Livinit83

I have 2003 350z 177k miles, stock
I have to replace my slave/master cylinder and Throw out bearing.

Since this is no longer my daily car I’m thinking about finally making some modifications and would love some suggestions. Since I will have to pull the transmission to replace the throw out bearing I’m thinking of replacing my clutch and flywheel. I’m looking for suggestions on what else I should replace while the transmission is out? Stainless steel clutch line, Short shifter, Transmission mount. I don’t want to have to pull the transmission again so I would like to get it all out the way. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

Whats the best clutch/fly wheel kit to go with? I will be modifying the car for the next few years so I don’t want to just get a basic clutch, but I also don’t want the vibrations and chatter of a light weight flywheel. Is there a kit that will put out the performance that is needed with modifications without the chatter?

thank you in advance!

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

I would say no to the short shifter. The majority of them are garbage and just cause more problems. The OEM shifter is already pretty short. If anything, I would go with the Coolerworx shifter if I were going to do it.

Stainless clutch line is a good idea to eliminate the bird's nest loops from the OEM hard line which has a tendency to trap air bubbles. In addition to the TO bearing, I would also replace the clutch pivot ball to a chromoly clutch release pivot ball as the stamped steel version found in your '03 is weak and prone to failure over time. I would also go with a cast iron clutch fork (found in '04+) as the forks from '03 are also kind of weak.

If you've ever had clutch pedal drop issues (or not), I would also upgrade to a better master cylinder like the options available from Tilton or Wilwood. You can also then use a power bleeder to fit on the cap of the clutch fluid reservoir to make bleeding extremely easy and eliminate the finicky bleeding procedure which so many seem to struggle with. An OEM replacement slave cylinder should be fine.

As far as clutch/flywheel combos are concerned, if you change to a lighter single mass flywheel from OEM, you will probably get some chatter which is inevitable, but you can decrease this by going with a "midweight" flywheel - something in the 18-20 lb. range. The OEM flywheel is close to 30 lbs. I have a JWT lightweight flywheel which comes in at 14 lbs. and there is noticeable chatter, but it doesn't bother me. Or, you could just stick with something close to the weight of OEM. If you're not planning on making "big" power in the future (400hp+), I would just replace with something simple and close to stock specs and search for clutch/flywheels combos listed as "street" or something like that. Ignore all the "stage" nonsense.

MicVelo

What heel said. ^^

S'far as any recommendations, well, the tried and true Jim Wolf unit (as heel mentioned) is still a great option. I put this in a stock Z car and it's held up well for last 5+ years. I chose this option because I hate light flywheels for everyday/street use. (Just my experience with light flywheels from way back on an S30 so take this with a grain of salt.) But, the issues with a too-light unit still holds as physics don't change. ) This one features an iron flywheel which weighs a couple lbs less than the stock dual mass unit but is still heavy enough to be quiet, comparatively. Yes, a lighter unit will help you rev up faster but it's a trade off, IMO. The JWT will easily hold 400hp.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I have an aluminum 13lb flywheel.(ebay brand)
I matched this with an oem disk and it felt fine. ($80 ebay brand)
I didn't get chatter until I changed to a 6-puck disk(also $80 ebay brand) due to torque requirements.

Bak3rme

iTrader: (1)

not too expensive addition/modification while things are out is the shifter spring:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...UaAmKfEALw_wcB

Did this while I swapped out the trans to "freshen" up the shifter feel.

SkyeVargas

Yes, i agree with you. They are not that expences, ask compare to their.


Livinit83

So here’s what I have in my cart. Am I missing anything? I decided on the z1 clutch only because they make a mid weight. Still open to suggestions.

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you'll need the extra pivot ball since the upgraded fork kit comes with one. You'll need a few more flywheel bolts than just one. I can't tell for sure, but from the picture, it looks like a stainless line comes with the clutch kit. You may not need to purchase the separate one, but I would call Z1 to confirm.

Any particular reason why you're replacing the transmission mount and RMS? Is the OEM mount toast? Is the RMS leaking, or just some preventative maintenance while you're in there?

Other than that, looks good. Maybe throw in some Motul 5.1 fluid unless you already have some or a cheaper place to get it.

Livinit83

I think you’re correct about the pivot ball, I don’t think I need that. I believe I added that to the cart prior to upgraded fork kit.

The stainless steel line does come with the clutch kit but I believe the one they sell by itself also comes insulated for extra heat protection.

The transmission mount and rms I’m just replacing for preventative maintenance. Don’t want to have to go back down again.


Thanks for the reminder on more flywheel bolts and fluids. If you think of anything else, please let me know

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

It looks like you're pretty much all set as far as parts. I'm trying to think back to when I changed my clutch/FW. It's probably a good time to change your trans fluid. I would go with either OEM Nissan or Redline MT-85. I think I needed to get some molybdenum grease. I borrowed a slide hammer with a pilot bearing removal attachment from my local auto parts store. I think the FW bolts might be T55 and I used an impact on those. Just make sure you line up the FW properly, otherwise you're going to get some CEL codes. The Z1 kit probably has the alignment dowels to make sure fitment is correct.

Also, I hope you have access to a lift. It's doable on jack stands, but definitely not fun!

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Replace the pivot ball. It's like a $7 oem part at Nissan.
Mine broke after my 3rd clutch change. No idea what happened. Luckily I was just leaving my house.

MelissaPeterss

It sounds like you're about to embark on an exciting project with your 2003 350Z! Since you'll be pulling the transmission to replace the throwout bearing, it’s a great opportunity to make some worthwhile upgrades. Here are some suggestions:

1. **Clutch and Flywheel**: Given your desire to avoid excessive vibrations and chatter from a lightweight flywheel, consider a dual-mass flywheel. Brands like Exedy or ACT offer high-performance clutch and flywheel kits that balance performance and drivability.

2. **Stainless Steel Clutch Line**: Definitely a good upgrade. It improves clutch feel and reliability over the stock rubber lines.
Kodi
3. **Short Shifter**: This can provide a more engaging driving experience. Brands like B&M or Stillen are popular choices.

4. **Transmission Mount**: Upgrading to a more durable transmission mount can improve shift feel and reduce drivetrain movement. Consider brands like Whiteline or Z1 Motorsports.

5. **Rear Main Seal**: Since you'll have access, replacing the rear main seal is a preventative measure to avoid potential oil leaks in the future.

6. **Pilot Bearing and Clutch Fork**: These are often overlooked but important components to replace while you’re in there.

7. **Clutch Fluid**: Consider upgrading to a high-performance clutch fluid to handle the increased demands of your modified setup.

For clutch and flywheel kits that offer a good balance between performance and comfort, consider:

- **Exedy Stage 1 Organic Clutch Kit with a Dual-Mass Flywheel**
- **ACT HDSS Clutch Kit with Streetlite Flywheel**

Both options provide improved performance without the drawbacks of a lightweight flywheel.

Good luck with your modifications! Your 350Z is going to be a blast to drive once everything is done.