My SIKKY LS2 install thread
07-10-2011, 02:47 PM
#1
My SIKKY LS2 install thread
I was hoping for someone else to beat me to this, but it appears that I will be the guinea pig. I will be posting up my experience with thw SIKKY LSX install kit and posting up pics and steps since the SIKKY kit is lacking in instructions. Most of the kit is straightforward so far, but some of it is a best guess until the engine is in the car with the headers installed.
I will start by pulling over a few posts I made in the LS swap thread.
I will start by pulling over a few posts I made in the LS swap thread.
07-10-2011, 03:04 PM
#3
Started the master cylinder swap today for the SIKKY kit. Thought I had some fail, but it turns out that the willwood washer is not the washer to use when swapping the Nissan push rod over, you use the one in the hardware pack. FYI, the pdf instructions at www.sikky.com have pictures that made it easy enough for even me to understand.
BTW, when I thought Ihad the wrong parts I called SIKKY. They requested some emailed pics, I sent them from my phone, they called 5 mins later to tell me to use the other washer. HOW'S THAT FOR SERVICE?!?!?
I got the SIKKY master cylinder kit on the car today... a few notes:
1. disconnect the stock clutch hard line before step one on the instructions
2. the washer to put on the final assembly is NOT the willwood washer, its in the packet of hardware
3. buy a set of metric wrenches with swivel heads on the open ended side, getting the pedal adjustment right to get the pin in is the hardest part. If you are old, out of shape or just plain fat you can forget about doing this yourself... it just about killed me as I am a bit of all 3 of the above.
Removing the dead pedal will help a bit, but its just crazy tight to get at. I would suggest fastening one side of the master to the firewall, check clearance and then back everything out again as needed. Also, start with the unit set to as short as possible and back it out to fit, not the other way around.
4. Having a second set of hands to help with the snap rings makes things much easier (a wife or GF is useable). You need a set of ring pliers that compresses the ring, not expands it. Oh, and FYI, when you remove the ring on the stock master cylinder it is under pressure and full of fluid (even if you drained it) and you will money shot yourself and ruin your clothes with brake fuild if not lucky or careful
Lastly, a question to those that have done this already... Where did you drill the hole for the SS line to go through the brake compartment to the trans? a picture would be great!!
I took a bunch of pics of this if anyone wants to see them.
BTW, when I thought Ihad the wrong parts I called SIKKY. They requested some emailed pics, I sent them from my phone, they called 5 mins later to tell me to use the other washer. HOW'S THAT FOR SERVICE?!?!?
I got the SIKKY master cylinder kit on the car today... a few notes:
1. disconnect the stock clutch hard line before step one on the instructions
2. the washer to put on the final assembly is NOT the willwood washer, its in the packet of hardware
3. buy a set of metric wrenches with swivel heads on the open ended side, getting the pedal adjustment right to get the pin in is the hardest part. If you are old, out of shape or just plain fat you can forget about doing this yourself... it just about killed me as I am a bit of all 3 of the above.
Removing the dead pedal will help a bit, but its just crazy tight to get at. I would suggest fastening one side of the master to the firewall, check clearance and then back everything out again as needed. Also, start with the unit set to as short as possible and back it out to fit, not the other way around.
4. Having a second set of hands to help with the snap rings makes things much easier (a wife or GF is useable). You need a set of ring pliers that compresses the ring, not expands it. Oh, and FYI, when you remove the ring on the stock master cylinder it is under pressure and full of fluid (even if you drained it) and you will money shot yourself and ruin your clothes with brake fuild if not lucky or careful
Lastly, a question to those that have done this already... Where did you drill the hole for the SS line to go through the brake compartment to the trans? a picture would be great!!
I took a bunch of pics of this if anyone wants to see them.
07-10-2011, 04:57 PM
#6
This is the clutch assembly from inside the car. The gold U joint has a cotter pin that is holding a push pin in place. Its where all the grease is, remove both pins to slide the master cylinder out.
