tacomaboy

The eDead version 1 (non-SE) is thinner, and I have heard it doesnt stick as well, but I dont think it smells worse, and I still dont think its what the hardware store would sell...

but, just trying to help ya out... it tends to be cheaper... and is good stuff.

TXSTYLE

iTrader: (1)

Maybe you're right about the eDead. I appreciate all the feedback guys no question!
I just want to do this right the first time around as suggested. It ain't fun tearing your ride down over and over.

WhiteZed

iTrader: (8)

YES do it properly the 1st time, if you dont listin to people you will have to do it the hard way.

i did sprectrum v3 on my trunk area, doors and in the cubby areas..
oh and the underside of the wheel wells

*cubby areas are still not 100% finished*
i ordered 2 gallons of v3, i have done 2 coats and i still have about half a gallon left...

bass is 100% better,
muffler drone in down quite a bit

road noise is a little bit better, but not much.
i have not got around to getting foam or whatever i am going to use yet..
but i will soon..

i am still to V3 my floor.....

i was thinking since the V3 can handle ridiclious temps, to get some B quite, dampining mat over the top of some of the V3, just really to make it look a little nicer, that way Temp wont be an issue with the mats getting to hot and even melting

Plus B Quiet mat is pretty cheap ...
50 sq feet will do the job .....

then foam/felt/jute whatever will go over the top to get rid of all road noise.

last stage will be some nice new tires...

dannichols

Don't rule out tires guys. I was going crazy trying to reduce road noise and then one day the dealership told me my tires were feathering andwould need to be replaced free. After the replacement, there was instantly 25% less road noise in the vehicle. The other great reduction like I said came from multiple layers, no single product cured it all. My best reductions were with a layer of dampener (Extreme) & coats of Spectrum on top of it (or the other way around). Then, on top of that, a layer of something absorbant (jute or open/closed cell acoustic foam (similar to eggcrate or recording studio foam)), then a layer of something barrier-like, such as closed cell foam (Neoprene).

WhiteZed

iTrader: (8)

i got all my info from dannichols when i was looking into deadening my car
and i will say he is 100% right in whatever he says...

and yes tires are the big problem, i have had mine fixed, but the noise remains.. so i still need some nice new ones ..

i agree with not 1 product will fix it all, you need to do more...

the only problem with that is, it takes time to rip your car apart, wait for the sprectrum to dry, put car back together, pull it apart, put some more in, wait.. and so on.... and then put the next product down.. and so on and so on ..

i guess in the end it is def worth it...

i know some people have weight issues, but i can safley say i dont mind putting a few extra lbs on the car to make it a better place to be..

i hate the comment .. its a sports car, not a luxury car, if you want luxury go buy a BMW ..

for starters the zed is HOT... and for the price it is great. *besides feathering and what not**
add a few hours and few $$ on things like deadeding....
you still have a fast / hot car, that is nice to be inside..

plus BMWs are crazy expencive..........
i looked at a second hand BMWs when i was car shopping... the zed was still cheaper... and new

dannichols

Thanks zed, I got some workpales heading out to Australia this weekend. Sure you don't need any cheap parts from the Nissan dealership here in Cali? :-)

Oh one more suggestion all...pay close attention to the cubby areas. Check them out in there with a flashlight and you'll see what I mean. The fuel pumps create quite a hiss and the tanks don't block much noise from entering the cabin. I would cover this whole area well. Aslo, check out along the sides in there and notice the gaping holes around the seat belt housing leading to the outer qtr panel. Big improvements can be made by minimizing the gaps and covering the area with multiple layers.

WhiteZed

iTrader: (8)

why not just get me a whole new zed, and ill use it for parts??

be a lot cheaper !!!!!

damn spare parts and there 1200% mark up ....

Srivero297

iTrader: (2)

Heyy... guess Im a little late but I need to jump in on this topic too. Im in the process of building my custom setup right now in my trunk, and I know Im going to have to dynamat the hell out of it because Im running huge subs at high power. Two iDMAX 12s at 1250 watts each at 1ohm resistance. Yeah.. so, I was planning on dynamatting the entire area from behind the taillights, under the spare tire area, strut bar, above the wheel wells, behind the speakers, glove compartment and stock sub location, and all of the side panels, maybe the hatch too?

