Options for more power?
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Options for more power?
Hi everyone,
I'm wanting to get more power out on my 350, I was wondering what everyone's opinion on this was, options being,
Supercharger/turbo?
Engine swap?
Faster car?
Just intrigued on everyone's thoughts as I have heard people say the Z platforms isn't exactly 'mod friendly', which I'm not sure I agree with
I'm wanting to get more power out on my 350, I was wondering what everyone's opinion on this was, options being,
Supercharger/turbo?
Engine swap?
Faster car?
Just intrigued on everyone's thoughts as I have heard people say the Z platforms isn't exactly 'mod friendly', which I'm not sure I agree with
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Hahahaha, I'm just exploring the options, I have a some decent funds spare after just buying my first house and have added a lot of things to the to do list for the car with it.
I have ordered body kit, recently done the clutch pedal, induction kit etc... so looking for the best and most efficient way to now make more power as I will be able to put more money into the car now I'm settled with the house
I have ordered body kit, recently done the clutch pedal, induction kit etc... so looking for the best and most efficient way to now make more power as I will be able to put more money into the car now I'm settled with the house
#4
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
lets start there
how much money do you want to spend?
how much money do you want to spend?
#6
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Dec - I'm gonna tell you thats the wrong answer but I wont jump all over you. You want to spend the right amount of money needed to have a reliable, well-performing, nice, respectable ride.
Dont think cheap / think value
in USD and whp here's a very rudametric menu to wet your appetite...
300-320hp (naturally aspirated) - $5k
300-425hp (FI) - $5k to $10k
425-600hp (FI) - $15k to $25k
600-800hp (FI) - $15k to $40k
800-1100hp (FI) - $30k to $100k
Dont think cheap / think value
in USD and whp here's a very rudametric menu to wet your appetite...
300-320hp (naturally aspirated) - $5k
300-425hp (FI) - $5k to $10k
425-600hp (FI) - $15k to $25k
600-800hp (FI) - $15k to $40k
800-1100hp (FI) - $30k to $100k
#7
General & Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Hahahaha, I'm just exploring the options, I have a some decent funds spare after just buying my first house and have added a lot of things to the to do list for the car with it.
I have ordered body kit, recently done the clutch pedal, induction kit etc... so looking for the best and most efficient way to now make more power as I will be able to put more money into the car now I'm settled with the house
I have ordered body kit, recently done the clutch pedal, induction kit etc... so looking for the best and most efficient way to now make more power as I will be able to put more money into the car now I'm settled with the house
Last edited by jhc; 09-22-2019 at 06:34 PM.
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#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys that makes sense, I didn't know how trustworthy second hand kits were and I do daily drive my car too, so let's say my goals were around 425whp, what would be the suggested way to go.
To me a supercharger may seem best for daily driving but TT for the fun factor, I have driven a gtr and did like the TT, however I have never driven a supercharged car, would that be possible around the 5-7k budget in the UK
And I appreciate not being jumped on, I think some people expect you to know everything but I'm not going to lie, I'm just 20, and no one in my family cares about cars so I'm starting off my own back, and this will be the first car I really do want to mod as I had a GT86 and sold it because it felt a little too expensive and new to then be rebuilding half the engine.
To me a supercharger may seem best for daily driving but TT for the fun factor, I have driven a gtr and did like the TT, however I have never driven a supercharged car, would that be possible around the 5-7k budget in the UK
And I appreciate not being jumped on, I think some people expect you to know everything but I'm not going to lie, I'm just 20, and no one in my family cares about cars so I'm starting off my own back, and this will be the first car I really do want to mod as I had a GT86 and sold it because it felt a little too expensive and new to then be rebuilding half the engine.
Last edited by decrobinson1999; 09-22-2019 at 10:41 PM.
#9
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
figure out if you want ever ever ever want more than 425hp for the car.
If you think you may build the engine and push harder than 425hp than go turbo. If you think 425hp will be the top end for this car and there is zero chance of ever going higher than go supercharger. If youre not sure than go turbo.
I would tell you to go single turbo over twin turbo as a single front mount or single mid mount will be easier to install and service (and it will need service at some point).
you'll need a turbo kit, it's ok to go used but have the turbo rebuilt or replaced before you install it ($3000),
you'll need something to tune with, such as haltech, link, aem, or uprev($500 for uprev, $1500 for link, $2500 for haltech, $3000 for aem). I believe Link has a good presence in Europe and I'd tell you that the G4+ for $1500 is the best bet of standalone ECUs. Add another $500 to $1000 for dyno tuning.