Remove the rubber line from the master cylinder as well as the hard line. Do this BEFORE step 1 in the SIKKY instructions. Also, you should put down some rags or towels to catch the brake fluid that will seep out of the lines and unit.
Remove the nuts along the firewall and slide the stock unit out. Here is what it looks like.
Remove the black retainer clip with a small flathead screwdriver or a set of ring pliers that compress. I got a pair @ Harbor Freight for $5 that will adjust to compress or expand... you will need this tool. When you remove the ring, the spring will release and shoot out brake fluid, be aware of this.
Remove the rubber line from the master cylinder as well as the hard line. Do this BEFORE step 1 in the SIKKY instructions. Also, you should put down some rags or towels to catch the brake fluid that will seep out of the lines and unit.
Remove the nuts along the firewall and slide the stock unit out. Here is what it looks like.
Remove the black retainer clip with a small flathead screwdriver or a set of ring pliers that compress. I got a pair @ Harbor Freight for $5 that will adjust to compress or expand... you will need this tool. When you remove the ring, the spring will release and shoot out brake fluid, be aware of this.
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07-10-2011, 05:41 PM
#8
Here is the Willwood master, you need to use the ring pliers to compress the inner retaining ring and remove the black washer and shaft.
Here it is apart.
Now take the stock Nissan shaft and remove the U joint and stock washer.
Use the washer supplied in the hardware packet from SIKKY, not the stock Willwood or Nissan washers. Re-assemble the snap ring (two people make this much easier, on to push the shaft and washer down and one to put the snap ring back in place). Install the spacer per the instructions and bolt the Willwood master to the firewall. I forgot to get a picture of this part.
I found it to be easier to adjust the U joint to line up with the pedal assembly by removing the unit from the firewall and making the adjustment that way, rather than trying to do it while installed. It is VERY tight around the pedals and the angle is crazy awkward. When the U joint lines up with the pedal you will be able to slide the set pin back through and replace the cotter pin. IMO, adjusting the U joint to line up the set pin was the hardest part of this install.
SIKKY directions with some decent pics here:
http://www.sikky.com/images/pdf/1292...ll%20Guide.pdf
Here it is apart.
Now take the stock Nissan shaft and remove the U joint and stock washer.
Use the washer supplied in the hardware packet from SIKKY, not the stock Willwood or Nissan washers. Re-assemble the snap ring (two people make this much easier, on to push the shaft and washer down and one to put the snap ring back in place). Install the spacer per the instructions and bolt the Willwood master to the firewall. I forgot to get a picture of this part.
I found it to be easier to adjust the U joint to line up with the pedal assembly by removing the unit from the firewall and making the adjustment that way, rather than trying to do it while installed. It is VERY tight around the pedals and the angle is crazy awkward. When the U joint lines up with the pedal you will be able to slide the set pin back through and replace the cotter pin. IMO, adjusting the U joint to line up the set pin was the hardest part of this install.
SIKKY directions with some decent pics here:
http://www.sikky.com/images/pdf/1292...ll%20Guide.pdf
07-10-2011, 07:09 PM
#9
To finish the master cylinder install, cut the stock Nissan rubber hose and use the supplied fitting to connect it with the red rubber hose that attaches to the Willwood cylinder.
Next, you will need to drill a hole to pass the large end of the clutch line into the master cylinder compartment. This replaces the hard line that comes stock. I am gambling a bit here since I have no solid idea where the headers are going to sit with the engine in the car. You will make quick work of this step with an expansion bit for your drill.
I found a small open crease at the bottom of the brake cover area and just drilled it out. Here is the before:
And here is the after:
I am guessing that I will heat wrap the crap out of this line to attempt to prevent any clutch issues.
