350z faulty o2 sensors and camshaft?
08-25-2023, 06:23 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
350z faulty o2 sensors and camshaft?
Hey I need help with some codes that my Z just threw. It has thrown the following codes all at the same time. The last thing that I remember happening before was the engine stalling, but then I turned the car off and it cranked back up normally and drove fine. What sensors would need to be replaced? I’m confused on the different types of O2 sensors. Any help would be appreciated!
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A Circuit Bank 2
P1283 - Air-fuel ratio SENSOR1 (B2)
P1146 - Heated 02 sensor 2
P0138 - 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A Circuit Bank 2
P1283 - Air-fuel ratio SENSOR1 (B2)
P1146 - Heated 02 sensor 2
P0138 - 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
08-28-2023, 04:11 PM
#2
The VQ35DE/VQ35HR engines do require their cam and crank sensors to be replaced over time. Many folks are reporting the need for this work around 130-170k mi. It really depends on the environment, maintenance schedule, and age/mileage of the vehicle.
As for the O2 sensors, there are 2 sensors per bank (Note: bank 1 is the passenger side in US market), an upstream (on the exhaust manifold - sensor 1) and downstream (on the cat - sensor 2). You may simply have a bad O2 sensor causing false positive codes for the camshaft and MAF sensor. I would look at live data pids to determine which sensor(s) are acting up before firing the parts canon. In situations like this it's usually best to have a professional do the electrical diagnosis. I'm personally leaning towards the O2 sensor as the root fault since voltage is specifically mentioned in the dtc description.
Now I don't claim to be an electrical diagnostic guru, so take that with a grain of salt. But a live data scanner would help quickly determine the cause of the fault (or multiple faults). Also note that in some circumstances the engine could be out of time due to a mechanical failure or wear with the timing chains/tensioner. Since the PCM does not know how to interpret or compensate for a failure in this type of scenario, it starts throwing cam position or misfire codes. In short, it's very important to verify/check the engine's mechanical timing (not just ignition timing). It's also worth the time to verify you have good compression in all cylinders. No sense in replacing expensive sensors when you have a bent valve, burnt rings or valves, dropped a valve seat, or have a leaking/cracked head gasket. Not saying this is your case, you don't have any misfire codes. Just wanted to point out that simply replacing sensors doesn't always solve the underlying problem, which is why proper diagnosis is very important.
Edit: After thought, one of the symptoms of failing cam position sensors is random stalling engine or rough running, hard to start engine. You could simply have a failing cam position sensor. But my advice still holds true, monitoring the live data would help make the determination. Also, only use OEM ignition system sensors.
Cheers!
-Icer
As for the O2 sensors, there are 2 sensors per bank (Note: bank 1 is the passenger side in US market), an upstream (on the exhaust manifold - sensor 1) and downstream (on the cat - sensor 2). You may simply have a bad O2 sensor causing false positive codes for the camshaft and MAF sensor. I would look at live data pids to determine which sensor(s) are acting up before firing the parts canon. In situations like this it's usually best to have a professional do the electrical diagnosis. I'm personally leaning towards the O2 sensor as the root fault since voltage is specifically mentioned in the dtc description.
Now I don't claim to be an electrical diagnostic guru, so take that with a grain of salt. But a live data scanner would help quickly determine the cause of the fault (or multiple faults). Also note that in some circumstances the engine could be out of time due to a mechanical failure or wear with the timing chains/tensioner. Since the PCM does not know how to interpret or compensate for a failure in this type of scenario, it starts throwing cam position or misfire codes. In short, it's very important to verify/check the engine's mechanical timing (not just ignition timing). It's also worth the time to verify you have good compression in all cylinders. No sense in replacing expensive sensors when you have a bent valve, burnt rings or valves, dropped a valve seat, or have a leaking/cracked head gasket. Not saying this is your case, you don't have any misfire codes. Just wanted to point out that simply replacing sensors doesn't always solve the underlying problem, which is why proper diagnosis is very important.
