nismo542

iTrader: (2)

i have read a hundred threads about different camber arms and how much adjustment they have for both + and - cambers. i am pretty much set on the SPC rear arms and toe bolts for sure, but i am undecided if i want to mess with upper a-arms for the front. i have an 07 nismo with the 18" and 19" rays wheels.

i know the issues with the SPC front a-arms and have found the fixes like using the oem castlenut and abs line braket or just not use the hub spacer if it isn't needed. i havent read any threads about the SPC being dangerous like breaking or anything and that is my main concern. also i am not gonna be tracking my car so i feel like SPL arms are a little overkill. i plan on setting my camber myself before getting an alignment using the infrared thermometer method after a quick ride to even the temerature across the tire. from what i have read that is the best way to make sure that i get all the tire on the pavement.

here are my questions that i havent been able to find exact answers to and i would like to hear from some members that are lowered 1.25 - 1.5 in since that is where i stand now with my stance coiolovers....

1. with a 1.25" drop in the front is there a need for the front camber arms? i know it differs from car to car but i am just wanting an idea of how bad the camber was off.

2. is there enough ajustment on the front to get toe back in spec after the drop even though camber cant be ajusted on the oem arms?

i know i need the rear camber kit like right now because i have major - camber in the rear, but if i need the fronts also i want to buy them as a combo to save a little $.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

1. really varies car to car. They don't all come with 1 alignment spec from the factory, there is a range that is acceptable. The more nominal yours is prior to lowering, the lower the camber will be once its dropped. Conversely, if you're already at the aggressive end of the scale prior to lowering, then even a small rideheight drop puts it out of spec.

2. toe can always be brought back to spec, it's adjustable via the tie rod ends

Given the small price difference between the SPC units up front and the SPL, there really is no decision that should be made - the choice becomes obvious. The SPL are lighter, much better made, and have none of the odd quirks that the SPC units do. It's a shame SPC couldn't really get the fronts quite right, as their rear kit works very well.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

After having to deal with SPC fronts and the ABS issue I would suggest staying far away from them as possible.

ChanceWarren

The way I've heard it, any more than .8 (4/5th) inch drop and you would be wise to get arms that provide adjustable camber. It may not be necessary, but better to err on the side of safety, yeah? Barring that, what Adam is saying is (obviously, as always) correct. It varies from car to car and considering the price difference, there's no reason to choose a lesser product.

In fact, I'm constantly shocked whenever I see the price of SPL's parts considering the quality... You'd pay 50% more for the same thing from Stillen, and from what I understand, Stillen's parts aren't lighter and you're stuck with those urethane bushings.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Correct statement for possibly needing the rear kit, not so much the front.

Rears tend to need the kit more than fronts, but with a 1.2+ drop on the fronts, you will prob need the kit up front.

Nissan suggests .8 or lower you might see alignment spec issues, hence why the Nismo suspension goes to .8 drop.

Just as Adam says, its totally a case by case basis. If your drop is 1.2 rear and 1 up front, you'll most likely need rears but possibly not fronts. If your drop is 1.2 all around or lower, you'll most likely need front and rear kits.

My advice, get your drop and get rear kit right off the bat. Install both. Go in for alignment, and if they cant get front in spec go ahead and order front arms and get installed. Paying extra shipping is better than ordering something you dont need.

CORNELL

iTrader: (3)

good advice, exactly what i did. GF210 + SPC rear kit, front camber is around -1.6 and i used the rear kit to adjust to -1.4 no issues daily driving.

Sleepy79

such as? (other than the shim/sensor bracket)

Crom

iTrader: (47)

Such as not using shims to adjust camber - having a greater range of adjustment and also being one of the best quality front camber arms made these cars. I'm at -3.5 camber on my fronts w/ my modified SPL's and I luv it. If you dont want to run cusco arms - get the SPL's or 350evos...EDIT - oops thought u were talkin about the fronts....

