You guys thinking of lighting up your windscreen?
07-12-2004, 08:27 AM
#181
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Tommy,
No, I didn't get it through Nissan. I just went to a local glass company here in town. I took them the OEM windscreen and said that I need a piece of super clear tempered glass to match the original piece. It took them a week to order and cut the glass, but the final result was an clear exact replica of the OEM screen.
Thanks,
Mike
No, I didn't get it through Nissan. I just went to a local glass company here in town. I took them the OEM windscreen and said that I need a piece of super clear tempered glass to match the original piece. It took them a week to order and cut the glass, but the final result was an clear exact replica of the OEM screen.
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by iu350Zatx; 07-12-2004 at 08:46 AM.
07-12-2004, 08:34 AM
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Nissan charges $130 for a new windscreen (which they call it a DEFLECTOR - it took me and my local Nissan guy 30 minutes to find it in their computer Saturday morning, when I was ordering a new gasket for my windscreen (errr deflector) 
). But the Nissan screen is tinted and he said that he doubts someone could order a clear one from Nissan. The clear screen that I had made was only $70.
). But the Nissan screen is tinted and he said that he doubts someone could order a clear one from Nissan. The clear screen that I had made was only $70.
07-12-2004, 09:49 AM
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While Mike Goza's screen looked nice, I believe it could be better. Placement is a major issue with this type of product, and I'll be sure to make more mention of such in the next revision of the instructions.
In the Z's case, the logo is so close to the bottom of the deflector (and therefore so close to the LEDs themselves), hotspots are going to easily appear. I provide a one foot long cable between the LEDs for a good reason...separate the LEDs more. I suggest a 2-3" gap (at least) between each LED and the nearest logo corner (which should leave about 8-10" between the LEDs themselves). Angle the LEDs in towards the logo, but not necessarily directly at it...I think around 20-30 degrees shoudl be enough. It may take some creative mounting ideas while the glue dries, but the results will be worth it.
Check out the "Big Bird" S2000 windscreen on my company website and notice how bright the lettering is...that's a single LED on each side of the screen poiting in. You see a small hotspot for each LED along the side, but the S screen is a special case...the LED face is no more than 1/16" from the outside of the screen, so it's easily visible (much to my chagrin). With the Z, that hotspot shouldn't apear as quite a bit more of the deflector bottom is hidden behind plastic. The only hotspots that may appear will be on the logo itself, and as I mentioned before, those can be removed by pulling the LEDs farther away fromt he logo.
Also, make sure the LEDs are not angled away from the plane of the defelctor's edge (light lost to the front or back face of the screen).
I found the "offending" language in the install instructions:
"Connect the appropriate wire on the WSL-1 unit to the matching wire on the vehicle’s wiring harness..."
I'll reword it as it is misleading. I was attempting to say connect the brake wire to the brake input on the controller, reverse wire to reverse input, etc. The Z-specific wire color is listed in the Z install instructions, and the controller's input wire color is listed in the operating instruction manual for the WSL-1 unit.
From the sound of it, though, it seems as if the wire colors for the Z are backwards (or I wasn't paying close attention when making the controller's wire harness and swapped those two wires). I'll adjust the Z wire colors in the instructions.
For wire guage, you probably would have a much easier time using the vampire clamps. It's nice to see a quality install done correctly (solder and electrical tape), but I'm willing to bet most are going to go the vampire tap clamp route.
In the Z's case, the logo is so close to the bottom of the deflector (and therefore so close to the LEDs themselves), hotspots are going to easily appear. I provide a one foot long cable between the LEDs for a good reason...separate the LEDs more. I suggest a 2-3" gap (at least) between each LED and the nearest logo corner (which should leave about 8-10" between the LEDs themselves). Angle the LEDs in towards the logo, but not necessarily directly at it...I think around 20-30 degrees shoudl be enough. It may take some creative mounting ideas while the glue dries, but the results will be worth it.
Check out the "Big Bird" S2000 windscreen on my company website and notice how bright the lettering is...that's a single LED on each side of the screen poiting in. You see a small hotspot for each LED along the side, but the S screen is a special case...the LED face is no more than 1/16" from the outside of the screen, so it's easily visible (much to my chagrin). With the Z, that hotspot shouldn't apear as quite a bit more of the deflector bottom is hidden behind plastic. The only hotspots that may appear will be on the logo itself, and as I mentioned before, those can be removed by pulling the LEDs farther away fromt he logo.
