ugh P0011 error on 2005 350z Enthusiast keeps coming back
10-08-2019, 01:08 PM
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(FIXED) ugh P0011 error on 2005 350z Enthusiast keeps coming back
so research states the following
Here is some history and some diagnostics
several weeks(maybe months) ago the car threw a code for camshaft sensor malfunction and it literally shut the engine off whilst in stop/go traffic....took a while to get it started again.
Replaced the passenger side camshaft sensor and that stopped the halting of the car and all seemed good. BUT then I got another code of p0011, but with no car performance issues
being lazy I just did the basics after reading some common causes stated above.
1 - replaced the VVT solenoid - passenger
2 - got a new oil change and filter
so over the course of several weeks now, this damn code pops up , I clear it and comes back...etc
The code appears 90% of the time when I'm going down a length a road at 2,000 rpm.
Took it to the mechanic and he diagnosed as the passenger vvt again. He used a scanner that read the timing in real time and he said the "return to normal timing was sluggish". So we replaced the passenger VVT with yet another . I'll be damned if the light didn't come back a day later (yesterday).
I am highly suspect that the 3 VVTs (2 of which were brand new) were faulty. I have read that I need to do the Exhaust Valve Timing Relearn, tried to get my mechanic to do that, but he says there is no such thing....not so sure about that, as I've seen many threads discussing that procedure.....going to try the dealership for the re-learn process
so of this list, I'll scratch out the things I know is not the issue
Anyway looking at the PID at idle, the degrees BTDC is 16 and whilst going it is as high as 41 degrees...one time I saw it shoot up to 41 on a deceleration, which seemed super odd to me, but this is not a professional tool so suspect of the refresh rate.
any help in resolving this issue would be great.
UPDATE: 10/23/2019 I think it is fixed. Replacing the passenger side cam shaft sensor (that was replaced with an Intermotor Branded one) with an OEM sensor seems to have done the trick...not throwing the code anymore (so far).. Most likely the VVTs that were replaced didn't need to be :-(
P0011 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1
P0011 NISSAN Possible Causes
- Low or Dirty Engine Oil
- Faulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve
- Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve harness is open or shorted
- Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS)
Here is some history and some diagnostics
several weeks(maybe months) ago the car threw a code for camshaft sensor malfunction and it literally shut the engine off whilst in stop/go traffic....took a while to get it started again.
Replaced the passenger side camshaft sensor and that stopped the halting of the car and all seemed good. BUT then I got another code of p0011, but with no car performance issues
being lazy I just did the basics after reading some common causes stated above.
1 - replaced the VVT solenoid - passenger
2 - got a new oil change and filter
so over the course of several weeks now, this damn code pops up , I clear it and comes back...etc
The code appears 90% of the time when I'm going down a length a road at 2,000 rpm.
Took it to the mechanic and he diagnosed as the passenger vvt again. He used a scanner that read the timing in real time and he said the "return to normal timing was sluggish". So we replaced the passenger VVT with yet another . I'll be damned if the light didn't come back a day later (yesterday).
I am highly suspect that the 3 VVTs (2 of which were brand new) were faulty. I have read that I need to do the Exhaust Valve Timing Relearn, tried to get my mechanic to do that, but he says there is no such thing....not so sure about that, as I've seen many threads discussing that procedure.....going to try the dealership for the re-learn process
so of this list, I'll scratch out the things I know is not the issue
Low or Dirty Engine OilFaulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid ValveIntake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve harness is open or shortedIntake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (could be, but that is brand new)
Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shortedCamshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection- Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS) (could be)
Anyway looking at the PID at idle, the degrees BTDC is 16 and whilst going it is as high as 41 degrees...one time I saw it shoot up to 41 on a deceleration, which seemed super odd to me, but this is not a professional tool so suspect of the refresh rate.
any help in resolving this issue would be great.
