Rajtastic

***UPDATE***
Call Nissan and trust their part number. I installed the 25567-ET025 fine without issues but found it doesn't connect to the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) (the hole is too big). Everything else works fine but if you turn the wheel without the SAS turning then traction control goes haywire and the car will brake (it thinks you're massively spinning out) . It's very dangerous to have the wrong clock-spring in your car. Nissan told me to get the "B5567-CF42E" for my car as it has a SAS in it. If I'd bought this first time, I would have saved weeks of pain.

Note : GT model of 350z has a traction control whereas the base models don't (apparently). So, if you have a GT, you'll get a clock spring with a smaller hole which plugs into the SAS

Shout out to Adrian @ Torqen (UK 350z specialist) who sourced the parts for me. Great service and highly recommended.

***ORIGINAL***
Hi guys,
Wondering if anyone has changed their clock spring to try and fix the air bag light issue (fairly sure it's this as my 'volume up' and 'seek up' buttons have died on my wheel).

Torqen say the part number I should use is "25567-ET025". However, when I call Glynn Hopkins they haven't heard of it and ask say they'll buy in "B5567-CF42E".

Does anyone know the difference/which is the right one?

Here is my VIN if it helps : JN1GAAZ33U0302132
('06 RevUp DE)

Thanks,

Roshan

813_350Z

25567-ET025

You can get one OEM from courtesyparts for 168 plus shipping

Rajtastic

Thanks a lot. You don't know what this "B5567-CF42E" which Nissan seem to refer to in the UK is do you? Torqen told me 25567-ET025 would be 100% correct so that's good that you think the same too.

813_350Z

A Google search for "Nissan Part Number B5567-CF42E" did show clock springs in the results. One website that pulled up showed that it would not fit an 2006 350z, however.


Out of curiosity though, what trim do you have (Enthusiast, Touring, etc). The only thing I could think of is that with you being in the UK, and having what I would assume was a UK model, that there is something different about it. I will admit that I am not knowledgable when it comes with the on-board circuitry differences of 350zs that were made and driven strictly in the UK, Japan, etc.

The only other difference may be if there are different part numbers for different trims. For example, the base model would not need connections for cruise control since it does not have it and would therefore have a different part number than a CS for an Enthusiast trim which does have CC. I can't recall if it makes all that much of a difference though.

I'm going to throw your trim into CourtesyParts and see if the same part number still comes up. I just threw the Enthusiast trim in the search option to see if it came back with one of the two numbers you originally posted.

Rajtastic

Thanks Hunter,

In the UK we only have standard or GT (mine is a GT - 2006 RevUp DE)

When I put in my car number Nissan Parts Deal comes up with a match on 25567-ET025:

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...del=&Filter=()


As does Courtesy Parts:

So, everything online seems to point towards the 25567-ET025!

813_350Z

Excellent! Looks like you have your winner!

CFAUVEL

replacing my clock spring on my 2005 fixed the SRS light issue. On my enthusiast the spring didn't have the added SAS(steering angle sensor) gizmoe that I saw in the youtube videos that you may need to transfer.

I think that comes into play if you have the VCS button on the lower left of your dash...I don't ...I have TCS...it also plays into the center airbag deployment if I recall right..

Just be sure to keep your wheels pointed straight, your steering wheel being in correct when you start dismantling it....there are indicators on both the wheel and shaft to align it back up.....even with those I managed to get off by one tooth which cocked the wheel about 10 degrees....had to do the job twice.

813_350Z

IIRC, the only Zs that have the VDC are manuals. The VDC works off the Yaw sensor, which automatic Zs don't have.

The clock spring should fix your airbag issue if, of course, there's no other faults. As mentioned, keep the wheel aligned, but another important thing to note is DO NOT LET THE SPRING ROTATE! I believe it comes taped down and letting it spin, even if you have the wheel perfectly aligned, will cause all sorts of lights to come on because the computer will read the vehicle as going in a direction other than straight

CFAUVEL

(813) What does IIRC stand for? (ok boomer time)

indeed the clock spring will come with a clip that keeps things aligned.....

OP DO NOT remove this clip until the very end of the job when you have NO CHOICE but to do so to get the spring in the right spot and button everything up....you'll know when to pull the clip.

813_350Z

If I remember correctly / if I recall correctly

Lol

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

I don't know how bad shipping would be but I do have a brand new one I could sell to you, if interested PM me.

Rajtastic

Thanks a lot everyone for the advice!

Rajtastic

Changed the clock spring and still flashing after reset (long light followed by 2 short flashes indicates driver airbag module issue according to codes).

