cheaper straight from them though
https://afepower.com/afe-power-tr-30...-intake-system

 

19hp and 16ftlb of torque. I'm going to buy 5 of them

 

haha. yeah, mainly for noise and looks

 

Thanks for the link

 

If only it were that easy

 

My work sells AFE power, just saying.

 

I've made some decisions and purchased the parts I need for the following:

Z1 – initial dyno $180 scheduled for Thursday the 6th

MREV2 and Iso copper spacer $1,158 Motordyne

Takeda CAI $291

Invidia Gemini catback $1,361 MAPerformance

Mishimoto Oil Catch Can Kit $310

Z1 after mods, tune and UpRev reflash ECU, and dyno-verify $850

RJM clutch pedal kit $326

Hotchkis adjustable front sway bar $275 Z1

My mechanic - Labor to install CAI, plenum, exhaust, sway bar, clutch pedal, and oil catch can $1,500?


I've decided not to do the differential for the time being. I may revisit that in the future.

Greg

 

those are some nice ramps

 

The problem with that is it won't show you the power lost due to heat.

 

If you can get the AFE with heat shield still that may be good, up to you but a few of us on here have advised against it since they are inconsistent.
If you do want an intake may as well go with AEM or Injen as both offer dry filters and both actually get you cold air.

 

3 of those things listed you should be able to do yourself with a friend... intake/sways/axle back

here is my old car with the gemini and ART pipes, also the day i changed it out to the TDX2

 

No heat shield available, I'd have to make my own.

I really like how the AFE is designed. Quite a large cone filter (dry) a 4" outlet feeds into a tapered tube. It just looks like it allows serious air intake and if I believe their testing, it does. I like how it looks too. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I probably will not notice the effects of heat on this CAI too much. I just don't drive hard enough long enough for it to be an issue. I'll look for it on the dyno test though - if we see a bit of a drop-off with each consecutive pull, that could indicate heat causing a bit of a loss of power.

Greg

 

You could also get this and just replace the filter with a dry one from Injen or AEM.
That thing should be the closest to a stock box without spending a thousand bucks lol.
https://www.mishimoto.com/nissan-350...ake-03-06.html

 

The heat isn't while driving BTW, it's when stooped or low air flow situations, if you are moving it is no big deal.

 

Yeah, I was looking at that one.

Well, my decision has been made and I'm good with it.

Greg

 

Hopefully it ends up working and you don't end up like me being 7 intakes deep before I quit lol.

 

I would like to think that all these pieces that I'm installing are going to go in smoothly and work perfectly, but my life experience tells me that more than likely there are going to be some issues along the way. So I'm prepared if I have to switch to a different CAI or back to the stock one.

It's going to be fun watching it all come together though. I'll share pics along the way.

Greg

 

I did 3... stillen, r2c, the takeada

 

I'm learning more about my 350Z all the time. Since I started this thread and has these great interactions with you guys, I've paid a lot more attention to how all my cars operate.

I've noticed that my 350Z works a lot harder than my SLK to rev up beyond 4000 rpms. The sound of both engines is very different at high revs with the 350Z sounding a bit strained and uncomfortable and the SLK composed. The 350Z engine seems to have a bit of vibration or looseness above 4K and the SLK is smooth and tight. The SLK engine is just as happy to turn at 5500 rpms as it is at 2500 rpms and willingly and easily and quickly runs right up to the limit

I'm not saying my 350Z won't rev all the way to limit, because it does, but with strain, noise, a bit of vibration - it's just uncomfortable and I think this is why I'm always going into the next gear at around 4500 because it just seems painful to go higher than that - like I'm abusing the car.

Is there something wrong with my engine? Tuning/timing/bad spark plugs? Does anyone else notice the things I'm describing with their engines?

I would love to have your feedback on this.

Greg

23K miles on the 350Z, 93K miles on the SLK

 

Sweet garage/ramp setup. Looks like you stopped short though, where's your paved driveway!?
Looks like recently poured concrete and new construction home. So I'm guessing things are still a work in progress. All things considered, very nice stable for the Z.

These mods are all pretty basic (entry level stuff) and should install smoothly. With how clean you've described the Z, you shouldn't have rust issues with the OEM exhaust bolts. Removing the stock plenum is pretty easy, just be careful with the vacuum and coolant hoses at the throttle body, there's one or two in hard to reach areas, some long hose pliers make it a breeze, but still do-able with basic hand tools. Your mechanic friend shouldn't have any troubles if they've done this kind of stuff before. I would wager, if you can do a brake or strut replacement, then this is something you should be able to tackle without much if any trouble (same level of difficulty or skillset required).
Cheers!
-Icer