Hello everyone!

I have a 2006 de 350z. There is a long story behind it but basically it is at 126k miles. I got an oil change possibly 2-3 weeks ago. But I notice ever since that oil change, I noticed at high RPMs past maybe 3k it starts making a ticking noise. The oil pressure went from like 60+psi beginning of the oil change to less than 30psi now (around 1k idle). I just did my brakes yesterday too, I知 a little sad.. I知 thinking maybe there was too much oil that it could致e leaked into my spark plugs or something. When I drive towards a light the car will be in neutral and it値l just stall out or even when I leave the light shift to 2nd and as I shift the car stalls and I have to start it back up. One thing I did notice is as soon as I parked it and tried to start it up, it sputtered more and didn稚 want to start. So possibly the fuel pump? The RPMs are fairly low, when stopped, it値l be at like 1k then drop and go back up and so on. I知 fairly new to this Z, I bought it in March 2019. There is no CEL, please help!!

 

Did you pull codes?

 

Welcome- here's the first lesson for a new Z owner. There may not be a CEL to have a code in memory. Learn it, know it, live it...

 

I didn't have time to pull the codes if there is one. I mean it happened right as I got to work which sucks. This is also my OBD2 https://www.walmart.com/ip/OBD-ll-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-Check-Engine-Light-Error-Code-Eraser-Engine-Fault-Scanner-Tool-Auto-Code-Reader-OBD-2-OBDII-OBD2-Car-Scanner/427736510?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=12117&adid=22222 222227314293840&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=392247306885&wl4=aud-430887228898la-829710855296&wl5=9001881&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=1170892 18&wl11=online&wl12=427736510&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlL27 8evY5wIVCYizCh0I-wUkEAQYAiABEgKmk_D_BwE
Yeah man, bad luck. But will I still be able to get codes without any CEL? I can have one of my friends bring their OBD2

 

Thanks man, to be honest, I'm new to this WHOLE car community thing lol

 

FWIW if the motor is "surging " up and down in neutral you should check for a vacuum leak. Gl!

 

Welcome the the forums Nhem - no problem on being new. Everyone was a beginner at some point ... if you want to get better with the car this forum is a good place to start. Stay humble, dont get an attitude, everyone is here to help...

With that being said - usually when I think of stalling-out I tend to think crank shaft / cam shaft position sensors and MAF sensor.

1. Check the fuel pump fuse - it's in the fuse box on the passenger side / back corner of the engine bay. It's likely fine.
2. Can you hear the fuel pump 'prime' (turn on for a second) when you turn the key to the 'on' position ... if you can hear the fuel pump it's obviously fine.
3. Check CEL codes for sure. Maybe get a very very basic OBD2 reader.
4. Clean your MAF sensor. Get a can of MAF sensor cleaner from the autoparts store/walmart $4. Youtube the procedure it's pretty easy.
5. Clean your Throttle Body. You can also get throttle body cleaner too $4. Be very careful doing this.
6. Perform the Throttle Body reset procedure (google it - if you cant find it let us know)
7. Check for vacuum leaks around the intake - google & youtube how to do this. and/or check for disconnected hoses near the intake.

report back and we'll help you out...

upload some pictures of your car

 

thank you! So I got to my car and this is the only kind of thing I have so far. When I start up now it just sounds horrible.. I tried to send a video clip but I don稚 know if it posted

 

Upload it to Youtube and then post the link...

did you do spark plugs or coil-packs recently?

 

I didn稚 do any but I did get home and read the codes. The first one was p0113 intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high and another code which was p0021 A camshaft position timing over - advanced or system performance bank 2. Haven稚 been to my desktop to look any of these things yet.

 

so intake air temp sensor could be from your mass air flow sensor ... this sensor also does air temps for the ECU - get a can of MAF cleaner and clean your MAF sensor. Cam shaft position sensor. It would be wise to replace both cam shaft sensors and the crank shaft positions sensors at the same time. Only buy OEM nissan sensor from a dealership or Hitachi sensors (if you need the part numbers shoot me a message and I'll look them up). Hitachi sensors will be your best bet (price-wise).

 

thank you! I値l keep you updated, I知 going to try and clean the vvt solenoid I think, I saw a video where it might be the cause for that bank 2 code but I知 doing to check my sensors

 

So I added a video of what happened. Basically when Idling you can hear that ticking noise. I replaced my cam position sensor bank 2 and i cleaned the vvt solenoid which had a good amount of oil in it and on it. I cleared the codes prior to fixing these things but still the same ticking noise.

 

take another video from the engine bay - hood popped open.

Is the ticking consistent with engine speed or inconsistent with engine speed?

 

I would say it's consistent with the engine speed. higher the rpms, louder the ticking and more prominent.

 

sounds like a spun bearing or a very noisy valve...

assuming you have oil in the engine? meaning oil on the dipstick?

My advice for you would be take it to a trusted mechanic to have it formally diagnosed ... I think eitherway youre looking at a rebuild.

If I had to hedge my bets I would say noisy valve based on the consistency.

If you wanted to take it one step further drain the oil and look for bearing material in the oil. If you just changed the oil than you may not find any.

 

Definitely sounds much more, what is a good word, heavier(?) than the standard VQ tick I have heard on most Zs, mine included, but much more consistent than a bearing. I agree with Beall that your best bet is to have it taken to a trusted mechanic for diagnosis. The last thing you, or we, want to happen is for it to be misdiagnosed by us and be downplayed by yourself, then have something catastrophic happen down the road. Many of the users on this forum are EXELLENT with diagnosing common problems and helping, but this could be as simple as a common valve, lifter, or injector tick (video could be misleading) or the early signs of something more significant.

 

thanks guys, you guys are extremely helpful. At this point I知 keeping it in my driveway. I値l have one of my mechanic friends come by and check it out. I知 leaning on Swapping the motor out but super unsure what motor to put in. I値l update you guys once I get the real issue.

 

ls7 crate motor with long tubes

 

Don't get too far ahead of yourself my friend. Before you throw in the towel you'll want to make sure you get 2 tests performed-
Compression test and Leak-down test. These will give you a pretty good idea of the overall health of your motor. Then get several estimates on repair cost, and whether you want to DIY to learn and save money. Anything is possible- I once did a head gasket on an overhead cam turbo with no helper and only a Chiltons for guidance. Hang in there and gl!