alkemyst

Our son loves his 350Z he just picked up (2005 (non-rev up) Touring 6MT vert with BOSE and some additional add on options from the faction like 18" wheels and the color matched splash guards, cargo net/carpet, etc 135k miles).

I am a bit of a car nut since I was born in 1971, my first car was 1966 Mustang GT that my dad and I restored. Just finished up my own last build on a 2016 Cadillac CTS V-Sport now pushing around 500+ RWHP down. 11 sec range 1/4 miles and I did all the rest of the car as well (big brakes, suspension, fueling on E85, etc).

We had an inspection: Compression and most was good, but they recommended: plugs, coils, calipers and the rest of the brakes (calipers look fine other than one is missing a bolt), PCV, power steering pump, unmatched tires that were worn, noisy pulleys, they said the rest looks good. A couple scratches that were touched up on the body but nothing major. I want to inspect the radiator and under the car myself still.

What's been done:

1. Firestone Indy 500 Summer tires in factory 18" Touring sizes and a fresh alignment (totally changed the car according to our son). I run Mich PS4s on my car and these had really good ratings.
2. Belt conversion to Rev-up style (had squealing pulleys so it worked out better and a lower cost)
3. Some previous single exit cat-back exhaust (sounds OK).
4. Older Kenwood double din head unit, but only powering rear two speakers, would like to have door and sub as well).
5. Convertible repair that still needs tweaking, rods were bent. Motor works. Front to windshield needs work to get it sealed up). Is there a really good guide to troubleshooting that? I never had a convertible. I had T-Tops in the 80-90s that sometimes the rods would bend when someone did something wrong with them (valets).
6. Added some nice OEM Nismo floor mats to get rid of the cheapo's that were just sliding around and getting under the pedals.
7. New badges (previous owner tried to paint them black by hand).
8. Brake flush (pads and rotors are about up, calipers other than the bolt missing are ok)
9. Supposedly within the last 10-20k miles the clutch was replaced by previous owner. Not sure brand. It works so far well. Shifter is a little sloppy.
10. Replaced factory steering wheel with a quick release MOMO (My recommendation was the upgraded wheel with stereo controls and other creature comforts, but our son wanted something minimal)

What's ready to go that was bought, none of this is installed yet:

1. Hotchkis TVS (lowering springs and sways)
2. Moog front and rear end links (If I have to upgrade these later, I will talk to SPL Parts)
3. Viper 5706V w/ remote start
4. Nissan PCV
5. NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs LFR5AIX-11 #4469

What we'd like to do (the goal is to get the car back to being a great driver and some fun):

1. Excel-G struts, shocks, and the full set of bushings, mounts, bellows to mount them as a complete unit with the Hotchkis springs.
2. A good intake plenum (confused on this...Kinetix full cover vs just a spacer. I think the Motordyne is the best unless I decide to add a turbo to his car, not going to do $7k in turbocharging though).
3. Upgrade to Akebono brakes front and rear. Not sure on the E-Brake part of it all, need a recommendation on the spacers to adapt them to the 350z). The Brembos seem like 2x the cost right now. The rotors and pads have to be done.
4. Get the Viper Alarm installed with remote start.
5. Upgrade the stereo to have all speakers working, he has an iPhone if it matters for the headunit. Add a backup camera.
6. Update the shifter, do the RJM, a weighted ****, not sure on replacing the slave cylinder.
7. Whiteline rear differential bushing kit.
8. Refinish/replace the leather (Anything nice out there cheaper but like katzkin? Going to try Leatherique, but it may be done. It's not terrible, but I am trying to restore his car without going too crazy), door panels and center console with the 2006+ version? (cup holders) Then refinish the crappy painted parts.
9. Lighting upgrade (he has xenon, I heard you can add bi-xenon and some LED tails, I gave up researching this since most of the posts were back 15 years ago and said it's not worth it). I have had bi-xenon on my cars since 2012.

