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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Car won’t go straight after crash and replaced arms

Old Oct 28, 2020 | 06:55 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
Dry roads in pic, 15mph
tires were bald running on the metal thread and i didn’t know. why would i lie if i need help it was a wide turn
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 09:06 AM
  #22  
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Alignment shop replaced tires and tried putting the rim on the machine and it was 16oz unbalanced which means it was bent imma get a new rim and he says he can try to align it cause he said we just threw the parts on and didn’t align it right
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mar_mar
tires were bald running on the metal thread and i didn’t know. why would i lie if i need help it was a wide turn
Bald tires= more grip on dry

Originally Posted by mar_mar
Alignment shop replaced tires and tried putting the rim on the machine and it was 16oz unbalanced which means it was bent imma get a new rim and he says he can try to align it cause he said we just threw the parts on and didn’t align it right
Also, yeah 1lb unbalanced; the tire balancer must of loved that wheel
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 10:07 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
Bald tires= more grip on dry

ya metal thread does too for sure lmao


Also, yeah 1lb unbalanced; the tire balancer must of loved that wheel
yup
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 03:00 PM
  #25  
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Glad you’re starting to find the extent of the damage.

So starting at the point of impact and working your way inward, you’re identified a bent rim and we know the control arms were shot. If the new control arms were quality and they bolted right up to the subframe, the subframe maaaaay be ok given the mounting points didn’t shift. If you can get your alignment in spec, you can be more certain the subframe is healthy.

While the collapsing control arms and bending wheel probably saved the subframe, there was likely a petty nasty shunt that went up the axle and into the differential. Be sure to check your CV joints for clicking/binding/torn boots, and to make sure the diff is running quiet and smooth. Keep an eye on the rear differential bushing in the subframe. The stock one is fluid filled and if it’s failed you’ll start to see the traces of the fluid running down the subframe from the bushing.

Lastly, be sure to get under the rear and give everything a good check for tight on both sides. Really, you should do that before the alignment if possible.

Good luck. 👍🏾
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