neur0sis

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone put Dynamat/Fat Mat / BrownBread, etc... on the interior door skin? Not the regular metal area that the the window motor / brackets / window rail bolts to... but the actual door skin itself?

Im getting some vibration in there and wondered how it was accessed... Has anyone done this?

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

About 75% of the door - the top part has a cloth-like pad on it. The bottom and back parts are wide open. I've got some FatMat that I'm going lay into mine. The cloth just comes off pretty simply allowing you to get to the plastic below. I'll put some on the steel shell of the door as well.

The best way to fix the vibration is to get it at the source. There are four screws that hold the door panel to the door so it might be something inside vibrating - the two cables that work the lock and the door latch are foam padded so they might be the problem. There's also a bunch of wires that run to the speakers, the power window/locks, and to the heated mirrors if so equipted. I'd wrap those guys in electrical tape to see if that fixes them.

Taking the door panel off is pretty easy.

neur0sis

iTrader: (3)

I guessed I phrased it wrong... its the OUTSIDE door skin...

Once you take the panel off, and you're looking at the door frame itself... I want to deaden whats BEHIND the speaker magnet. (where the window is, inside the shell) Make sense?

If I have my music playing loud, I get a vibration in the metal, that if I hold my hand on the OUTSIDE of the car door, goes away.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

Dang that's going to be hard to get to as the inner skin behind the plastic panel is metal and it covers everything outside that speaker hole. I'd be afraid of using foam fill to try to get it. I wonder what's in there that's causing the problem? The inner skin must un bolt from the frame. I can look once I get home as my plastic door skins are still off.

dannichols

Actually I may be the only one that has done what you are talking about. Only because my door was completely apart when a PDR was fixing some door dings. There is a metal panel that attaches to the door with about 10 screws, behind this panel is the window motor, guide rails, and the window. While my door was dissasembled I coated the "inside" or back-side of that panel with multiple layers of dampening liquid (Spectrum II). Let it dry before reassembly.

I would warn against taking your door apart in this fashion though. Why? Because the screw that hold the window rails in place (4 of em) are a PAIN to get back to factory calibration. This screws control the exact angle at which the window will raise and lower and the height that the window will sit when fully up. If you get this wrong you will have a ton of wind noise (took me 2 weeks to correct).

I've also had luck using 1/8" Neoprene foam on the inside of the door panel (the picture Paul shows above.)

One thing you would notice with the panel out and the window up is the factory dampener pad. it runs the length of the door from about half way down to the bottom. It is like Dynamat but harder. If you get a door ding on the lower section of the door in front of this dampener, forget taking it out.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

That was close! I just got 50 square feet of FatMat in the mail today and was looking really hard at pulling the inner metal door skin off. I think I'll put a bit of foam rubber in the bottom and then line the outside of the inner skin.