Anyone got any suggestions? I changed it well (no twisting at all of clock spring) *except* for I accidentally trapped the airbag connectors under the wheel when I retorqued it to 35nm. However, their looked to be space for it to run a bit so I don't think it affected it and the cables are super chunky and seemed to fare OK and they're in the proper place now.

Checked the yellow connector plugs under *both* seats (unplugged 5 times then silicon greased sprayed them too) and they were very solid.

My next thought is to take it apart again and check continuity in the airbag cables in the clock spring to make sure they didn't get broken.

Anyone else got any ideas?

First I'm taking it to my local garage and asking it to run diagnostic on it in the hope of a miracle that the code just hadn't been cleared and they can clear it.

(yes, I've tried the user reset ignition as per the SRS manual - it goes from flashing to the diagnostic codes, which apparently it only does if there's still an error).

Losing sleep over this!

CFAUVEL

re-try the user reset of the SRS light....there is a video on youtube that I followed....if remember correctly it took a while to do it right.

Is that code (1 long 2 short = 12) the same as before?

Rajtastic

Hi CFAUVEL,

Yeah, same code as before. I've decided to take it apart again and I've found a way to check the continuity with my multimeter without taking apart the air bag plugs. If I see bad continuity then I know I mashed the cables up accidentally upon steering wheel install and will prob need to buy another Clock Spring.

My garage has also kindly offered to use their proper scanner thing on it too. I doubt it'll be possible to 'clear' a code on there as the Nissan SRS manuals says this has to be done via the self-diagnostic you mention (it should just clear the code instead of going into diagnostic mode).

If I get good continuity then I guess it'll have to be issues under the connections in the seat looms...

Rajtastic

Okay, so probably some good learnings for future forum members having the same issues. Here's what I did to debug:

- Firstly, my garage are v friendly so pulled the actual air bag error code for me - it was this one (FYI you can't clear it in any other way than self-diagnostic ignition method (www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5UQIF3Euu0)*):


It was B1052 which confirms an issue with the driver air bag. I should focus there probably.

*BTW this procedure is exactly documented in the Nissan SRS manual - it's:
- turn on the ignition until air bag light disappears then turn it off immediately (i.e. before it flashes on again)
- wait at least 3 seconds
- repeat 2 more times
- Turn on the ignition

- I took my old clock spring and used a multi-meter to test whether the continuity was blown between the airbag plug connections (both the orange + yellow ones)
- I found that only 1 of the 4 prongs (2 on yellow, two on orange) was outputting to one of the pins on the opposite side of the clock spring (after all, if the airbag connector doesn't go through the clock spring - its not doing its job)
- I then took out the newly installed clock spring to check I hadn't broken it (using the Nissan plastic clip** which came with it to fix the clock spring in place)
- I then stuck a tiny screwdriver into the new clock spring air bag connections (all 4 on the yellow + orange connectors) one at a time and then tested to see if the signal went through to any of the pins
- I also noted which pins the yellow connector went through to and which ones the orange ones went to (my air bag only has two pins on it so I was curious to see whether for some reason had a clock spring routing the air bag through to the wrong pins). Here is the result:

**I agree with the principal of never use winding the clockspring - fully left, fully right and then half way - to calculate the centre point. It comes already in the middle with a plastic fitting to hold it in place until you fit it. Winding it seems to tempt fate of stretching the cables so I don't see the value




- All four of the pins routed through correctly so I knew there was no problem with my clock spring
- I then went to the car and noted down what the air bag cable in the car going into the clock spring (not between the clock spring and the air bag - from the car to the clock spring, i.e. to air bag module which tells the car if there's an issue or not) was doing, i.e. which pins on the clock spring was that yellow car-side plug using? As you can see in the picture above (top-right) the car plug was using the same pins as the yellow air bag connector was routing through to. This way, I knew that I had the right clock spring and that the yellow air bag connector is definitely the one to go through to the air bag (I know its all colour coded in yellow so it shouldn't be the orange one - but it's nice to confirm exactly what's going on)

Next:

- Now I know the clock spring is routing correctly, I bought an air bag resistor from eBay to just see whether plugging that into the clock spring instead of the air bag would work (I wasn't expecting much but if it did work - it points to a problem with the air bag itself):



- I reconnected everything except for the air bag (inc the electrics) and switched to user-diagnostic mode (using the the self-diagnostic mode). If there was still an issue, it'd show me the error code (1 long + 2 shorts - i.e. driver air bag module issue).
- Hey presto - code cleared!
- Next, I thought it must be the air bag so a £60 second-hand one should do the trick. But first, I got the air bag out again just to check it over.
- I noticed that the black click'y bit on the connector plug was still sticking out
- I disconnected the air bag connector and tried to push that bit in - wouldn't budge
- So, I thought I'll just reconnect it and push it in hard - boom...it clicked in!

