My SIKKY LS2 install thread
07-23-2011, 06:11 PM
#82
+1^ also there has to be some sort of vent to atmosphere with the box i believe, but i could be wrong.
just picked up my turbo piping from qwamen, welds look great and getting closer to finishing up this install.
lt1 3" y pipe + my old evo 3" downpipe made up my turbo piping from headers back lmao
just picked up my turbo piping from qwamen, welds look great and getting closer to finishing up this install.
lt1 3" y pipe + my old evo 3" downpipe made up my turbo piping from headers back lmao
07-23-2011, 06:55 PM
#83
ps what are you doing as far as connecting the alternator and starter to the battery? i have a bunch of heavy gauge audio wiring that i may use
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1318566
The real long bolts for the oil pan went back in fine, I had problems with the bolts at the front of the pan and the ones that went from the bottom of the pan and connect to the trans. Those trans ones were the ones I bought today at Lowes.
07-23-2011, 07:17 PM
#84
^are tyhe factory ls wires on a sub harness? maybe im thinking its like the z where a wire connects the battery to the starter and the alternator. is it the same for the ls or are there wires already in the oem harness for that? the ls alternator has the 1 red wire for the plug and thats it. i dont understand wiring lol, i hate it 
07-24-2011, 01:44 PM
#89
Back to it today... started by removing the stock LS PS reservoir, it is connected to the front engine hoist point and has two spots where the wiring attaches to it. Two 5/8" bolts and it is gone.
This was necessary to get the clearance needed for the intake. I will be swapping to a remote reservoir, most likely the KRC with the left hand outlet. I should have enough clearance to run a full 4" intake now, depends on hood clearance over the PS pump pulley.
This was necessary to get the clearance needed for the intake. I will be swapping to a remote reservoir, most likely the KRC with the left hand outlet. I should have enough clearance to run a full 4" intake now, depends on hood clearance over the PS pump pulley.
07-24-2011, 01:57 PM
#90
Also decided today that I may as well hookup the stock Nissan PS cooler. I will use the stock male to male coupler to attach to the SIKKY hose and just get some additional line to run through the Nissan intake opening. I had already relocated the cooler to a new location when I did the oil cooler setup on my other build.
This is where I plan to mount the oil filter, pass side frame rail just behind the radiator. I am using a self tapping screw for one hole and the larger factory hole for the other. The factory hole goes straight through the rail and is larger at the top, so I intend to use a nut and bolt on that and tighten it up from up top.
Also, I measured my Mishimoto radiator face area today and is 14" H x 28" W, so I will try to get two 12" Spal Puller fans in there using this attachment kit.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...53500/10002/-1
Fan Model #: VA10-AP10/C-61A (12")
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30100467
Got the Cusco sway bar mounted back up today. Thanks to Chris the Admin for his install thread for reference pics
This is where I plan to mount the oil filter, pass side frame rail just behind the radiator. I am using a self tapping screw for one hole and the larger factory hole for the other. The factory hole goes straight through the rail and is larger at the top, so I intend to use a nut and bolt on that and tighten it up from up top.
Also, I measured my Mishimoto radiator face area today and is 14" H x 28" W, so I will try to get two 12" Spal Puller fans in there using this attachment kit.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...53500/10002/-1
Fan Model #: VA10-AP10/C-61A (12")
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30100467
Got the Cusco sway bar mounted back up today. Thanks to Chris the Admin for his install thread for reference pics
07-24-2011, 02:10 PM
#91
Installed the two lower O2 sensors in the bungs on the headers and secured the Innovate WB box the the pass side of the trans. I will plan ahead for F/I and have a bung installed in the mid pipes that will be fabbed to connect the APS 3" exhaust to the SIKKY headers.
I also finshed up installing the two longer bolts at the bottom rear of the oil pan. These should come with the SIKKY kit
You can also see the location of the two crazy long bolt for the oil pan in this shot, they are the ones going vertical from underneath.
Since I was already dirty and working under the car I decided to knock out the drive shaft next. Hung a rag over the center core support and slid it in from the rear to the front. Line up the splines and then start bolting it up in back. Leave the parking brake off and trans in neutral so you can rotate the rear wheels to move the drive shaft around and put bolts in easier. Two 17mm wrenches worked like a champ.
I also finshed up installing the two longer bolts at the bottom rear of the oil pan. These should come with the SIKKY kit
You can also see the location of the two crazy long bolt for the oil pan in this shot, they are the ones going vertical from underneath.
Since I was already dirty and working under the car I decided to knock out the drive shaft next. Hung a rag over the center core support and slid it in from the rear to the front. Line up the splines and then start bolting it up in back. Leave the parking brake off and trans in neutral so you can rotate the rear wheels to move the drive shaft around and put bolts in easier. Two 17mm wrenches worked like a champ.