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

yep, we are talking about the fronts

the issues with the SPL's are well documented - they've had issues from the day they were released and even the 'revised' ones still are not up to snuff (my opinion)...we love their rear kit and keep tons on the shelf. If their front kit was worth selling, we would offer it too, but SPL really stepped up and now offers the nicest a arm out there, at a very reasonable price

nismo542

iTrader: (2)

thanks for all the input. i ordered the eibach rear kit from z1performance today and hopefully will see it really soon.

i am wanting to go the other way i need more + camber.

i can tell that the spl arm is high quality but i just cant see the benifit of spending the extra $115 bucks on an arm that is more than i need. my car is just a dd and not for track. it looks like the spc arm installed without the shims/abs bracket, would provide enough + for my need, and using my stock castle nut would solve all problems this arm has. if i could find a used spl arm for the price of a new cusco or spc arm i am on it. but i am still undecided.

i also dont want to have to pay for two alignments because that would be enough to go ahead with the spl unit up front.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Firestone offers lifetime alignments for a one time price that is alittle more than the cost of one alignment anywhere else.

This is a good deal for us car enthusiasts for exactly these reasons.

Even if you buy just rear kit and drop, get installed, go to Firestone for first alignment and pay for lifetime deal, then realize front cant get into spec.....your second, third, blah alignments are free...

I would suggest you check this out.

nismo542

iTrader: (2)

that firestone deal sounds great. i will have to check into that to see if my local firestone store has any competant aligners.

thanks

Sleepy79

SPC sends out a washer now, so there is no need to reuse the stock nut.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

OP - this answered your question , done and done...however,

Where SPL's arms are by far super sweet, for someone that doesn't plan to track the car, etc, i agree they are over kill.........for you....

To be honest, i see it this way, you mention that you would like to buy as a kit to save:

but, i think your best bet is to just buy the rear, install it, go to the alignment shop and see how far off you are up front........if your okay with it, then drive on, if not, then go get you some front arms.....

odds are your gonna need them historically with the Z, but "if" you need to spend SPL money over any other is up to you....

-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

YES! i agree! get an alignment package somewhere, firestone lifetime or NTB offers 1,3 and 5 year packages.......

believe it or not, i chose 5 year NTB over the firestone lifetime due to the in ground rack, etc of my local NTB in SA, luckily where i live now there is a new NTB with an in ground rack, so i must say i got lucky with that! but thats why i choose NTB over firestone.......plus it seems firestones are rare in comparison to NTB stores...

WITH THE Z - I highly recommend purchasing an alignment package, because with coil over suspension, camber arms and oem eccentric washer bolts mounting the rear camber arms you plan to buy, the Z seems to fall out of spec every so often! or maybe its just that i track my car and things go out of spec, but i find myself having to check and move my alignment quite often! both for track prep and for when things "slip"

Im working on making "lockout washers" for those of us that have rear adjustable camber arms so there wont be the possibility of rear camber arm slip due to the oem eccentric bolt but i havent gotten around to it......but i NEED TOooo...

-J

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Hows that project coming ? I wouldn't mind a fresh alignment with the new parts before i run streets of willow next month.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Its coming........im working on sourcing good material....

-J

nismo542

iTrader: (2)

i used my digital level today to see what my camber looks like before install the rear camber kit.

here are the numbers i have. i will have to compare them to the numbers i get when i get an alignment to see how close they are. the level has +/-0.1 degree accuracy and a zeroing feature to calibrate it to the level of the ground. so it should be very close to actual amount.

FL -1.7
FR -2.3

RL -3.1
RR -3.2

i dont really mind the -1.7 on the front left, but the front right being -2.3 is a little concerning. i have seen may members alignment number that are off like this and i dont know it is supposed to be off a little from side to side.

what i like about the SPC front arms is that they dont have preset adjustment points and i could get the sides close to the same camber.

could i get the camber closer from side to side using the SPL arms eventhough they use the plates? is there fine enough adjustment on the SPLs?

are the numbers close enough to oem range not to worry about it?

edit: JasonZ-YA what front arms are you running?

Sleepy79

what happens when you sit in the car?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I don't have any, on stockers....but SPL would be the way i would go due to complete adjustably..not just camber..

I'm on coilovers and have the height of my car set to where my front camber is -1.7 on both sides.

-J