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear your son is enjoying the new-to-him Z. As most will suggest, drive it for about a year or so and then address any shortcomings with modifications. But, if the mod bug has bitten really hard, here are some thoughts on your planned upgrades.

If I were you, I would go with a different strut/shock setup and something designed to handle the modest drop that the Hotchkis springs will provide. Bilstein B8s would be my suggestion. I think the KYB Excel-G are meant to be an OEM replacement and not designed for lowering springs.

You'll see a lot of conflicting opinions over the Kinetix plenum versus just a plenum spacer. More power up top versus actual HP gains, etc, etc. IMHO, the price of the Kinetix plenum doesn't justify the performance gains and I would (and did) go with an angled plenum spacer.

The Akebono BBK mounts right up with the adapter for the fronts and some longer (supplied) bolts. The rears bolt on without any adapter. You won't need to mess with the parking brake, unless the shoes are worn out. Then you can replace them with OEM or the equivalent. I have them on my Z, but with that said, they are totally unnecessary for my needs. While they do provide much better stopping power over the stock non-Brembos, I also got them because I snagged a good deal on them and they also improve the aesthetics.

I would just get a newer HU that has an input for a reverse camera and compatible with Apple CarPlay. Since the Z has Bose (and if you want to keep the OEM Bose speakers and subwoofer), you'll need the PAC ROEM-NIS2 wiring interface since Bose runs off a lower impedance than the standard 4 ohm which is typical with most head units. Or, there's a lot of hate out there about the Bose or "Blose" system and you could just get a new HU, new speakers, new amp, and new sub to wire everything together. If you get a new subwoofer/amp combo, don't get a free-air model since the rear cargo area behind the driver's seat is not well-sealed and you're going to get a lot of rattles from the plastic trim pieces. I would recommend building a small down-firing box to fit in that space and cover it up with the OEM sub grille. With regard to the back-up camera, there is an available concealed camera that replaces one of the license plate lights and looks pretty clean. I think this looks much better than the tacky add-on cameras that bolt on at the tope of the license plate.

I would not recommend getting a short-shifter as they're mostly junk. Good luck finding an RJM unit as they're pretty hard to come by, but still possible nonetheless. It might be a good idea to go ahead and upgrade the master, slave, and clutch line with the Wilwood kit that ZSpeed offers in order to avoid the inevitable "clutch pedal drop." I love my Tommy Kaira Hebi Bebi weighted shift ****, but companies make clones out there which are just as good. You just don't get the JDM swag points.

The only way to add bi-xenon to his '05 would be with a bi-xenon projector which would involve cracking open the headlights and retrofitting. Not for the faint of heart. The '05 HID headlights use a reflector style D2R HID bulb for the low beam and a halogen bulb for the high. If you want to change the color temperature and add a slight upgrade, you can install D2S bulbs, but avoid anything with a color temperature higher than 6000K unless you like decreased visibility. IMHO, 4500K-5000K is that sweet spot which gives a whiter appearance without sacrificing useable light output.

If you want the bi-xenon style 06+ headlights, go with OEM or purchase the popular DEPO headlights with the single projector. You'll need to re-use the HID ballasts but get D2S bulbs.
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jv350z

iTrader: (6)

@ 135K miles, that Z surely could use a fresh set of camshaft position sensors, and the crankshaft position sensor. Also, a new differential bushing (maybe go with poly) because if the car has the original, it's probably on itself - you know when you see it.

jhc

+1 on the Bilsteins. The Z1 angled intake spacer is what you need, no tune required. I have an 06 roadster SC (heavily modified) with the Akebono BBK, and this is the last thing I'd do again bang for the buck wise. $2000 for a used kit installed with Z1 2 piece front rotors.
Finish out your intake and exhaust upgrades then spend $500 on a solid UpRev tune. You'll be glad you did. Gl!

alkemyst

Thanks, from what I understand the Hotchkis are less stiff in the rear and only slightly stiffer up front, plus not even 1" lower than stock and designed to work with OEM struts/shocks. If I went up over the Excel-G's then the Koni's would be probably my choice since I have known many to run those and they are adjustable/rebuilding. I was hoping the AGX was available for the 350Z as those were a good compromise back in the day. The Excel-G are $800-900 less in cost.