Also, make sure the LEDs are not angled away from the plane of the defelctor's edge (light lost to the front or back face of the screen).
I found the "offending" language in the install instructions:
"Connect the appropriate wire on the WSL-1 unit to the matching wire on the vehicle’s wiring harness..."
I'll reword it as it is misleading. I was attempting to say connect the brake wire to the brake input on the controller, reverse wire to reverse input, etc. The Z-specific wire color is listed in the Z install instructions, and the controller's input wire color is listed in the operating instruction manual for the WSL-1 unit.
From the sound of it, though, it seems as if the wire colors for the Z are backwards (or I wasn't paying close attention when making the controller's wire harness and swapped those two wires). I'll adjust the Z wire colors in the instructions.
For wire guage, you probably would have a much easier time using the vampire clamps. It's nice to see a quality install done correctly (solder and electrical tape), but I'm willing to bet most are going to go the vampire tap clamp route.
Originally posted by AustinS2k2003
Dan:
What you've stated here makes perfect sense to me and I knew I read somewhere that the digital LEDS are twice as bright as the original ones; I didn't tune my screen to green for comparison with Mike's but the brightness may be a factor of misplacement. I doubt that Mike's screen is tinted at all as I saw the original Z screen and the new one and the new one is much much clearer despite the original only having a slight tint to it.
Now as for the cabling Mike told me the information is split between the operating instructions and the install instructions. Nowhere that we could find does the install instructions explicitely state what wires in the car to make the connection to (that we could find). It does state the parking light wire explicly, but it just says match the colors for the other ones, which is inaccurate. The color combo should be Blue (screen) to Light green (car) and green (screen) to lavedar/blue stripe (car).
The connectors on this version are DEFINATELY much better than the ones on the original S windscreen; no doubt about that in fact I think had I had this connector type on my originaly screen I'd have not had to send it back to you because of that one bad joint way back when! Mike and I both just had a tough time stirpping the small wires to make the connections. Once they were stripped it wasn't to bad to solder em up to the wires on the car but I could see others who haven't done an install like this having some problems!
All in all a great product. I'm sure once Mike and I get some changes in place it'll look brighter. Mike did the mounting of the LEDS cause I didn't want to cut a part of HIS car
As always Dan top-notch customer service!
Dan:
What you've stated here makes perfect sense to me and I knew I read somewhere that the digital LEDS are twice as bright as the original ones; I didn't tune my screen to green for comparison with Mike's but the brightness may be a factor of misplacement. I doubt that Mike's screen is tinted at all as I saw the original Z screen and the new one and the new one is much much clearer despite the original only having a slight tint to it.
Now as for the cabling Mike told me the information is split between the operating instructions and the install instructions. Nowhere that we could find does the install instructions explicitely state what wires in the car to make the connection to (that we could find). It does state the parking light wire explicly, but it just says match the colors for the other ones, which is inaccurate. The color combo should be Blue (screen) to Light green (car) and green (screen) to lavedar/blue stripe (car).
The connectors on this version are DEFINATELY much better than the ones on the original S windscreen; no doubt about that in fact I think had I had this connector type on my originaly screen I'd have not had to send it back to you because of that one bad joint way back when! Mike and I both just had a tough time stirpping the small wires to make the connections. Once they were stripped it wasn't to bad to solder em up to the wires on the car but I could see others who haven't done an install like this having some problems!
All in all a great product. I'm sure once Mike and I get some changes in place it'll look brighter. Mike did the mounting of the LEDS cause I didn't want to cut a part of HIS car
As always Dan top-notch customer service!
07-12-2004, 09:53 AM
#184
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Oh, I almost forgot....the FedEx man (actually, woman) dropped off a new programmer this morning. I haven't tried it yet, but my shortage of controllers should be finished by this afternoon.
Mike...I believe I owe you a Footwell Controller
Mike...I believe I owe you a Footwell Controller
07-12-2004, 12:52 PM
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Boy, it gets confusing with both initial installs being done by Mike's. The Z specific install instructions should have the correct wiring listed with their position on the connector shown. I haven't seen the final install instructions, but I know the original had a graphic showing this. I'm sure Mac left that in.