After that, reconnected everything and tried self-diagnostic mode again and it's cleared!

I thought I'd share that as a nice way to logically try and solve issues.

Next up...the traction control is totally hay-wire (even though I know the wheel/clock spring is definitely aligned correctly. Turns out that the bit you take off the old clock spring and reattach to the new one is the steering wheel angle sensor:



Definitely don't want to be buying another one of those! I was sure I reconnected it correctly but I reckon I must have done something stupid so back to re-opening the whole thing to check it's all connected properly! I do have 2 screws left over from the job and they definitely should be in there somewhere!

I'll report back with my findings. Hopefully, either I've connected it wrong and it'll work OR I connected it fine and the angle needs resetting by my garage.

CFAUVEL

thanks for keeping us up to date...it helps all of us

zwei_the_c

Pretty informative. I should look into clearing my SRS airbag light to go away now too. Only in my case it's like everyone who installs bucket seats, just need to get a airbag resistor and plug and play, I would hope. Hope you get everything handled!

Rajtastic

Thanks guys - glad this is useful. @zwei_the_c you have bucket seats? Could possible be the underseat yellow plugs (under both sides) having issues?

I'd recommend running the airbag self diagnostic procedure to see what error you get (download the SRS manual to what the code means) and see if that helps narrow it down. You may end up needing to take the clock spring out and checking the continuity of the air bag cables like I did but it's genuinely not that hard once you've done it once.

Here's a video of a guy doing it well:


I've done it quite a few times now and you can do the whole thing in about 30m once you know how to do it.

Here's what you'd need:

- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 1/4" drive 10mm socket
- 1/2" drive torque wrench
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive 19mm socket
- 1 philips screwdriver (decent length)
- 1 flat-head screwdriver (decent length)
- 1 small headed screwdriver (to unscrew the Steering Angle Sensor and switch it to the new Clock Spring)
- 1 x T30 security torx 1/4" drive socket (I got https://www.heamar.co.uk/stahlwille-...754150427.html because the first one I got was cheap and just snapped)
- 1 screwdriver which can run 1/4" drive (for the T30)

Tips!
- Don't wear any jewellery (so you don't scratch your car)
- Don't wear shoes (so you don't mark the inside of the car)
- When you plug in the airbag - make sure you *click* it so it's all closed and nicely tight. I put it back together without plugging it in properly and wondered why the airbag light wouldn't reset!

I'm sure there are some good forum posts on bucket seat handling. The resistor I got ran into the clock-spring (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Airba...72.m2749.l2649) but if it's an issue with the under seat connectors you'd need to figure out a way to run that into the yellow plugs under each seat - that'll be fun

Rajtastic

Okay, update. Turns out I didn't have 2 screws left over - they were from my original Clock Spring to connect it to the car. Phew. Here's the lowdown on the steering angle sensor:

- I took off the steering angle sensor and was wondering how I could have got it wrong - there's only one way to fit it (the screws make sure of that)
- I remembered what @Z33Garage said about aligning the 'tabs' so I thought I'd have a look at the video again
- The steering angle sensor actually has moving parts even when it's all fixed in. This means:

if you turn the moving part on the angle sensor at all when changing the steering angle sensor - it's going to be almost impossible to align it back to exactly where it is

Once I turned it, I had no idea where 0' was so I've got no hope of re-aligning it - I'll have to get the angle reset to 0'c via a Nissan Consult or something similar. Luckily, my garage is pretty friendly and will do this for free probably.

You might be able to figure out a way to ensure it aligns perfectly to what it was previously but because there are no hard alignment pieces, you'll have to be 100% sure that your new clock spring is aligned in the same way the old one was and that you don't spin the sensor at all. To be fair, if you reattach the wheel to exactly where it was (not hard) then in theory it should all be the same as long as you don't manually turn the internal bit of the sensor. I just didn't know what I was doing. Here's a video of me showing/explaining this:


Next steps:
- My battery is flat again so I need to charge it up again
- Then, I'll make sure the air bag light is still cleared / reset again if needed
- I'm going to use my OBDII scanner to see if I can see what the steering wheel thinks its angle is - hopefully it'll be way out

Will post when all hopefully fixed.