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Wet Roadster Top/Moisture Questions

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Old 12-08-2010, 09:36 PM
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Arvin89
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Default Wet Roadster Top/Moisture Questions

I know this is a roadster question but i didnt want to limit the responses to only the roadster forum. This is my first roadster, i dont really know all that much about the tops yet, learning with experience.

I live in Vancouver, B.C. 100 years ago or so, some dipshits thought it would be funny to cut down a rainforest and replace it with a city. Too bad they didnt realize that cutting down the trees wouldnt make the rain stop.

Now ill get straight to the point.

-washed my car before storage on a cloudy day (2 days ago) dried the entire car, except the roof like i normally do
-since then the weathers been around 5-6 degrees Celsius and its been raining non-stop, and its gonna rain all week
-noticed that the convertible top is still wet/moist (must be the weather, moisture and temp.) Thank god i didnt put the cover on it yet.

Wondering:
1)Are there any safe ways of drying the top? (Garage is not heated)
I contemplated using a heat gun, but i was afraid to damage the top or any materials in it that dont respond well to heat.

2)Its been moist for 2 days already, i dried it with a drying cloth as soon as i noticed, but i doubt that helped at all if the tops moist/damp on the inside. Do you think that there will be any mold/mildew growing already in there somewhere already?

3)What should i do to prevent any mold/mildew from growing further if there is a chance that it may now.

I know the my350z is known for its flaming, so ive got my flamesuit on, lol, but i would appreciate any informative input.

Thanks.
Old 12-08-2010, 09:45 PM
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winchman
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Open the garage door, and let the engine run with the heater controls in the defrost mode with the heat turned up to max. The AC dries the air in defrost mode, so the output will have the lowest obtainable relative humidity, and it will be directed at the top of the car.

I doubt mold will grow very quickly at that low a temperature.

I hate running the car for an extended period like that, but sometimes it's just the only way.

Maybe you could get a dehumidifier to put in the garage with the car. That way you wouldn't have to keep the door open and run the engine. The dehumidifier would also provide a little heat in the garage.

Last edited by winchman; 12-08-2010 at 09:49 PM.
Old 12-08-2010, 10:54 PM
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Jennifer 2
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Hi Arvin, I’m also in Vancouver. My roadster is my daily driver and this is its seventh winter. The top is still in good shape with no leaks or moisture problems. The Z comes a two layer vinyl top, the outer coating is vinyl and the inner part is a synthetic twill fabric. The vinyl is pretty much 100% waterproof and the inner twill has a very effective anti mold/mildew treatment.

Normally water beads up and rolls off the top helping it dry very quickly after a wash. After a few years it starts to build up a little grime and oxidation and this property diminishes. It’s still waterproof, but as you’re finding it will take forever to dry completely in cool weather. This is not a big maintenance issue, as all it needs is a cleaning and treatment with a convertible top protectant. I use the Rag Top brand and found it to only needs reapplication every two or three years on my garage kept car.

I doubt any water has soaked through to the inside of your top, but some moisture may be there due to condensation. Simply start the engine and run the heater/defrost at full blast (make sure the a/c light is on to dehumidify the air) for 10-15 minutes.

Even though it rains like hell in the winter here, the cool air in the garage will be much dryer than the summer, and your car will be happy
Old 12-09-2010, 08:31 AM
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Blooster
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Why don't you dry the roof after washing the car? I always do - with a towel.

+1 on protectant. I use 303 - helps with the beading up - same as it would on a tent or boat bimini top.

(greetings from soggy south Florida )

Last edited by Blooster; 12-09-2010 at 08:33 AM.
Old 12-09-2010, 08:43 AM
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Arvin89
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Thanks guys and gal. Really appreciate the help.



Originally Posted by Blooster
Why don't you dry the roof after washing the car? I always do - with a towel.

+1 on protectant. I use 303 - helps with the beading up - same as it would on a tent or boat bimini top.

(greetings from soggy south Florida )

And i usually dont dry the top because its already dry by the time im done washing/drying/squeegeeing the rest of the car. I didnt realize out of habit i suppose. But i will from now on.

Last edited by Arvin89; 12-09-2010 at 08:44 AM.
Old 12-09-2010, 10:26 AM
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karas..56
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Originally Posted by Arvin89
Thanks guys and gal. Really appreciate the help.






And i usually dont dry the top because its already dry by the time im done washing/drying/squeegeeing the rest of the car. I didnt realize out of habit i suppose. But i will from now on.
just let it dry normal don't use any dryer or trying to dry it with any way, you will harm the top and will be more flexible and absorbent .. it's acrylic top and 100% waterproof .when it gets dry do some Rag protectant .this my second roadster and my third top ..
Old 12-09-2010, 04:54 PM
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davidv
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Originally Posted by winchman

Maybe you could get a dehumidifier to put in the garage with the car. That way you wouldn't have to keep the door open and run the engine. The dehumidifier would also provide a little heat in the garage.
Agree.

In the spring when you put the car on the road, wash the top. Dry in sun. Spray with Scotch Guard.
Old 12-10-2010, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by karas..56
just let it dry normal don't use any dryer or trying to dry it with any way, you will harm the top and will be more flexible ..
I'm confused! Drying the top (gently) with a towel will cause damage?

If I let the paint dry in the sun, the results would be pretty bad!

Doesn't that kind of water droplet residue hurt the top as well?

This may sound nitpicky but I think most of us are a little **** about upkeep details
Old 12-10-2010, 03:15 PM
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Jennifer 2
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Not wanting to be seen as piling on, but if I could add to Blooster’s comments: David if you check Scotch Guard’s instruction blurb, it explicitly states not for use on vinyl. One of the main reasons for using a dedicated vinyl top cleaner/conditioner product, is to renew the UV protection that will deteriorate with time.
Old 12-10-2010, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jennifer 2
Not wanting to be seen as piling on, but if I could add to Blooster’s comments: David if you check Scotch Guard’s instruction blurb, it explicitly states not for use on vinyl. One of the main reasons for using a dedicated vinyl top cleaner/conditioner product, is to renew the UV protection that will deteriorate with time.
My bad. Tried 303 water repellant recently on the car cover. Results are poor. Going back to tried-and-true Scotch Guard.
Old 12-10-2010, 04:05 PM
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Arvin89
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Alright people. I dried it the heat/AC way that was suggested first. It worked. Took friggin 45mins but it worked. And i think ill stick with what jennifers saying about the top. She seems to have more than enough knowledge and experience with the ragtops and deals with the same climate i do.
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