As for bright, that is not a problem with mine. Mine is REALLY bright after switching to the super clear glass. Mac is also correct that placement makes a difference on the LED. I have mine spaced to close to the emblem. I'm just too lazy to go back in and move them out more. If I did, the hot spots would go away.
Later guys and gals,
Mike G.
As for bright, that is not a problem with mine. Mine is REALLY bright after switching to the super clear glass. Mac is also correct that placement makes a difference on the LED. I have mine spaced to close to the emblem. I'm just too lazy to go back in and move them out more. If I did, the hot spots would go away.
Later guys and gals,
Mike G.
07-12-2004, 01:23 PM
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Dan:
Very informative; I think iu350zatx's LEDS may have inadvertentely been mouted angled out towards the rear of the car. I say this because after we installed it and drove around we were looking at the top screen from the back where the top is and I noticed a significant amount of light coming off in that direction between the screen and the softtop (hard to explain, but if you look at the cover back there you'll see what I mean.
I also thought that a third LED may be useful because I saw the other Mike's pictures and noticed the 'dead' spots there in the upper right and left sides. iu350zAtx positioned the LEDS further out the he did - probably a bit to the right and left of the end of the Z. I think angling as you stated will help.
For record here are the confirmed correct wires for the Z:
parking lights - correct in instructions
green windscreen wire - connect to lavendar/blue Z wire
blue windscreen wire - connect to light green Z wire
iu350zAtx and I soldered/electrical taped the wires on. Honestly I wasn't comfortable with those little wires holding with anything other than electrical tape and since the gauges between the two are very different I believed it'd have been very tough to get this to happen (26 GA wire vs maybe 16 GA (i'm guessing) on the Z.
Also it may be worthwhile once we get this perfect to include a photo of the screen with the mounting points and even measurements from the edges so that people know exactly where to put them iu350zatx and I could take that photo when we remove his screen to fix the LEDS and graphic.
One last thing Dan - when you do the instrument cluster for the S I'll volunteer to prototype and do the instructions Get on that project!!! .
Very informative; I think iu350zatx's LEDS may have inadvertentely been mouted angled out towards the rear of the car. I say this because after we installed it and drove around we were looking at the top screen from the back where the top is and I noticed a significant amount of light coming off in that direction between the screen and the softtop (hard to explain, but if you look at the cover back there you'll see what I mean.
I also thought that a third LED may be useful because I saw the other Mike's pictures and noticed the 'dead' spots there in the upper right and left sides. iu350zAtx positioned the LEDS further out the he did - probably a bit to the right and left of the end of the Z. I think angling as you stated will help.
For record here are the confirmed correct wires for the Z:
parking lights - correct in instructions
green windscreen wire - connect to lavendar/blue Z wire
blue windscreen wire - connect to light green Z wire
iu350zAtx and I soldered/electrical taped the wires on. Honestly I wasn't comfortable with those little wires holding with anything other than electrical tape and since the gauges between the two are very different I believed it'd have been very tough to get this to happen (26 GA wire vs maybe 16 GA (i'm guessing) on the Z.
Also it may be worthwhile once we get this perfect to include a photo of the screen with the mounting points and even measurements from the edges so that people know exactly where to put them
iu350zatx and I could take that photo when we remove his screen to fix the LEDS and graphic.One last thing Dan - when you do the instrument cluster for the S I'll volunteer to prototype and do the instructions
Get on that project!!! .
Last edited by AustinS2k2003; 07-12-2004 at 02:14 PM.
07-12-2004, 02:42 PM
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I removed the pinout graphic as it was somewhat unclear, believing the wire colors and general position within the connector to be enough.