I do have the Whiteline rear diff bushings on the list, I missed it above. It's the KDT911 kit. I will edit the original post.

I am not sure what the previous owner did for the stereo. I know the rear passenger/tower speakers are aftermarket. None of the others are working. I read a lot about the rear sub space...but don't know a good solution. The other 4 spots are simple. In a 240SX SE I built up the two rear quarter sides for a 10" Image Dynamics on each side. It may not have been perfectly air tight in the end, but close enough where is sounded good and no rattles/odd noises. The 350Z's enclosure seems much more a challenge though.

The cam/crankshaft position sensors are pretty cheap and probably a good idea.

The Akebono setup is for looks really, but since we have to replace most of the brakes (I will double check the calipers as the one shop said they recommended replacement because of seeping, I didn't see any but I am assuming the calipers are probably due). The difference in costs is not that great and there are some better pad options.

I'd go with the Torque Solutions version for a short shifter, one piece and maybe add a poly trans bushing/mount when under there.

alkemyst

I wouldn't modify the factory housings, I'd go to the 06+ housings. From what I have read they can work with the Xenon ballasts and the proper bulbs.

If not the bi-xenons, what are some stock Xenon upgrades for the 05 models? Low beams at least aren't so great compared to other cars I have had (again most had at least bi-xenons).

For most of my cars I focus on the safety stuff first then power, so lighting, suspension and braking. Good tires definitely.

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

Depo for 06+ headlights
the 06+ tails are a straight swap as well.
I agree with others, no KYB, Koni or Bilstein.
I'm NOT a fan of angled spacers why? Not flat, think about it lol.
shifter requires extra force so make sure you son is ok with that.
For diff bushings I'd go Z1, their design is better than WL, yes I bought both.
tune is always a good thing, spacer MD is ok, but if you plan on any other manifold mods, just do the Kinetix.
People like to say it's not worth it but then they buy the whole MD setup which costs the same amount for less gains (where it matters)

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

For brakes, not a fan of the Akebonos, for the same price or close to it I went Nismo, looks better, no stupid paint, lighter and stiffer calipers than anything else in it's price range.

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

That's correct. Either the 06+ OEM headlight housings or the DEPO 06+ headlights will retain the OEM ballasts from the current headlights. Because the 06+ and DEPO headlights use a D2S bulb, as long as you get a 35w HID bulb, they will be compatible.

The "bi-xenon" is somewhat of a misnomer because unlike the traditional halogen bulb which has a high/low in the actual bulb with varying wattages, a bi-xenon projector uses an internal "flapper" or cutoff shield which is inside the projector that changes the light output to shine through the projector lens once the solenoid is activated. So, with a bi-xenon setup, you are using the same HID bulb. The 03-05 HID projector does not have this solenoid. The projector is much smaller as well, so there is no way to retrofit the high/low solenoid in it unless you were to open up the housings, and at that point, you might as well just put in a bi-xenon projector with that level of effort.

Some like the dedicated high halogen bulb as it doesn't require the several second warm-up period that HID bulbs need. So, if you need to flash someone, the light output is immediate. For the time being, you could get some D2S HID bulbs in the 4500-5500K range and put them in there. That will be a slight improvement. Then, when you go to 06+ style, you can reuse the bulbs.

I would also recommend a good headlight refinishing/polishing. Chances are, the lenses are probably cloudy or hazy and decreasing some light output. Other than that, outside of a retrofit, there isn't really much to do in the way of upgrading the 03-05 headlight output besides getting 55w ballasts and 55w HID bulbs.

350 vert

iTrader: (1)

With regards to intake, I've got a Kinetix V+ and I love it. Full upper plenum replacement. A separate spacer is not required since with V+ its built in (plenum is taller). It's plastic so it doesn't heat soak, but if you plan to go forced induction, its only good to 15 psi (per Kinetix). It also has a groove for your strut bar and comes with spacer-washers that fit between the strut bar bracket and body of the vehicle.

