mmuas004

My alignment is not where I want it right now. How would I fix the caster in the front? Also how would I correct the negative camber in the rear? I just installed aftermarket toe arms and camber arms the day before I got an alignment at the shop. Do I need aftermarket FUCA in the rear to fix the camber? PSA a screenshot of my alignment after taking it to the shop.

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

With those ridiculous numbers I can only assume you are slammed or the shop has no clue what they are doing FUCA should fix the front. I don't recall people using adjustable uppers in the back, are they even readily available? Only company I know that makes them is Moonface racing

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

First

What are your Goals with the car? (Type of Driving, Racing Type, Street)?

What suspension modifications have you made?

Does it Drive Straight with hands of the steering wheel? I doubt it.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

OP be looking like

mmuas004

It’s my daily driver so I just want to set it up for street. It’s sitting on true type coil overs so I went ahead and did a spring bucket delete with the toe arms. It’s about an inch-ish drop from stock height. I posted a photo of it below.





camber doesn’t seem too bad but just to prolong tire life I wanna get it back to factory spec. And yes it does drive straight.. af

travlee

iTrader: (8)

I prefer the kharmann ghia

MicVelo

As was stated, an adjustable FUCA will allow the front end to be brought into spec. The adjustable camber and toe arms out back should also work to straighten you up - literally.

The key here is to take it to an alignment shop that understands how to adjust with these aftermarket components. General shops like your Pepper Boys, O'Really and even slightly more specialized shops like Midas don't know how to go outside what their alignment racks tell them. We had a pretty new Hunter in our shop back in 2012 that kept saying "This dimension is not adjustable. This dimension is not adjustable." Felt like I was on Lost In Space. (Old guys will get that one.... )

Frostydc4

iTrader: (3)

@ some of the replies ITT.


OP you need to find a better shop.

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

Damn, that's not even THAT low, go to a performance shop that knows what they are doing. Also before you do, if you don't have eccentric lockouts get them.

mmuas004

Yeah I took my car to some local small tire shop and I thought they would get the job done, no wonder they only charged me $60 bucks. I guess I gotta do some diggin to find a shop that actually knows what they’re doing I guess.

jdmfetish

iTrader: (3)

They do make adjustable RUCA , but you don't need them.

jhc

Your local 350Z FB group will know the best shops.

Bmsluite

iTrader: (1)

You need to get that rear in check. I would shoot for. 08 toe in the rear and 1.2 camber in the rear. This will give you a lot more straight line grip, better tire wear, and make the car just a lot more fun to drive. Car companies add too much rear camber stock because it's "safer" for your average grandma type driver. Take some tire Temps and you will quickly realize you are not taking advantage of the rear tire with over 1.4 camber in the rear.

Tire Temps are key here. Get a laser thermometer. Also, throw chalk on the tire tread then go around a corner. This will give you an idea of how much of the tread you are using. Anywhere there is chalk left.....you are not utilizing to your advantage.

Its called car TUNING for a reason. Trial and error

mmuas004

After a month I finally got my GKTech FUCA installed and now it drives a whole lot better. Thanks for the help on the forum. It definitely came down to the technician knowing what he’s doing.

Bmsluite

iTrader: (1)

Nice on the FUCAs. I have the GKtechs also. Did you use the spacers to add that extra degree of caster? If you did I hope you love how nice your steering feel is now lol. Also, with that added caster you can run 0.00 toe in the front without tram lining on the highway. 0.0 toe in the front will improve turn in quite a bit. The extra caster keeps the front end more stable so you don't need that toe in to keep you stable anymore.

mmuas004

yeah one of the big reasons I got GKTech was to fix the caster in the front. Ngl tho the arms were a pain in the *** to install and reinstall for alignment cos the damn spacers kept falling out. Also, I thought having a little bit of toe helped out with straight line stability or is that only true for the rear?

Bmsluite

iTrader: (1)

Couple things lol..... Yeah those arms really sucked to install. I put the wrong one on the first side and then had to go back and do it all over again when I figured it out on the other side. So it took me 50% longer than necessary. For the spacers I put lithium grease all over them so they would stick together and never stick. No problems there.

​​​​​For alignment: yes, you are correct about front toe and stability. But it's less for stability than it is for the front end not wandering along ruts in the road. That toe in numbs your turn in though. It's a tradeoff. Lucky for you now you have increased caster. This extra caster keeps your wheels from wandering more than the toe in does so you don't need it anymore. You also probably need less camber as now you will get extra camber when you turn the wheel because of the extra caster. This is called caster gain. The more caster you have the more you turn the wheel the more camber you get. Let me know if you're not following any of this lol.

You are wrong about rear toe. It does not add stability. The reason you toe in at the rear is because the torque from the engine will actually compress all those bushings in the rear spreading the fronts of the wheels apart. They compensate for this torque symptom by toeing in the rear wheels. This way, at full throttle, your wheels are perfectly straight (0.00 toe) which gives you the best possible traction.