After checking my circuit, it looks as if the wire colors are backwards in the WSL-1 Operating Instructions Manual. For the controller, it should be:
1) Blue - Backup Lights
2) Green - Brake Lights
On the connector for the Z, the installation instructions are correct:
1) Lavender/blue wire - Brake
2) Green - Backup
Now that the Windscreen Lights and Footwell Lights are nearing production (nailing down component suppliers for everything at the moment), the next piece to come from Hi-Tec Designs will be Underbody Lights. I'm about 75% finished laying out the prototype board for this one. This kit will be more powerful than anything that can be purchased in the States so far, not to mention being completely flexible
After checking my circuit, it looks as if the wire colors are backwards in the WSL-1 Operating Instructions Manual. For the controller, it should be:
1) Blue - Backup Lights
2) Green - Brake Lights
On the connector for the Z, the installation instructions are correct:
1) Lavender/blue wire - Brake
2) Green - Backup
Now that the Windscreen Lights and Footwell Lights are nearing production (nailing down component suppliers for everything at the moment), the next piece to come from Hi-Tec Designs will be Underbody Lights. I'm about 75% finished laying out the prototype board for this one. This kit will be more powerful than anything that can be purchased in the States so far, not to mention being completely flexible
07-12-2004, 03:42 PM
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You gonna try and wrestle my ICELEDs away from me MAC?
Originally posted by MacGyver
I removed the pinout graphic as it was somewhat unclear, believing the wire colors and general position within the connector to be enough.
After checking my circuit, it looks as if the wire colors are backwards in the WSL-1 Operating Instructions Manual. For the controller, it should be:
1) Blue - Backup Lights
2) Green - Brake Lights
On the connector for the Z, the installation instructions are correct:
1) Lavender/blue wire - Brake
2) Green - Backup
Now that the Windscreen Lights and Footwell Lights are nearing production (nailing down component suppliers for everything at the moment), the next piece to come from Hi-Tec Designs will be Underbody Lights. I'm about 75% finished laying out the prototype board for this one. This kit will be more powerful than anything that can be purchased in the States so far, not to mention being completely flexible
I removed the pinout graphic as it was somewhat unclear, believing the wire colors and general position within the connector to be enough.
After checking my circuit, it looks as if the wire colors are backwards in the WSL-1 Operating Instructions Manual. For the controller, it should be:
1) Blue - Backup Lights
2) Green - Brake Lights
On the connector for the Z, the installation instructions are correct:
1) Lavender/blue wire - Brake
2) Green - Backup
Now that the Windscreen Lights and Footwell Lights are nearing production (nailing down component suppliers for everything at the moment), the next piece to come from Hi-Tec Designs will be Underbody Lights. I'm about 75% finished laying out the prototype board for this one. This kit will be more powerful than anything that can be purchased in the States so far, not to mention being completely flexible
07-12-2004, 08:23 PM
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Well, I'll put it this way...at the moment, the design in the pipeline is NOT meant to be a direct competitor with any system in particular. Cost will be quite a bit higher than your typical $70 eBay POS, but so will the quality, functionality, and brightness.
Functionality-wise, my initial system should beat all but two (of all systems I'm currently aware of). Price will be significantly lower than those two systems, but slightly above what many consider the remaining top systems.
Is ICELED on my radar? Of course. Will I be making a directly competing product with my first underbody offering? No. Is a contender in the pipeline? <insert evil grin here> Let's just say my Master's degree and years of experience in the imaging and communications field haven't be going to waste There's an amazing system on paper right now (by system, I don't mean a single piece), but it will have to wait until some other things settle down.
I'm looking at sending the Underbody Lights proto board off to the board house by the end of the week <crossing fingers>, and I will hopefully finish ordering parts for the Footwell and Windscreen Lights by next week (most of the parts I currently have are ancillary).
I refuse to get into any arguments with individuals (or another company, for that matter) about whom has the best kit...that's for the purchaser to decide. Every design is a combination of trade-offs, I believe I have designed a system with the least number of trade-offs (which indirectly translates to increased functionality).
Some days I would gladly give up some of my profit to have another pair of ears to bend, or pass off some of the work to another. To this day, though, I have yet to come across another indivdual whom I trusted enough to do the job correctly AND was local. Que sera...
Functionality-wise, my initial system should beat all but two (of all systems I'm currently aware of). Price will be significantly lower than those two systems, but slightly above what many consider the remaining top systems.