Remember: if you ever plan on disconnecting the throttle body wire harness, disconnect the battery first, then mash the brake pedal a few times to drain the ECU. Search for the pedal dance around here

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

I might be one of the only people who has followed zero superstitions or recommended precautions for the TB and have had zero issues with it. Only rule I follow is the one us mechanics usually do, do not move the throttle plate by hand, that's it.

alkemyst

The Nismos are almost impossible to find and when I have they want $2000+ for the set used. Any caliper can be stripped if paint isn't wanted.

I am still debating the Brembos vs Akebonos, the Brembos are about $200 more expensive once all the components are done (however; that is not counting the adapter brackets for the Akebonos). I would be buying the bare kits from PowerStop.

I was thinking about the Nismo's in the beginning, but they just seem impossible to find reasonably.

alkemyst

How do the Tein Enduro Plus rank? They are about halfway in price between the KYB and Koni/Bilsteins.

He's used short shifters before so is looking for a more positive 'click click' type experience.

I will use the Z1 bushings, they are lower cost as well. Is the oil filled bushing that hard to push out? They sell a mini bearing press kit to remove it.

For the spacer Motordyne seems to be the recommended on, probably going with that.

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

I don't know much about Tein.
the torque solution would probably give him that feeling.
As far as removing the bushing, it was hard but not impossible, I used a combination of Z1s tool and a professional tool set I own, mainly because the Z1 created a lot of friction in my case and I already had the other kit.
For the Nismo brakes I am referring to the ones made for Nismo by Stop Tech, the caliper kits can be had for 2000-2400 new depending where you get them from and what pads you get.

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

Hmm, I guess the Nismos have been discontinued already. Awesome puts my car in a even rarer category, as I have yet to see anyone else with them lol.

alkemyst

I need my tools back, my ex has been squatting in my house for 4 years now and with COVID the courts are not focusing on evictions. I had to restart my own life again and get an apartment. I have a decent jack, stands and basic tools but nothing like the $40-50k+ I have back at my house. Based on Z1's kit, I think I can get buy with just a high grade threaded steel rod/nuts and a proper sized socket or stack of washers.

The Nismos were my first choice, but at 3-4x the cost just not worth it for looks and a bit of spirited driving here and there.

For my Nissan 240SX SE build I went with R33GTS-T, they arrived like crap from some guy shipping them all in a crappy box with no padding. I took them all apart (I used JB weld to fill in some places that were dented) and then took them to a powder coat place. I rebuilt them and they worked really well: http://driftkat.com/images/Alkemyst9...rakesClose.jpg

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I would ditch the viper alarm, the OEM one is very effective.

I would swap the plugs with OEM, no need to get iridium plugs.

other than that, you seem to have a solid plan.


btw, I would get a steering wheel with airbag back on it.

alkemyst

He would like remote start. I have just sold two viper remote start kits prior to this. I bought the full out Viper for his previous 1995 Accord Sedan. Never installed it.

The iridiums I have now. I bought a lot of tune up stuff right at the get go. Car is on a little back burner since he just picked up his first apartment and has been busy with that. Once that calms down, I am going to try to finish off his car in the next couple months.

I wanted the later model air bag wheel with stereo control and more, but he likes that simple momo wheel. I can't blame him since I did that in 1997 with my GTI VR6 http://www.30moons.com/cars97GTIVR6.php

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

I feel ya, covid has messed a lot of things up, and there is no end in sight. I have seen people remove it without Z1s tool as well you just need to cut the sleeve up.
another cheap and worth while mod is the Z1 subframe collars.

alkemyst

On my 240SX I installed similar ones, they tightened things up without dealing with removing the old. For most of my suspension I was running pillow ball. Going to build this one a little tamer and then he can figure out if he wants to run with it.

Women said my 240SX was painful It was a fun car though. Ended up selling it to move into a 2006 M3 ZCP 6 speed prior to doing an engine swap.