You'll want to add things like gauges, an oil cooler, dampening crank pulley, possibly intake/exhaust upgrades ... this can range from a $500 to $2000
I'm sure Im missing some stuff ... but that's a start
read what other guys have done on their builds to get an idea of what works and what doesnt.
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
figure out if you want ever ever ever want more than 425hp for the car.
If you think you may build the engine and push harder than 425hp than go turbo. If you think 425hp will be the top end for this car and there is zero chance of ever going higher than go supercharger. If youre not sure than go turbo.
I would tell you to go single turbo over twin turbo as a single front mount or single mid mount will be easier to install and service (and it will need service at some point).
you'll need a turbo kit, it's ok to go used but have the turbo rebuilt or replaced before you install it ($3000),
you'll need something to tune with, such as haltech, link, aem, or uprev($500 for uprev, $1500 for link, $2500 for haltech, $3000 for aem). I believe Link has a good presence in Europe and I'd tell you that the G4+ for $1500 is the best bet of standalone ECUs. Add another $500 to $1000 for dyno tuning.
You'll want to add things like gauges, an oil cooler, dampening crank pulley, possibly intake/exhaust upgrades ... this can range from a $500 to $2000
I'm sure Im missing some stuff ... but that's a start
read what other guys have done on their builds to get an idea of what works and what doesnt.
If you think you may build the engine and push harder than 425hp than go turbo. If you think 425hp will be the top end for this car and there is zero chance of ever going higher than go supercharger. If youre not sure than go turbo.
I would tell you to go single turbo over twin turbo as a single front mount or single mid mount will be easier to install and service (and it will need service at some point).
you'll need a turbo kit, it's ok to go used but have the turbo rebuilt or replaced before you install it ($3000),
you'll need something to tune with, such as haltech, link, aem, or uprev($500 for uprev, $1500 for link, $2500 for haltech, $3000 for aem). I believe Link has a good presence in Europe and I'd tell you that the G4+ for $1500 is the best bet of standalone ECUs. Add another $500 to $1000 for dyno tuning.
You'll want to add things like gauges, an oil cooler, dampening crank pulley, possibly intake/exhaust upgrades ... this can range from a $500 to $2000
I'm sure Im missing some stuff ... but that's a start
read what other guys have done on their builds to get an idea of what works and what doesnt.
Also would it be better to upgrade to a HR 350/370 or will the DE Revup hold up just as well? i have heard good and bad things about both
Last edited by decrobinson1999; 09-23-2019 at 02:34 AM.
#11
New Member
"Fast and reliable aren't cheap, cheap and reliable aren't fast, fast and cheap aren't reliable"
Remember that no matter which route you go. Don't cut corners or you'll be standing on the corner with an expensive repair bill.
Remember that no matter which route you go. Don't cut corners or you'll be standing on the corner with an expensive repair bill.
#12
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
One thing missing in this discussion is that the VQ was never originally designed or built to accommodate FI. Any of the three VQ versions run well in NA trim, but it's a different matter when FI is introduced. The OP has already said he didn't want to rebuild the engine in his last car, but that's exactly what will need to happen if he wants a reliable FI engine in his Z33. No need to go into specifics, as there's plenty of threads on here about what it takes to build a VQ shortblock. Bealljk has already posted how much the cost will be to get into the 425-hp range and that $15-25K figure may be understated when you consider the OP is from the UK.
Finally, any Z owner putting that many dollars (or pounds, etc) into their car should check with their insurance broker about increasing their policy to account for increased value. That means higher premiums, as well as careful accounting to demonstrate how much you've spent. But without all that, you're one uninsured motorist accident away from losing a boatload of money.
Finally, any Z owner putting that many dollars (or pounds, etc) into their car should check with their insurance broker about increasing their policy to account for increased value. That means higher premiums, as well as careful accounting to demonstrate how much you've spent. But without all that, you're one uninsured motorist accident away from losing a boatload of money.
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#13
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
you've got a Rev-Up? ehhhhhhhhh … I'd find a DE to turbo and/or play with...I wouldn't modify a Rev-up any condition...oil issues and exhaust cam timing mechanism can ruin your weekend pretty quick.
I don't disagree with you DK and you know the chassis and it's history better than I do but just about any NA engine is going to benefit from adding 'some' FI...In my argument above I'm talking about 6-8psi of boost.
6-8psi puts you at 400hp on an engine that was designed to handle 450 for a decent amount of time/mileage.
Is there a counter argument to why the VQDE is better off NA (regardless of power level output)?
6-8psi puts you at 400hp on an engine that was designed to handle 450 for a decent amount of time/mileage.
Is there a counter argument to why the VQDE is better off NA (regardless of power level output)?