Next, you will need to drill a hole to pass the large end of the clutch line into the master cylinder compartment. This replaces the hard line that comes stock. I am gambling a bit here since I have no solid idea where the headers are going to sit with the engine in the car. You will make quick work of this step with an expansion bit for your drill.
I found a small open crease at the bottom of the brake cover area and just drilled it out. Here is the before:
And here is the after:
I am guessing that I will heat wrap the crap out of this line to attempt to prevent any clutch issues.
Last edited by Cass007; 07-10-2011 at 07:11 PM.
07-10-2011, 07:33 PM
#12
DO NOT PUT TEFLON TAPE ON THE SLAVE FITTINGS LIKE IN THE PICTURE... IT WILL LEAK, PUT THE FITTINGS TOGETHER DRY.
Next step is to remove the T56 trans from the engine if you haven't done so already. Very simple, just 8 or so 1/2 bolts and then pry it off. There are 2 locator pins, one on either side of the trans, once you free them it will just slide off. You can diesel it off by yourself, but two guys makes it very easy.
Once apart, remove the cap and spring assembly seen here by just pulling on it and it comes right off. Then remove the factory clutch line (if installed) and the bleeder plug (mine was just cut off). Now use a 10mm socket and remove the two bolts securing the slave assembly (why are these metric?).
Once the slave is removed, you will need a 1/8" punch to remove the roll pin that holds the clutch line in place (lower line on end of cast piece). Remove the line from the Willwood cylinder and push it in place while re-installing the roll pin, then attach the rest of the clutch line to the fitting. Install the bleeder fitting into the slave and attach the line as well. I used some teflon tape on the connection from the fittings to the line and tourqed them down pretty tight, I'm not sure if that is right or not, but there are zero specs for this in the instructions.
Run the lines out of the bell housing and attach the bleeder line to this mount on the side of the trans. I just followed the pics from SIKKY to orient the lines here. The trans is now complete.
Next step is to remove the T56 trans from the engine if you haven't done so already. Very simple, just 8 or so 1/2 bolts and then pry it off. There are 2 locator pins, one on either side of the trans, once you free them it will just slide off. You can diesel it off by yourself, but two guys makes it very easy.
Once apart, remove the cap and spring assembly seen here by just pulling on it and it comes right off. Then remove the factory clutch line (if installed) and the bleeder plug (mine was just cut off). Now use a 10mm socket and remove the two bolts securing the slave assembly (why are these metric?).
Once the slave is removed, you will need a 1/8" punch to remove the roll pin that holds the clutch line in place (lower line on end of cast piece). Remove the line from the Willwood cylinder and push it in place while re-installing the roll pin, then attach the rest of the clutch line to the fitting. Install the bleeder fitting into the slave and attach the line as well. I used some teflon tape on the connection from the fittings to the line and tourqed them down pretty tight, I'm not sure if that is right or not, but there are zero specs for this in the instructions.
Run the lines out of the bell housing and attach the bleeder line to this mount on the side of the trans. I just followed the pics from SIKKY to orient the lines here. The trans is now complete.
Last edited by Cass007; 08-31-2011 at 04:47 AM.
07-10-2011, 07:53 PM
#13
On to the power steering mod. Start by removing the stock rubber mounts from the crossmember. A five sided 17mm deep welll socket is good for this and I needed my breaker bar as well to get the nuts loose. An impact gun would be even better here if you have one.
Now remove the stock rubber line and hard line that connects to the Nissan assembly. Then remove the two mounting brackets (3 bolts) that secure the lines to the steering rack and remove the stock lines.
Install the blue SIKKY rubber hose and the J shaped side of the SIKKY power steering line to the Nissan assembly.
Again, there are no instructions here, but it seems by the shape of the hard line that the lines should run outside of the engine mount, but inside the crossmember. No way to be 100% sure until I mate the crossmember the engine and install the headers. Dont forget to tighten the fitting at both ends of the J shaped hard line (where it meets the blue flex hose).
A pic of the setup on the Nissan crossmember.
