help
#1
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help
ok i know nothing about sub woofers exept the fact that they add bass to your sound. and me likey. so im asking for help from you guys that actually know this stuff to pick out a system. no hurry either. i get my 350 in december.
i plan on getting 2 10 inch subs and thats basically all i know besides the fact that i need amps and an enclosure.
thanks in advance. -pat
i plan on getting 2 10 inch subs and thats basically all i know besides the fact that i need amps and an enclosure.
thanks in advance. -pat
#2
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2 10's is overkill for our cars imo. Unless of course you listen to mostly rapp.
Do not use the factory sub or tweeter locations if at all possible.
Replacing the rears is not critical. If you are keeping the factory head unit then you'll also want to install a bass **** to assist in bass control (I did this "phase I and it sounded awesome).
Here is what I have/did:
Phase I:
- Focal 165k2p front speakers
- JL 300/4 amp (located in factory sub location)
- AlumaPro 10" sub /w custom enclosure under rear strut brace
-Bass ****
This kicked a$$. I had also installed an aftermarket Nav but wasn't able to integrate with the Bose HU for sound. Plus it is valet parking where I work & although they take very good care of my car, they also liked messing with the stereo and eating lunch in it so;
Phase II:
- Pioneer 7700 HU
- Pioneer SDV-P7 in Dash DVD (ties to nav screen)
-JL 300/2 Amp (used it to drive just the fronts from phase I)
- Focal 165CX rears (used Phase I amp here plus the sub which was bridged previously)
- Pioneer 6 disk CD
- Sirius Radio
Hope this helps. I'm no expert by any means but I know this setup kicks serious a$$ and did so even befor I did the second part.
Pic's are from phase I. I have since removed that Nav steering wheel remote. I found I didn't use it plus it was quite ugly imo.
Do not use the factory sub or tweeter locations if at all possible.
Replacing the rears is not critical. If you are keeping the factory head unit then you'll also want to install a bass **** to assist in bass control (I did this "phase I and it sounded awesome).
Here is what I have/did:
Phase I:
- Focal 165k2p front speakers
- JL 300/4 amp (located in factory sub location)
- AlumaPro 10" sub /w custom enclosure under rear strut brace
-Bass ****
This kicked a$$. I had also installed an aftermarket Nav but wasn't able to integrate with the Bose HU for sound. Plus it is valet parking where I work & although they take very good care of my car, they also liked messing with the stereo and eating lunch in it so;
Phase II:
- Pioneer 7700 HU
- Pioneer SDV-P7 in Dash DVD (ties to nav screen)
-JL 300/2 Amp (used it to drive just the fronts from phase I)
- Focal 165CX rears (used Phase I amp here plus the sub which was bridged previously)
- Pioneer 6 disk CD
- Sirius Radio
Hope this helps. I'm no expert by any means but I know this setup kicks serious a$$ and did so even befor I did the second part.
Pic's are from phase I. I have since removed that Nav steering wheel remote. I found I didn't use it plus it was quite ugly imo.
Last edited by bixby; 07-20-2005 at 02:13 PM.
#3
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There's two ways to go.
Either you buy the box that looks good and get the speakers to match
or
You buy the speakers and buy/build the box to match.
The key concept is that the subwoofer and box are a matched system. If you're buying whatever looks good and then tossing random speakers in it's only luck if you get something that sounds good. There is actually honest to God science involved in the matching of a woofer's Thiel-Small parameters and the boxes volume. I didn't want to cobble something together myself so I went with one of the under strut boxes and then bought subwoofers that matched the volume of that box for smoothest response.
I don't think there's anything wrong with the stock tweeter's location unless you were going to mount something on top of the dash. Tweeters should have a direct line to the ears and be as close to ear hight as possible. Sitting in the triangles of the doors isn't too bad.
The best thing to do is go quality. If this means taking your time to get it right eventually then so be it. To rush through something and get it wrong is very expensive in both time and money. Listen with your ears to your music and find something that you like.
Either you buy the box that looks good and get the speakers to match
or
You buy the speakers and buy/build the box to match.
The key concept is that the subwoofer and box are a matched system. If you're buying whatever looks good and then tossing random speakers in it's only luck if you get something that sounds good. There is actually honest to God science involved in the matching of a woofer's Thiel-Small parameters and the boxes volume. I didn't want to cobble something together myself so I went with one of the under strut boxes and then bought subwoofers that matched the volume of that box for smoothest response.
I don't think there's anything wrong with the stock tweeter's location unless you were going to mount something on top of the dash. Tweeters should have a direct line to the ears and be as close to ear hight as possible. Sitting in the triangles of the doors isn't too bad.
The best thing to do is go quality. If this means taking your time to get it right eventually then so be it. To rush through something and get it wrong is very expensive in both time and money. Listen with your ears to your music and find something that you like.
#6
Originally Posted by 2slow4me1990
oh and i also want something that will enable me to hook my good old ipod up. thanks
#7
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what do you guys think of the jl audio stealth box with 2 10 inch w3's. good box? good subs? i still have no idea what amps go with which subs or which speakers or head unit to put in... oh well, i know i can find some info here.
-pat
-pat
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#8
Originally Posted by 2slow4me1990
what do you guys think of the jl audio stealth box with 2 10 inch w3's. good box? good subs? i still have no idea what amps go with which subs or which speakers or head unit to put in... oh well, i know i can find some info here.
-pat
-pat
#9
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