I've just bought a white 2008 Touring with gray leather interior (still grinning).

Couple of questions about the soft top :

1, What can I use on the soft top to preserve life and color. The fabric is a grey color (not black).

2, The retraction operation slows right down just as the soft top is about to go into the trunk (almost to a stop) but does actualy complete. I spoke to the dealer and he said it was due to the fact the car has been stood for 2 - 3months over the cold winter months (Cincinnati). With this in mind, are there any specific lube points I should look at and if so what's the method and material for lubrication.

Yours, looking for some warm weather, new 350Z smiler.

 

The best and most common products are Rag Top cleaner & Rag Top protectant made by Wolfstins. Also good, are similar products made by 303. The Z top is vinyl, so be sure to get the appropriate product, as there is a different formulation for fabric tops. I use the Rag Top stuff and my top is still like new after eight and a half years. The protectants have very effective ultraviolet blockers and need to be reapplied when water stops beading up and sliding off. Very similar to wax on your paint. My car has a garage to sleep in so I only need to reapply the top stuff about twice a year.

If nobody else can post the lub points, I can dig out some links for them when I return home. There are about twenty places to lubricate, some of them hiding behind covers. Every few years is a good interval for this service.

 

I try to follow the instructions that came with the replacement top I had to install on my Roadster.. Don't drop it below 50 degs or so, the material is pretty stiff at lower temps and will be slow to fold fully into the boot..

 

Good posts already on the Z soft top.
I don't own a roadster.However,over the years,I've owned my share of converts.
The materials used on soft tops today is very durable given proper care.I agree,
there are lube points on every convert mechanism that need a shot of WD-40 ETC
at least once a year.One this that is utmost important with any convert top.
NEVER LOWER WHEN THE TOP IS WET.Lowering when the top is wet/damp will cause wrinkles that will not come out and really lower the life of your top.

 

Here is a link to the lube points. As far as I remember WD-40 is not appropriate lubricant for the links. It supposedly won't last. Nissan has a special grease that lasts a while. Anyways I hope this link helps.

http://www.myzroadster.com/Files/tsb.../NTB03-122.pdf

 

Great info... thx ....
I'm guessiung that +60 days in sub zero outdoor temps hasn't helped the rag top.

 

Great Info!!! I think this is whats wrong with my top as well.. Im going to try this before I take it to the Stealership. My 5th Bow was struggling and the last time I put the top down it had a hard time completeing the 5th bow when putting the top back up.. Im been scared ever since to put the top down because I dont want it to get stuck lol.

 

Mestiso, the fifth bow uses its own motor to deploy. If it moves a few inches, sputters to a stop then moves a few more inches or hesitates repeatedly, most likely you just need the brushes replaced in the motor. If the motor runs steadily, but bogs down almost grinding to a halt, then possibly the linkage that moves the sliders along the bottom of the panel are binding.

 

Try this product from Loctite . ( Loctite 8105 ) I put that **** on every thing . It is a very good quality grease with a good shear strength and does not creep under summer conditions . There are many uses for this stuff .

Gixxer

 

Hey all,

Any idea what's wrong with my roof, how much it would cost, &/or what I can do? Desperate for help!

My roof struggles to open in the very beginning. After that, it is fine until a last pause before it goes in. Here's a video of my top opening:

http://youtu.be/hmpd0sk4b9c


There's nothing wrong when it closes:

http://youtu.be/HZLezGE3jhM

Thank you!