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Why can’t a Turn signal issue be a simple bulb issue?

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Old 01-31-2022, 07:38 AM
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139driver
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Default Why can’t a Turn signal issue be a simple bulb issue?

Thought I just needed to replace my passenger side turn signal - noticed that it was out and had the hyper flash on the rear turn signal and on the dash.

bought and replaced - but it is still not working? Tried both new bulbs as well as the working one from the drivers side….. with no luck. Checked out all the fuses under drivers side dash that mentioned turn signal- all listed multiple components associated to each fuse, and I could not find any other item that was not working.

wonder if it has lost its power source? Any type of L and R turn signal relay? I really don’t want to go to the dealer🙈

2006 350z coupe enthusiast with gps.
120k miles- manual

side note- the 2006 manual states 3457NA as the turn signal bulb- and yet the car is using 7440NA?

any help / pointers would be great!




Last edited by 139driver; 01-31-2022 at 07:52 AM. Reason: Change title
Old 01-31-2022, 07:55 AM
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iideadeyeii
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Are all the other bulbs working correctly?
Old 01-31-2022, 08:19 AM
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139driver
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Default Bulb issue

All the other lights are working- I checked headlights , high and low, back up lights, interior lights….the only one that still refuses to cooperate is the passenger front turn signal- and I know the bulb is good as it worked on the left side and doesn’t on the right😡
Old 01-31-2022, 08:39 AM
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jhc
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The position of the metal contacts in pic 1 #7440 are very wide, almost to the ends of the base. The position of the harness contacts in pic 3 are very close to center.
My suggestion is start with OEM bulbs and check for splices in the harness that might indicate a revision.
Old 01-31-2022, 08:40 AM
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You can also try spinning the bulb 180 degrees.
Old 01-31-2022, 11:06 AM
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139driver
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Default Picture #2

So- I took the bulbs out of the sockets and tested with tester- both sockets have juice- if you look at the second picture it appears that someone decided to add a blue splice to the black ground wire to the right side turn signal- maybe had issues in the past, suggesting a grounding issue. Wonder if I should “redo” the “additional “ ground as it has worked up til now?

thoughts
Old 01-31-2022, 12:37 PM
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Sounds like a reasonable assumption, plus it's only 12V so you can hold it while testing, save some time...
Old 01-31-2022, 02:07 PM
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139driver
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Default No go

So I decided to “ redo” the ground that had been added to the existing harness- success- it worked for the trip to the gas station- then decided to quit on the way home😡 changed the place where the grounding cable attached to the body - but no luck!!!

I’m still convinced it is a grounding issue as it seemed to work for a while after messing with the additional ground. Hate having to go to the dealer tomorrow to hear what they have to say- but I’m fresh out of ideas
Old 01-31-2022, 03:04 PM
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Ponyryd
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In the first pic there’s a cut wire that looks like a ground, is that on purpose?
To me it sounds like a ground issue, but that blue splice connector is garbage and should never be used outside of maybe an interior wiring project if there is no other option. If you can cut and solder wires do a proper repair on it and run an dedicated ground to a clean (unpainted) metal or aluminum part. if not, there are good wiring repair connectors that have glue in them you can buy to do a proper repair.
Old 01-31-2022, 04:06 PM
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139driver
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Default Cut wire

Yea- not sure who or why the decision was made to use a blue splice….. I’ve been looking online to see if I can find the turn signal harness and replace it- or all the headlight assembly wiring for that matter - but can’t seem to find anything. It appears that they come with a new headlight assembly and is crazy expensive….
Old 01-31-2022, 04:08 PM
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Ponyryd
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Originally Posted by 139driver
Yea- not sure who or why the decision was made to use a blue splice….. I’ve been looking online to see if I can find the turn signal harness and replace it- or all the headlight assembly wiring for that matter - but can’t seem to find anything. It appears that they come with a new headlight assembly and is crazy expensive….
Do you see the bare wire I asked about?
Old 01-31-2022, 04:16 PM
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139driver
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Default Yes

The cut wire was the “home made ground” that I had to cut to get the headlight assembly out …just as process of elimination I reattached it and it worked for a few miles before it stopped working- so motion obviously works something loose again.

the fact that someone did that to begin with suggests this was an issue in the past -
Old 01-31-2022, 06:23 PM
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Ponyryd
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Originally Posted by 139driver
The cut wire was the “home made ground” that I had to cut to get the headlight assembly out …just as process of elimination I reattached it and it worked for a few miles before it stopped working- so motion obviously works something loose again.

the fact that someone did that to begin with suggests this was an issue in the past -
Well the ground is usually a feed from somewhere else, it’s sometimes an actual chassis ground but that’s not really common. There is nothing wrong with attaching it to a chassis ground though, but make sure it’s a good connection and I’d bet it will work. It would be easiest if you installed the light then did the connection by removing the inner wheelwell to access the backside of the light. It sounds like a connection problem to me, and you don’t need to go to the dealer for that, any decent shop could fix it easily I’m sure.
Saldy I can no longer access generic wiring diagrams or I could tell you where the ground comes from. I can take a look on my G35 next time I have it in the shop since it’s -10 here right now.

Last edited by Ponyryd; 01-31-2022 at 06:25 PM.
Old 02-01-2022, 02:32 PM
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icer5160
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I have some spare 2006 350Z headlamp assemblies in storage. If I have time this coming weekend, I'll dig them out and trace those black wires. It looks like someone did a hack job on the harness, probably to install an aftermarket LED front reflector kit or possibly even custom internals on the headlamp assembly. Seeing the amount of crusties on your headlamp tells me you live in a high humidity area and you likely have corroded connections. Either that custom splice is the culprit, or you have a compromised chassis ground in that specific circuit (since I assume everything else is working properly). There are a number of chassis grounds in and around the engine compartment next to the passenger front fender & headlamp. I highly recommend inspecting and cleaning all of these. Note that corrosion can sometimes creep up from the crimped ring/spade connectors and get inside the shielding. Look for green crusties right at the sleeve of the shielding. If you find such evidence, you need to open up the wire shielding, until you find good wire, then patch in a new/replacement length of wire, making sure you use quality shrink tubing (that includes glue) to keep oxidation from occurring again.

Another option regarding the headlamp wiring harness. You can sometimes find good used parts on ebay for fairly cheap (wrecked headlamps and such). If possible, would go that route 1st.
Good Luck!
-Icer
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