I was looking into buying Dynamat Extreme. Whats this about liquid stuff too though?? I've never heard of or seen such a thing... I mean, Im not very experienced in soundproofing, but the only thing Ive seen is the shiny metallic looking foam-like padding like Dynamat. whats this liquid soundproofing, how much does it cost, and can I benefit from it in conjunction with dynamat extreme? Like, will they stack with each other or is it a one or the other type deal? I thought I remember someone saying something about soundproofing the under side of the wheel wells?

Basically, Im asking you guys what am I leaving out? What else do I need to do/buy? I hate rattles. Im even thinking of putting some soundproofing around my shifter because at high rpms I get a rattle from my short shifter.

TXSTYLE

iTrader: (1)

Well let me first say..... If you are using a ton of dynamat ex, you are gonna add a TON of weight plain & simple. That shiz is heavy! I'm going to use a similar product as dyn ex, but in limeited and critical spots. I obtained some jute (carpet cushion) and I'm gonna use some spectrum (second skin) liquid stuff. There are links in this thread above Srivero for more info.
Good luck...

dannichols

The liquid we're referring to in Spectrum from Secondskin. A thick vibration dampener similar to others on the market. It's advantage is that it will conform a lot easier to irregular surfaces, can be used on the outside of the vehicle, and has a little better noise suppression than the mats. It's disadvatage is it can be messy, requires more time and possibly multiple coats, and doesn't stick well to shiny painted surfaces.

But the bottom line is that the liquid is still in the same category as dynamt or other mats: vibration dampeners. These products for the most part add weight to a panel to stop it from rattling and buzzing when the music is pumped up. This is called mass loading and will work wonders if you are primarily trying to reduce rattles caused by a subwoofer. Vibration dampeners can reduce some road/exterior noise too..but not much. This is often what you will hear from guys who throw on 50 - 100 sq ft of matting/liquid -- Worked great to reduce rattles..but reoad/tire noise is still there.

If you're looking to significantly reduce road noise than you have to look at the other two areas of soundproofing: barriers and absorbers. Barriers stop a range and amount of soundwaves, while absorbers absorb some of the remaining sound. The most common barriers you will see are vinyl and lead. The most common absorbers are acoustic foam and jute. Acoustic foams are unique in that their cell type (open vs closed vs semi-open) control the amount of sound waves that are blocked or absorbed. So in that respect they can act as a barrier too (closed cell neoprene).

If your looking for the best in road sound control then a multi-layer combination will be the solution. You can purchase many products pre-configured to do this function, such as Luxury liner, Extreme Liner, etc.. They are basically a barrier (vinyl), covered with an absorber (foam), then another barrier (lead) covered again with foam.. Problem with these products is they are VERY heavy (> 1 lb sq ft) and they are very thick and difficult to get in tight spaces. For me personally, this realization led me to use a lighter combination. I used 50 sq ft of Dynamat Extreme in the areas most prone to rattles. I covered the entire floor pan, cobby area, and inner/outer wheel wells with 2 gals of liquid (some areas were liquid over dynamat matting) Then on top of all of these dampeners I added a layer of 1/8" neoprene and also a layer of acoustic foam (thin stuff 1/4") wherever it was possible. In some spots (underside of carpet) I added a second layer of neoprene on top of all of it too. I also put foam/neoprene behind side panels and in the cubby areas/trunk. All said and done my car is very quiet..not as quite as the Jag I had previously...but also not as heavy (total weight of my Z soundproofing 60lbs).

Srivero297

iTrader: (2)

I can deal with 60lbs. I mean, Im throwing in two subs that are like 30lbs a piece and then two amps that are like 20 a piece, plus capacitators, a crapload of wood and fiberglass and whatnot for my custom setup... and I didnt even mention my three batteries did I? heh... Yeah, the weight is the least of my worries compared to the rattles that these things could put out. Im not worried too much about road noise, but rattles really get on my nerves.

I usually go top of the line with everything. I figure "pay more now, pay less later" type of deal. So, I'll probably go all out on the soundproofing like you were describing. I'll still get the Dynamat extreme for all of the regular places, and then for the difficult places plus the wheel wells I'll do the liquid.

Just to double check- you said you put the liquid on OVER the dynamat?
And is there any specific neoprene/acoustic foam products that you used? Where would you buy it??

And about the spectrum liquid-- is it like a thick syrup??
Like.. have you ever worked with fiberglass resin? You know how its like a thick syrup and then you have to mix in the hardener liquid and then spread it and it hardens? Is that how it works?