Is ICELED on my radar? Of course. Will I be making a directly competing product with my first underbody offering? No. Is a contender in the pipeline? <insert evil grin here> Let's just say my Master's degree and years of experience in the imaging and communications field haven't be going to waste
There's an amazing system on paper right now (by system, I don't mean a single piece), but it will have to wait until some other things settle down.I'm looking at sending the Underbody Lights proto board off to the board house by the end of the week <crossing fingers>, and I will hopefully finish ordering parts for the Footwell and Windscreen Lights by next week (most of the parts I currently have are ancillary).
I refuse to get into any arguments with individuals (or another company, for that matter) about whom has the best kit...that's for the purchaser to decide. Every design is a combination of trade-offs, I believe I have designed a system with the least number of trade-offs (which indirectly translates to increased functionality).
Some days I would gladly give up some of my profit to have another pair of ears to bend, or pass off some of the work to another. To this day, though, I have yet to come across another indivdual whom I trusted enough to do the job correctly AND was local. Que sera...
07-13-2004, 03:32 AM
#190
Originally posted by iu350Zatx
Tommy,
No, I didn't get it through Nissan. I just went to a local glass company here in town. I took them the OEM windscreen and said that I need a piece of super clear tempered glass to match the original piece. It took them a week to order and cut the glass, but the final result was an clear exact replica of the OEM screen.
Thanks,
Mike
Tommy,
No, I didn't get it through Nissan. I just went to a local glass company here in town. I took them the OEM windscreen and said that I need a piece of super clear tempered glass to match the original piece. It took them a week to order and cut the glass, but the final result was an clear exact replica of the OEM screen.
Thanks,
Mike
07-13-2004, 03:49 AM
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Hehe it happens dan...when you get to installation for the S and maybe even the Z let me know; I've done two UB installs to date on the S and I know where everything should go so the tubes don't show and believe me the front and rear tubes on the S are no picnic...but I'll be happy to help you with guidance
07-13-2004, 10:28 AM
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Originally posted by Chief F1 Fan
Pardon my ignorance but what technique is used to recreate the "Z" on the windscreen? And also, where'd you go to get it done? I'd consider sending a piece of glass there to have it done actually. Thanks!
Pardon my ignorance but what technique is used to recreate the "Z" on the windscreen? And also, where'd you go to get it done? I'd consider sending a piece of glass there to have it done actually. Thanks!
"I had a friend at www.streetartusa.com make an emblem out of frosted vinyl for $5 using a dxf file that I sent him of the Z emblem. He said he would sell them to anyone that wanted one for $5. Just call or email and tell them I sent you. He does custom work all the time so if you have some other design in mind, I'm sure he could do it.
By the way, etching the same emblem was going to cost me $100+ and they couldn't guarentee that they wouldn't break the glass. I think the frosted vinyl looks great and I can change the design when I get tired of it!"
Mike's friend name is Preston and email is preston@streetartusa.com and he does great work.
Last edited by iu350Zatx; 07-13-2004 at 10:30 AM.
07-13-2004, 12:54 PM
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Will send in tomorrow's shipment...
Don't forget to let us all know what you think of the Footwell Lights...I'll start a new thread for them once I take some better pictures.
Don't forget to let us all know what you think of the Footwell Lights...I'll start a new thread for them once I take some better pictures.
07-15-2004, 08:20 PM
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I will definitely let everyone know (with pics) about the footwell lights... as a preview I hooked the footwell LEDs up to the open slot on the windscreen control box and WOW, they are sweeeeeeeet!!!!! I can't wait to get the full install completed !
!
07-16-2004, 08:10 AM
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Mike,
Before I forget again... since you opted to go with a second Windscreen Lights controller for your Footwells, you'll need to pick up a relay. Most door wiring setups have 12V on them while the door is closed, when opened the door pin connects it to ground. These are also low current setups, so you'll need the relay to invert the voltage and give you some more power to play with.
The Footwell controller doesn't have this issue as it has 2 high and 2 low inputs.
Just so you're prepared...
Before I forget again... since you opted to go with a second Windscreen Lights controller for your Footwells, you'll need to pick up a relay. Most door wiring setups have 12V on them while the door is closed, when opened the door pin connects it to ground. These are also low current setups, so you'll need the relay to invert the voltage and give you some more power to play with.
The Footwell controller doesn't have this issue as it has 2 high and 2 low inputs.
Just so you're prepared...