07-24-2011, 02:22 PM
#92
I started looking at the sub harness today as promised. It connects the starter, AC compressor and alternator. There is another connection with a plug and small gound too. Looks like this:
Also had a second ground wire attached with fittings already on it. I have no idea what this is for
Took the sheathing off and here is what I found. The plug is for the starter (its the purple wire), the main ground is going to the AC compressor. The large red power wires are going to the alternator and starter. No idea on the smaller ground, it may just have been a secondary ground.
Also had a second ground wire attached with fittings already on it. I have no idea what this is for
Took the sheathing off and here is what I found. The plug is for the starter (its the purple wire), the main ground is going to the AC compressor. The large red power wires are going to the alternator and starter. No idea on the smaller ground, it may just have been a secondary ground.
07-24-2011, 02:33 PM
#93
Here is the ground to the back of the AC compressor. No power wire to be found, maybe just power through the harness plug... who freakin knows:
Here is the starter, the top bolt is the purple wire connection and the middle one is the power wire, so the bottom must be the ground, but the is no wire currently connected to it. Maybe the smaller ground I have is for that
The last red wire terminates at the back of the alternator. I looked everywhere expecting a ground to come off the alternator, but didn't see anything... wiring makes me want to puke and punch an engineer in the face. Where is Big Cloud to make sense of this...
Here is the starter, the top bolt is the purple wire connection and the middle one is the power wire, so the bottom must be the ground, but the is no wire currently connected to it. Maybe the smaller ground I have is for that
The last red wire terminates at the back of the alternator. I looked everywhere expecting a ground to come off the alternator, but didn't see anything... wiring makes me want to puke and punch an engineer in the face. Where is Big Cloud to make sense of this...
07-24-2011, 02:40 PM
#94
Some random BS I checked today:
The upper and lower radiator hose mounts on my Mishimoto are roughly 35mm
The upper LS coolant mount is ~35mm
The lower LS coolant mount is ~40mm
For guys that have hooked up their hoses already, did you just push the 35mm hose over the larger lower LS mount, or get some kind of expansion fitting?
The heater core connections and matching LS connections are ~18-20mm and require four 90* bends. My LS connections are capped red and blue.
Does it make a difference which LS connection is connected to which heater core hookup?
Pictures are appreciated as always... Thanks Guys!!
The upper and lower radiator hose mounts on my Mishimoto are roughly 35mm
The upper LS coolant mount is ~35mm
The lower LS coolant mount is ~40mm
For guys that have hooked up their hoses already, did you just push the 35mm hose over the larger lower LS mount, or get some kind of expansion fitting?
The heater core connections and matching LS connections are ~18-20mm and require four 90* bends. My LS connections are capped red and blue.
Does it make a difference which LS connection is connected to which heater core hookup?
Pictures are appreciated as always... Thanks Guys!!
07-28-2011, 04:46 AM
#97
I picked up the battery connect yesterday at the local NAPA store as well and the steering knuckle came in too, so that is today's project. I bought several feet of 3/4" heater hose to plumb that today as well. I will try to route it so I can use just plain hose and will see if it kinks before spending dollars on a solution.
Finally, I have a soulution to my remote filter application and will buy a larger filter to mount to my VQ post. The Defi temp sensor bottoms out before it completely seals, so now I have a different issue to deal with... it never ends.
07-28-2011, 03:09 PM
#99
I had to ditch the KRC PS reservoir I bought since I just couldn't find a way to mount it correctly. I cut the stock mounting bracket off the the LS hoist mount with a dremel and swung it over and zip tied it to part of the engine compartment.
I should have enough room for a full 4" intake on that side now. All I need is one piece of 90* hose to finish up the pump connection and that is buttoned up. I also finished up with the PS cooler as well.
I should have enough room for a full 4" intake on that side now. All I need is one piece of 90* hose to finish up the pump connection and that is buttoned up. I also finished up with the PS cooler as well.
07-28-2011, 03:20 PM
#100
As usual, today started with a plan that quickly went sideways. I realized that the fuel lines were now routed right up against the headers on the passenger side, so I had to pull them down around and re-route them along the trans and up from the center of the car.
I bought the fuel and return line over to the center by passing them under the small underpan tray about halfway down the pass side door. Then found a couple of good spots on the trans to zip tie to and it ended up right where I needed it.
Getting the fuel line down through the headers wasn't an easy task and took a while. Best to do this step prior to installing the engine and trans.
I bought the fuel and return line over to the center by passing them under the small underpan tray about halfway down the pass side door. Then found a couple of good spots on the trans to zip tie to and it ended up right where I needed it.
Getting the fuel line down through the headers wasn't an easy task and took a while. Best to do this step prior to installing the engine and trans.