The end of the hard line (L shaped) connects to the LS steering pump and the rubber line connects to the LS power steering reservoir. The routing of the lines will be determined by how the drivers side header sits. I will update this once everything is together. I am doing my install a bit differen than SIKKY suggests and will be mounting everything onto the crossmember and then pressing it up into the car as a whole piece, this is what works with the VQ, so it should work with the LS.
Now remove the stock rubber line and hard line that connects to the Nissan assembly. Then remove the two mounting brackets (3 bolts) that secure the lines to the steering rack and remove the stock lines.
Install the blue SIKKY rubber hose and the J shaped side of the SIKKY power steering line to the Nissan assembly.
Again, there are no instructions here, but it seems by the shape of the hard line that the lines should run outside of the engine mount, but inside the crossmember. No way to be 100% sure until I mate the crossmember the engine and install the headers. Dont forget to tighten the fitting at both ends of the J shaped hard line (where it meets the blue flex hose).
A pic of the setup on the Nissan crossmember.
The end of the hard line (L shaped) connects to the LS steering pump and the rubber line connects to the LS power steering reservoir. The routing of the lines will be determined by how the drivers side header sits. I will update this once everything is together. I am doing my install a bit differen than SIKKY suggests and will be mounting everything onto the crossmember and then pressing it up into the car as a whole piece, this is what works with the VQ, so it should work with the LS.
07-10-2011, 08:09 PM
#14
EDIT... THERE IS A LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE TO THE SIKKY MOUNTS!!! THEY ARE LABELED D AND P IN VERY SMALL LETTERS ON THE BACK. PUT THE MOUNTS ON SO THAT SIKKY FACES THE FRONT OF THE CAR
Time to swap mounts on the LS. If you haven't already done so, remove the stock headers from the LS (6 bolts). Start by removing the spark plug wires, this may be the hardest pary, mine had more suction then a high priced hooker in vegas. I used some needle nosed pliers to grab onto the metal jackets to get some extra leverage. I have no idea how plugs will ever be changed in the car as hard as these were to remove
You will need to remove the stock dipstick in order to get the pass side header off. Just remove the bolt securing it to the block and pull it out of the pan (you can rotate it down for better leverage if needed).
Use the 3/8" drive socket with the long extension and a 1/2" socket and remove the 6 bolts holding the stock engine mounts in place. Mine came off super easy and didn't require any deiseling or heating bolts.
Use the supplied bolts to bolt up the SIKKY mounts. It seemed to work best to work the bolts up little by little in a criss-cross pattern. Tighten everything down with a 17mm socket. I didn't have any TQ specs here either, so I just made them TIGHT!!
Time to swap mounts on the LS. If you haven't already done so, remove the stock headers from the LS (6 bolts). Start by removing the spark plug wires, this may be the hardest pary, mine had more suction then a high priced hooker in vegas. I used some needle nosed pliers to grab onto the metal jackets to get some extra leverage. I have no idea how plugs will ever be changed in the car as hard as these were to remove
You will need to remove the stock dipstick in order to get the pass side header off. Just remove the bolt securing it to the block and pull it out of the pan (you can rotate it down for better leverage if needed).Use the 3/8" drive socket with the long extension and a 1/2" socket and remove the 6 bolts holding the stock engine mounts in place. Mine came off super easy and didn't require any deiseling or heating bolts.
Use the supplied bolts to bolt up the SIKKY mounts. It seemed to work best to work the bolts up little by little in a criss-cross pattern. Tighten everything down with a 17mm socket. I didn't have any TQ specs here either, so I just made them TIGHT!!
Last edited by Cass007; 07-21-2011 at 12:17 PM.
07-10-2011, 09:07 PM
#18
******
iTrader: (1)
Subbing so I got something to read in class. GL with this!
07-10-2011, 09:12 PM
#19
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Sub'd for future updates. Good luck on the build, Cass. 
