track since you will get a lot more power in the upper RPM bands. There are some tracks where i'm coming down near the end of the straight and I'm at redline since i don't want to shift up then down right away. the car gets abused. just make sure you check fluids each time you go out especially coolant with you being down south.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 8,624
Likes: 1,393
From: Aurora, Colorado
It depends on the length of the sessions. If the sessions are 20 minutes or less, no oil cooler is required with adequate cool- down time. But if you're pushing the Z hard for more than that, an oil cooler is recommended.
I added a 19 row cooler, thero-plate and oil temp gauge.
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10940812
FYI. I bought an ebay special and it works fine.
The only thing I had to do is use an oil filter oring on the thermo plate. THe oring it comes with isn't thick enough and I was leaking oil at the joint.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gplus-19-RO...0AAOSwRnpc3N4X
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10940812
FYI. I bought an ebay special and it works fine.
The only thing I had to do is use an oil filter oring on the thermo plate. THe oring it comes with isn't thick enough and I was leaking oil at the joint.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gplus-19-RO...0AAOSwRnpc3N4X
Last edited by Franknbeans; Aug 21, 2019 at 04:53 AM.
So the oil cooler adapter threads for the 350Z are 3/4-16? I think that's the same as my previous track car so mine should bolt up. Still have to find a place for it..............
Same path here, bought my Z after a year of having my SVTF. Took a bit to learn how to use the torque to my advantage, power drops after 6500 and most times it not needed to endlessly rev, grab the next gear and go.
I added a 19 row cooler, thero-plate and oil temp gauge.
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10940812
FYI. I bought an ebay special and it works fine.
The only thing I had to do is use an oil filter oring on the thermo plate. THe oring it comes with isn't thick enough and I was leaking oil at the joint.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gplus-19-RO...0AAOSwRnpc3N4X
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10940812
FYI. I bought an ebay special and it works fine.
The only thing I had to do is use an oil filter oring on the thermo plate. THe oring it comes with isn't thick enough and I was leaking oil at the joint.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gplus-19-RO...0AAOSwRnpc3N4X
With an intake and exhaust, you'll be around 240 - 245 whp. The stock DE manifold will make peak power at 6000 rpm, and then drop off at 6300. So that's why it feels "winded" when you rev past that. There's a few options we can explore here. Most common is stock DE manifold with a plenum spacer. Your peak whp / wtq will be higher, and still drop off after 6300, but it definitely wakes the car up some. You can do what I did, and pair the revup lower plenum to a plenum spacer, and hold power all across the upper rpm range. My cammed DE made 300 whp at 6000 rpm, and held it to 7500 rpm. You can also just replace the intake manifold altogether - the Kinetix Velocity has shorter runners than the DE lower plenum, so you'll make better power up top.
You can also install high flow cats or test pipes, and get a retune. If you go my recommended route of revup plenum, plenum spacer (5/16" will do it), and Z1 high flow cats, you should make make power, around 260 whp, but it wouldn't be dropping off after 6300.
On an aside, you definitely need an oil cooler for extended sessions down south - I overheated at Road Atlanta a couple months back, and wrecked the bottom end. We're swapping in a used G35 engine, but I plan on keeping the heads/cams package. Here's my dyno video / sheet for reference, and feel free to ask any questions on it. Volume warning for headset users
You can also install high flow cats or test pipes, and get a retune. If you go my recommended route of revup plenum, plenum spacer (5/16" will do it), and Z1 high flow cats, you should make make power, around 260 whp, but it wouldn't be dropping off after 6300.
On an aside, you definitely need an oil cooler for extended sessions down south - I overheated at Road Atlanta a couple months back, and wrecked the bottom end. We're swapping in a used G35 engine, but I plan on keeping the heads/cams package. Here's my dyno video / sheet for reference, and feel free to ask any questions on it. Volume warning for headset users
Last edited by jellofuel; Aug 22, 2019 at 09:02 AM. Reason: warning for headset users
With an intake and exhaust, you'll be around 240 - 245 whp. The stock DE manifold will make peak power at 6000 rpm, and then drop off at 6300. So that's why it feels "winded" when you rev past that. There's a few options we can explore here. Most common is stock DE manifold with a plenum spacer. Your peak whp / wtq will be higher, and still drop off after 6300, but it definitely wakes the car up some. You can do what I did, and pair the revup lower plenum to a plenum spacer, and hold power all across the upper rpm range. My cammed DE made 300 whp at 6000 rpm, and held it to 7500 rpm. You can also just replace the intake manifold altogether - the Kinetix Velocity has shorter runners than the DE lower plenum, so you'll make better power up top.
You can also install high flow cats or test pipes, and get a retune. If you go my recommended route of revup plenum, plenum spacer (5/16" will do it), and Z1 high flow cats, you should make make power, around 260 whp, but it wouldn't be dropping off after 6300.
On an aside, you definitely need an oil cooler for extended sessions down south - I overheated at Road Atlanta a couple months back, and wrecked the bottom end. We're swapping in a used G35 engine, but I plan on keeping the heads/cams package. Here's my dyno video / sheet for reference, and feel free to ask any questions on it. Volume warning for headset users https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfqn0MWgOKk
You can also install high flow cats or test pipes, and get a retune. If you go my recommended route of revup plenum, plenum spacer (5/16" will do it), and Z1 high flow cats, you should make make power, around 260 whp, but it wouldn't be dropping off after 6300.
On an aside, you definitely need an oil cooler for extended sessions down south - I overheated at Road Atlanta a couple months back, and wrecked the bottom end. We're swapping in a used G35 engine, but I plan on keeping the heads/cams package. Here's my dyno video / sheet for reference, and feel free to ask any questions on it. Volume warning for headset users https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfqn0MWgOKk
So has anyone found a convenient place for an oil cooler besides in front of the AC condenser?
Thanks for info. I'm fine with my power for now, considering I was used to just 180HP. And I understand the feeling of the engine being out of breath, but being new to the VQ it was also the noise (Nismo Exhaust? CAI?) and vibration. All that makes me think it is struggling.
So has anyone found a convenient place for an oil cooler besides in front of the AC condenser?
So has anyone found a convenient place for an oil cooler besides in front of the AC condenser?









