clutch wont build pressure
#1
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Location: sayreville nj
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clutch wont build pressure
hey guys im new to this, i was having an issue with my clutch sticking to the floor when driving but would pop back up eventually after i replaced my transmission. i took off the slave w/o disconnecting any lines when i took the trans out. so i figured id unbolt the clutch line bolt to make sure the slave was in place. i then reconnected the line to bleed the system using the bleeder. when doing so i lost all pressure in my clutch and cant gain any pressure, i tried the conventional bleeding system for 30-45 min and have gotten nothing. do i need to readjust the MC adjustment? ive heard that can help. anything will help me thanks
Last edited by Jake Schultz; 10-25-2020 at 03:49 PM.
#2
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MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
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Pressure bleeder really helps, and what year car are you dealing with ?
#3
You may want to try just barely opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder so its dripping ~1 drip/3 sec or so. Leave it like that for 10mins or so, keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. Then tighten it up and enjoy.
An old solo mechanic trick.
Oh, and put something down there to catch the brake fluid. It’s nasty stuff.
An old solo mechanic trick.
Oh, and put something down there to catch the brake fluid. It’s nasty stuff.
#4
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You most likely have air in the clutch hydraulics...that or something went horribly wrong when you swapped the transmission (Clutch fork not engaging the throw-out bearing carrier properly, therefore no pressure or resistance from the pressure plate). Have you verified heavy resistance at the clutch fork itself? Terrasmak asks a good question, the DE and HR equipped Zs have totally different clutch hydraulics. I assume you have an 03 ~ 06 year based on the statement in your original post about taking off the slave cylinder without disconnecting any lines.
Sundown makes a good suggestion about gravity bleeding the system. This method should at least get it to a point where the pedal can return. I've personally used the factory service manual method and it works great (just Google "350Z fsm clutch bleed"), but requires two people to execute the procedure properly. Another option is to use a pneumatic brake bleeder (requires an air compressor), this would be my choice but requires additional tools which I only recently acquired.
Hope you get it sorted out!
-Icer
Sundown makes a good suggestion about gravity bleeding the system. This method should at least get it to a point where the pedal can return. I've personally used the factory service manual method and it works great (just Google "350Z fsm clutch bleed"), but requires two people to execute the procedure properly. Another option is to use a pneumatic brake bleeder (requires an air compressor), this would be my choice but requires additional tools which I only recently acquired.
Hope you get it sorted out!
-Icer
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