amp too much for my speakers?
ok i got some SPS-171A
• Peak Power 250W
• 50W RMS Power
and my amp is a MRV-F340
130Wx2 or 65Wx4 4ohm
in the thing that tells about the speakers it say that they sound fine with our with out and amp. "Best of all, they perform great with the power from head units, so you can use them with or without an amplifier. ? i realy kinda want to sell the amp i think i could get a little over 200 bucks for it. so will i realy regret selling it if i do. (i know it will sound better but will it realy sound 200 somthing dollars better, the hu has a nice amp in it for an hu and alpine says the type s speakers do fine on hu power.)
my hu is a alpine cda-9833 with 26rms and 60W MAX x 4 V-Drive™ Power Amplifier. in it.
my other option would be to get the type-r alpine componets. but thats more cash and they are still only 70watts rms 350watts max.
i know i have already asked advice on this subject before but i still am undecided.
• Peak Power 250W
• 50W RMS Power
and my amp is a MRV-F340
130Wx2 or 65Wx4 4ohm
in the thing that tells about the speakers it say that they sound fine with our with out and amp. "Best of all, they perform great with the power from head units, so you can use them with or without an amplifier. ? i realy kinda want to sell the amp i think i could get a little over 200 bucks for it. so will i realy regret selling it if i do. (i know it will sound better but will it realy sound 200 somthing dollars better, the hu has a nice amp in it for an hu and alpine says the type s speakers do fine on hu power.)
my hu is a alpine cda-9833 with 26rms and 60W MAX x 4 V-Drive™ Power Amplifier. in it.
my other option would be to get the type-r alpine componets. but thats more cash and they are still only 70watts rms 350watts max.
i know i have already asked advice on this subject before but i still am undecided.
This might be hard to understand but pure clean power will rarely blow a set of speakers - a sound levels that are reasonable. If you're entertaining an outdoor theater with your system you're got issues.
I use to work at a custom car stereo place way back in the day. We'd replace Jensen and Pioneer 6x9's that were rated to handle 100 to 120 watts that were blown with cheap Clairon 40W equalizer/amplifiers.
The problem is that when an amp clips the power remains constant at the maximum for a brief portion of a second. Normally a speaker disipates the energy as movement of the cone and heat - then the clipped wave hits the cone stops moving the only way to disipate the energy is pure heat ... and you'll melt/burn the coil pretty quickly.
If you've got an ear to hear clipping - or even care - you can run big amps into smaller speakers without a problem ... again not for hours and hours.
For years I ran a 150w/channel Zapco amplifier into speakers rated for 60 watts without an issue. What an amplifier does is allow you to hit the dynamics when you need them - even when not cranking at high SPL levels. Most modern music - the last 15 to 20 years worth has very little dynamic range - it's all super compressed to sound as loud as possible. I enjoy older music - classic rock - that has dynamics to it and the amplifier helps hit the highs.
I use to work at a custom car stereo place way back in the day. We'd replace Jensen and Pioneer 6x9's that were rated to handle 100 to 120 watts that were blown with cheap Clairon 40W equalizer/amplifiers.
The problem is that when an amp clips the power remains constant at the maximum for a brief portion of a second. Normally a speaker disipates the energy as movement of the cone and heat - then the clipped wave hits the cone stops moving the only way to disipate the energy is pure heat ... and you'll melt/burn the coil pretty quickly.
If you've got an ear to hear clipping - or even care - you can run big amps into smaller speakers without a problem ... again not for hours and hours.
For years I ran a 150w/channel Zapco amplifier into speakers rated for 60 watts without an issue. What an amplifier does is allow you to hit the dynamics when you need them - even when not cranking at high SPL levels. Most modern music - the last 15 to 20 years worth has very little dynamic range - it's all super compressed to sound as loud as possible. I enjoy older music - classic rock - that has dynamics to it and the amplifier helps hit the highs.
Originally Posted by Paul350Z
This might be hard to understand but pure clean power will rarely blow a set of speakers - a sound levels that are reasonable. If you're entertaining an outdoor theater with your system you're got issues.
I use to work at a custom car stereo place way back in the day. We'd replace Jensen and Pioneer 6x9's that were rated to handle 100 to 120 watts that were blown with cheap Clairon 40W equalizer/amplifiers.