Edit: After thought, one of the symptoms of failing cam position sensors is random stalling engine or rough running, hard to start engine. You could simply have a failing cam position sensor. But my advice still holds true, monitoring the live data would help make the determination. Also, only use OEM ignition system sensors.
Cheers!
-Icer
Last edited by icer5160; 08-28-2023 at 04:33 PM.
09-03-2023, 12:54 PM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
The VQ35DE/VQ35HR engines do require their cam and crank sensors to be replaced over time. Many folks are reporting the need for this work around 130-170k mi. It really depends on the environment, maintenance schedule, and age/mileage of the vehicle.
As for the O2 sensors, there are 2 sensors per bank (Note: bank 1 is the passenger side in US market), an upstream (on the exhaust manifold - sensor 1) and downstream (on the cat - sensor 2). You may simply have a bad O2 sensor causing false positive codes for the camshaft and MAF sensor. I would look at live data pids to determine which sensor(s) are acting up before firing the parts canon. In situations like this it's usually best to have a professional do the electrical diagnosis. I'm personally leaning towards the O2 sensor as the root fault since voltage is specifically mentioned in the dtc description.
Now I don't claim to be an electrical diagnostic guru, so take that with a grain of salt. But a live data scanner would help quickly determine the cause of the fault (or multiple faults). Also note that in some circumstances the engine could be out of time due to a mechanical failure or wear with the timing chains/tensioner. Since the PCM does not know how to interpret or compensate for a failure in this type of scenario, it starts throwing cam position or misfire codes. In short, it's very important to verify/check the engine's mechanical timing (not just ignition timing). It's also worth the time to verify you have good compression in all cylinders. No sense in replacing expensive sensors when you have a bent valve, burnt rings or valves, dropped a valve seat, or have a leaking/cracked head gasket. Not saying this is your case, you don't have any misfire codes. Just wanted to point out that simply replacing sensors doesn't always solve the underlying problem, which is why proper diagnosis is very important.
Edit: After thought, one of the symptoms of failing cam position sensors is random stalling engine or rough running, hard to start engine. You could simply have a failing cam position sensor. But my advice still holds true, monitoring the live data would help make the determination. Also, only use OEM ignition system sensors.
Cheers!
-Icer
As for the O2 sensors, there are 2 sensors per bank (Note: bank 1 is the passenger side in US market), an upstream (on the exhaust manifold - sensor 1) and downstream (on the cat - sensor 2). You may simply have a bad O2 sensor causing false positive codes for the camshaft and MAF sensor. I would look at live data pids to determine which sensor(s) are acting up before firing the parts canon. In situations like this it's usually best to have a professional do the electrical diagnosis. I'm personally leaning towards the O2 sensor as the root fault since voltage is specifically mentioned in the dtc description.
Now I don't claim to be an electrical diagnostic guru, so take that with a grain of salt. But a live data scanner would help quickly determine the cause of the fault (or multiple faults). Also note that in some circumstances the engine could be out of time due to a mechanical failure or wear with the timing chains/tensioner. Since the PCM does not know how to interpret or compensate for a failure in this type of scenario, it starts throwing cam position or misfire codes. In short, it's very important to verify/check the engine's mechanical timing (not just ignition timing). It's also worth the time to verify you have good compression in all cylinders. No sense in replacing expensive sensors when you have a bent valve, burnt rings or valves, dropped a valve seat, or have a leaking/cracked head gasket. Not saying this is your case, you don't have any misfire codes. Just wanted to point out that simply replacing sensors doesn't always solve the underlying problem, which is why proper diagnosis is very important.
Edit: After thought, one of the symptoms of failing cam position sensors is random stalling engine or rough running, hard to start engine. You could simply have a failing cam position sensor. But my advice still holds true, monitoring the live data would help make the determination. Also, only use OEM ignition system sensors.
Cheers!
-Icer
Cheers!
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