#14
you've got a Rev-Up? ehhhhhhhhh … I'd find a DE to turbo and/or play with...I wouldn't modify a Rev-up any condition...oil issues and exhaust cam timing mechanism can ruin your weekend pretty quick.
I don't disagree with you DK and you know the chassis and it's history better than I do but just about any NA engine is going to benefit from adding 'some' FI...In my argument above I'm talking about 6-8psi of boost.
6-8psi puts you at 400hp on an engine that was designed to handle 450 for a decent amount of time/mileage.
Is there a counter argument to why the VQDE is better off NA (regardless of power level output)?
I don't disagree with you DK and you know the chassis and it's history better than I do but just about any NA engine is going to benefit from adding 'some' FI...In my argument above I'm talking about 6-8psi of boost.
6-8psi puts you at 400hp on an engine that was designed to handle 450 for a decent amount of time/mileage.
Is there a counter argument to why the VQDE is better off NA (regardless of power level output)?
That being said, the procharger kit is at least 5k here in the states. With the right injectors, fuel upgrade and proper tuning the figure is probably close to 9k to be just over 400whp when done.
If it had not been for the deal I got with this car I would have turbo'd!
Last edited by Enriquez2000; 09-23-2019 at 04:27 PM.
#15
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
#16
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
My point is that most, if not all, Z owners don't understand how to properly use the 245-280 WHP they already have in their DE or HR engines in the first place. Spend some of that hard-earned money on a high-performance driving school and learn to have some fun. Spend some additional money on suspension mods and stuff you'll use everyday. I hope my VQ will last a quarter million miles with the right maintenance and care, but that won't happen if it gets boosted. The additional heat and weight of a turbo also degrades the overall balance of the Z33, and that's another downside to consider.
The following 5 users liked this post by dkmura:
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#17
Understood- but even a modest amount of boost, puts additional stress on an engine never engineered to handle it long-term. As you say, a modest amount of boost (6-8psi) might get you towards 400 HP, but the OP has already stated he wants 425 and we both know that's a different build. To do it right, a built shortblock, reworked heads, bigger intercooler, etc. that keeps adding expense to the equation.
If you want 425whp, youre talking somewhere around 10psi(depending on altitude)... youre going to need alot of work to run that for any length of time. I think the block will handle it but tune would need to be spot on.
Plus we can all vouch for the loss of wow over time. 425 will be boring after a while... i started with one of my cars at 447(fully built).. its now 800plus.
If youre gonna boost it do it right!
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dkmura (09-24-2019)
#18
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Well it depends, ideally the least amount of money for the return, I have seen second hand TT and SC kits for 2250 GBP
Should read a lot more before diving into a used turbo kit. If you go in with the mentality of "least amount of money," you better know what you are doing.
#19
New Member
If you're mechanically inclined, motor swap it. Drop in an LS + T56 or 2JZ + CD009 for low teens and the car will live a long, high horsepower life. A 500whp NA LS will live forever if you maintain it. Same goes for a turbo 2JZ, plus much higher power. I'm not sure how viable either of these options would be in the UK.
It wasn't mentioned what the car will be used for, but if you're building a drag car, either option above would work well. If it is a track / canyon car, I would (and have for my car) put money into suspension and brakes while leaning to really drive the car to the edge before getting into big power gains. Sure I've been on tracks where I could use more power in the straights, but going through turns the Z works well with its stock power.
It wasn't mentioned what the car will be used for, but if you're building a drag car, either option above would work well. If it is a track / canyon car, I would (and have for my car) put money into suspension and brakes while leaning to really drive the car to the edge before getting into big power gains. Sure I've been on tracks where I could use more power in the straights, but going through turns the Z works well with its stock power.
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bad boyz (09-27-2019)
#20
If you're mechanically inclined, motor swap it. Drop in an LS + T56 or 2JZ + CD009 for low teens and the car will live a long, high horsepower life. A 500whp NA LS will live forever if you maintain it. Same goes for a turbo 2JZ, plus much higher power. I'm not sure how viable either of these options would be in the UK.
It wasn't mentioned what the car will be used for, but if you're building a drag car, either option above would work well. If it is a track / canyon car, I would (and have for my car) put money into suspension and brakes while leaning to really drive the car to the edge before getting into big power gains. Sure I've been on tracks where I could use more power in the straights, but going through turns the Z works well with its stock power.
It wasn't mentioned what the car will be used for, but if you're building a drag car, either option above would work well. If it is a track / canyon car, I would (and have for my car) put money into suspension and brakes while leaning to really drive the car to the edge before getting into big power gains. Sure I've been on tracks where I could use more power in the straights, but going through turns the Z works well with its stock power.
OP... basically to do what you want in general, your low end is 10k USD into the car... more to do it proper.