The problem is that when an amp clips the power remains constant at the maximum for a brief portion of a second. Normally a speaker disipates the energy as movement of the cone and heat - then the clipped wave hits the cone stops moving the only way to disipate the energy is pure heat ... and you'll melt/burn the coil pretty quickly.
If you've got an ear to hear clipping - or even care - you can run big amps into smaller speakers without a problem ... again not for hours and hours.
For years I ran a 150w/channel Zapco amplifier into speakers rated for 60 watts without an issue. What an amplifier does is allow you to hit the dynamics when you need them - even when not cranking at high SPL levels. Most modern music - the last 15 to 20 years worth has very little dynamic range - it's all super compressed to sound as loud as possible. I enjoy older music - classic rock - that has dynamics to it and the amplifier helps hit the highs.
I use to work at a custom car stereo place way back in the day. We'd replace Jensen and Pioneer 6x9's that were rated to handle 100 to 120 watts that were blown with cheap Clairon 40W equalizer/amplifiers.
The problem is that when an amp clips the power remains constant at the maximum for a brief portion of a second. Normally a speaker disipates the energy as movement of the cone and heat - then the clipped wave hits the cone stops moving the only way to disipate the energy is pure heat ... and you'll melt/burn the coil pretty quickly.
If you've got an ear to hear clipping - or even care - you can run big amps into smaller speakers without a problem ... again not for hours and hours.
For years I ran a 150w/channel Zapco amplifier into speakers rated for 60 watts without an issue. What an amplifier does is allow you to hit the dynamics when you need them - even when not cranking at high SPL levels. Most modern music - the last 15 to 20 years worth has very little dynamic range - it's all super compressed to sound as loud as possible. I enjoy older music - classic rock - that has dynamics to it and the amplifier helps hit the highs.
yay thank you paul
*edit* USMMA class of 09
thanks this helped a ton should i still bridge the amp and just run it on the front or not bridge it and power all four speakers off of it.... the ther two are the alpine type-s coaxles...
• Peak Power 200W
• 40W RMS Power
these are the only speakers in my car right now and im runningthem off the hu for the moment. i heard them clip alot manly on the bass, when turned up alot. they were moveing alot so i dont know if it was a speaker clipping or the amp. i have resently set the crossover on the hu and they dont clip but now they make almost no bass. although i do have a sub to help.
• Peak Power 200W
• 40W RMS Power
these are the only speakers in my car right now and im runningthem off the hu for the moment. i heard them clip alot manly on the bass, when turned up alot. they were moveing alot so i dont know if it was a speaker clipping or the amp. i have resently set the crossover on the hu and they dont clip but now they make almost no bass. although i do have a sub to help.
Do you plan to add a sub? What you could do is run the front two channels of the amp on your front speakers and bridge the rear two channels to mono for a sub(s). Then use the hu to power the rear coaxials.
Your hu has a x-over in it so you might try using it to filter out the low bass. YOu may find that using the xover you get more clean volume and won't need the amp.
Your hu has a x-over in it so you might try using it to filter out the low bass. YOu may find that using the xover you get more clean volume and won't need the amp.
Last edited by KenWH; Apr 27, 2005 at 10:26 AM.
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Originally Posted by KenWH
Do you plan to add a sub? What you could do is run the front two channels of the amp on your front speakers and bridge the rear two channels to mono for a sub(s). Then use the hu to power the rear coaxials.
Your hu has a x-over in it so you might try using it to filter out the low bass. YOu may find that using the xover you get more clean volume and won't need the amp.
Your hu has a x-over in it so you might try using it to filter out the low bass. YOu may find that using the xover you get more clean volume and won't need the amp.
Hes got a pimptastic sub enclosure.
thanks this helped a ton should i still bridge the amp and just run it on the front or not bridge it and power all four speakers off of it.... the ther two are the alpine type-s coaxles...
• Peak Power 200W
• 40W RMS Power
these are the only speakers in my car right now and im runningthem off the hu for the moment. i heard them clip alot manly on the bass, when turned up alot. they were moveing alot so i dont know if it was a speaker clipping or the amp. i have resently set the crossover on the hu and they dont clip but now they make almost no bass. although i do have a sub to help.
• Peak Power 200W
• 40W RMS Power
these are the only speakers in my car right now and im runningthem off the hu for the moment. i heard them clip alot manly on the bass, when turned up alot. they were moveing alot so i dont know if it was a speaker clipping or the amp. i have resently set the crossover on the hu and they dont clip but now they make almost no bass. although i do have a sub to help.
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