UPDATE: 10/23/2019 I think it is fixed. Replacing the passenger side cam shaft sensor (that was replaced with an Intermotor Branded one) with an OEM sensor seems to have done the trick...not throwing the code anymore (so far).. Most likely the VVTs that were replaced didn't need to be :-(
Last edited by CFAUVEL; 10-23-2019 at 07:13 AM. Reason: wanted to report that the issue wass fixed
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CFAUVEL (10-23-2019)
10-08-2019, 04:11 PM
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10-09-2019, 06:24 AM
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Drove it to work today and decelerating from 2,000 to about 1,500 rpm (coasting with slight brake) the CEL came back on....cleared it and it didn't come back on for the remainder of the drive...but the rest of the way is highway speeds.
10-09-2019, 12:30 PM
#6
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Might not hurt to clean your crankshaft sensor. When i did my engine swap with new driveline components my sensor was very dirty with clutch material. Could cause interference due to metallic content. Should only take a few minutes to do once the car is in the air. Recommend using brake or electrical contact cleaner. Latter being better.
10-10-2019, 04:33 AM
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UPDATE: Car off for 8 hrs, commute home no problems, and lots of stop/go traffic. Got home left car off for 15 minutes changed for the gym, car was off for 1 hr. With a 5 minute drive back home, CEL came on after a few seconds of gliding to a stop at a light from about 2000 rpm.
Starting to see a pattern....engine relatively cool, a period of driving steady at about 2000 rpm, then decelerating. Does that speak to someone?
The commute home I don't drive at a steady speed it ranges from hard throttle to steady of 3000 rpm for the first 10 miles , until the traffic makes us stop/go for 5 miles, then 75mph for 40 miles then 50 mph for about 10 until home.
Starting to see a pattern....engine relatively cool, a period of driving steady at about 2000 rpm, then decelerating. Does that speak to someone?
The commute home I don't drive at a steady speed it ranges from hard throttle to steady of 3000 rpm for the first 10 miles , until the traffic makes us stop/go for 5 miles, then 75mph for 40 miles then 50 mph for about 10 until home.
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10-14-2019, 05:51 AM
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Update: 10/10/2019 ugh the "pattern" is not consistent. I came home, let the car sit for 10 minutes whilst I changed to go to gym, went to gym, let car sit for an hour (no CEL), came home with the same route that would normally get me the CEL (rpm 2000), but no CEL. Car sat for another 10 minutes until I had to go to the super market, on the way there no CEL, but on the way back CEL came back on a deceleration for a stop light....so the pattern of it happening on deceleration is true, but car being cold to cooler is not true.
On Saturday 10/12/2019 I got my OEM cam shaft sensors in , replaced the passenger side sensor as that was the one I replaced from a couple of months ago. Haven't driven the car since then so no updates on the CEL.
On Saturday 10/12/2019 I got my OEM cam shaft sensors in , replaced the passenger side sensor as that was the one I replaced from a couple of months ago. Haven't driven the car since then so no updates on the CEL.
10-21-2019, 05:26 PM
#9
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Update 10/21/2019 - haven't been driving it much, BUT so far I've done SEVERAL runs on that road where I go 2000 rpm and the light hasn't come back on yet...I'm crossing my finger that the new OEM cam shaft sensor has done the trick.
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rustyschopshop (10-21-2019)
10-23-2019, 07:16 AM
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UPDATE: 10/23/2019 I think it is fixed. Replacing the passenger side cam shaft sensor (that was replaced with an Intermotor Branded one) with an OEM sensor seems to have done the trick...not throwing the code anymore (so far).. Most likely the VVTs that were replaced didn't need to be :-(
Drove several times at 2000 rpms then slowed(stopped) for redlights or traffic and no CEL.
Calling this one fixed.
Drove several times at 2000 rpms then slowed(stopped) for redlights or traffic and no CEL.
Calling this one fixed.
10-23-2019, 08:21 AM
#11
New Member
UPDATE: 10/23/2019 I think it is fixed. Replacing the passenger side cam shaft sensor (that was replaced with an Intermotor Branded one) with an OEM sensor seems to have done the trick...not throwing the code anymore (so far).. Most likely the VVTs that were replaced didn't need to be :-(
Drove several times at 2000 rpms then slowed(stopped) for redlights or traffic and no CEL.
Calling this one fixed.
Drove several times at 2000 rpms then slowed(stopped) for redlights or traffic and no CEL.
Calling this one fixed.
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CFAUVEL (10-23-2019)
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