Thanks for all the help!

WhiteZed

iTrader: (8)

spectrum V3 is so good

thick as peanut butter, and pretty simple to apply

before i did the V3 the floor in my trunk was hot enough to fry an egg... that is no lie ......

2 coats of V3, no heat gets thru at all... and that is also no lie...
im trying to be as truthfull with out stretching the truth..

bass and mids improved 100%
didnt do much for road noise

have some stuff on order for that atm...

the only reason i wish to install the Bquiet dampining mat over the top, is just to make it look a little neater.... not that you see it at all, but i guess an extra layer of product cant hurt eh ????

WhiteZed

iTrader: (8)

you dont have to mix hardener with it
its just a paste that comes in a tub and away you go,
drying time is about 24 hours

i think its touch dry after about 3 ...
depends on weather...

i did it on a cold day/night

so maybe even 12 hours during the warmer days

TXSTYLE

iTrader: (1)

Looks like I'm gonna go with this combo:

Spectrum V3
Jute
eDead

And I see yall's point about 'road noise'. That would require alot more extensive applications throughout the entire vehicle! So I'm gonna strategically place the above items for "optimum sound" from my system and probably the rear wheel wells (so foking lound!)
Now then, WhiteZed & dannicols, given what I just said, where are the "critical & optimum" spots I should focus on?

Thanks!

dannichols

Hey, ya'll get up pretty early in the morning! Well WhiteZ you have an advantage that it's already tomorrow down under :-)

Like WZ, I used a couple gallons of Spectrum, but mine was the V.2 which used to be their standard and now is the product they recommend if you're gonna be spraying it on. I have done a lot of fiberglassing, the spectrum is not the same as resin. V.2 is like really thick paint with sand added to it. It's so thick that it won't run down a vertical surface. You can use a brush or trowel, or maybe even spray its an open area and you have the equipment and correct gun. V.3 is supposed to be the thickest stuff out there, I haven't seen it. On a peculiar note, if you check out Cascade's site, looks like they have similar if not the same products (VB-1X and VB-1). Cascade, B-Quiet, Edead, Dynamat, Roadkill, Fatmat, and others are all excellent places to search for mats and foams. There's also a liquidator on Ebay for acoustic foam, I picked up my neoprene there. They have sizes ranging from 1/8" to 2"

Places to concentrate on..

acoustic dampening for reduced rattles.. matting/liquid around all speakers, inner and outer door skin, trunk. Thin acoustic foam behind plastic panels. The rest - play by ear, based on where your sub is located may require plenty more in extreme rear near inner bumper, wheel wells, cubby, etc.

Road noise.. Think of the tires (hitting the road) as speakers and concentrate on the area that that noise would emenate to. So you are talking about front kicks, below dash and area below passenger's feet. Front, lower, and rear of doors, outer edge of floor pan, inside cubby and wall where seat belt tensioner is, rear inner wheel wells and trunk floor, all outer wheel wells. These are the areas where you want to do the (more is more) approach. Layer of matting or liquid -- followed by liquid -- followed by open cell foam -- followed by closed cell foam. The closer to the tire, the more important these layers will be. Cubby area turned out to be a lot more important than I thought. Sound emenates easily throught the thin metal of the fuel cells and the sides where there are gaping holes for the seat belt tensioners.

From what I've read, mattngs and the liquid do block some sound.. not much but some. And what is blocked is a limited frequency range. The combination of open cell/closed cell foams on top will take care of much of the remaining sound (or jute). One method I took was to take out the panels, seats & carpet, lay out and apply my matting, then liquid the entire horizontal surface and inner doors. Once dry, apply foams or jute based on the location, space under carpet, ease of access, etc. You may find that some areas are more suited for thick foam (cubby) and others will be better suited with thin (below passenger feet). The floor pan is not an even surface, there are hills and valleys so be prepared for that. There's also stock jute, styrofoam, and matting under there.

While the carpet was out I flipped it over and applied my top layer (closed cell neoprene) to the underside. You can buy this as Overkill on the Secondskinaudio site or on Ebay. I used 3M #90 spray to adhere it. You may also want to first attach the neoprene to a thin layer of drawer liner (Lowe's) so if you ever need to remove it it won't come off in chunks.

End result, I can crank up my system to max levels without any rattles and when I'm cruising the local highway, the wind noise is actually just louder than any road noise, so I am happy and you will be to.