Window adjustment
Has anyone done what they talk about in this thread?
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/50253-how-to-add-speaker-depth-in-doors.html
Losening the nuts in the door and then using a screwdriver to move the angle of the window.
I tried this at lunch and I dont see any change. Did I do it right? I just followed what the thread said.
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/50253-how-to-add-speaker-depth-in-doors.html
Losening the nuts in the door and then using a screwdriver to move the angle of the window.
I tried this at lunch and I dont see any change. Did I do it right? I just followed what the thread said.
I wouldn't do that if I were you. What you really need is a custom made spacer that angles the speakers away from the window or facing the driver more.
I have 6.5" Focal 165k2p's and my installer made a spacer to do this. absolutely no issue with hitting the window.
I have 6.5" Focal 165k2p's and my installer made a spacer to do this. absolutely no issue with hitting the window.
Are the spacers 1" all around? If so you need to angle them. 1" on the side closest to the front of the car down to 1/4" or less on the side closest to the seat. This will push the magnet away from the glass not to mention provide for better sound. You'll actually want to adjust the spacer so that the speakers angle up just a bit as well.
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huh...the side closest to the seat is where the window hits. Bixby have you tried this because I'm thinking of installing the CDTs.
I would think you would need to push the driver further from the window. Say an angle that starts 1 1/2" on the forward side down to 1 " on the side nearest the seat.
I have adjusted the window, but I did it for other reasons. I had a PDR dent guy come to my house to remove two dings from the door. Before he arrived, I wanted to make things easier so I removed the entire inner door panel (so you could see the glass, tracks, window motor, etc.). Well it didn't help him, but it made life a mess for me. You have to get the screws aligned just right (the bottomn ones) or you will have serious wind noise. These screws adjust the dip angle of the window front to back and also the vertical angle that effects how the upper lip of the pane hits the rubber door seal..don't mess with it.
I would think you would need to push the driver further from the window. Say an angle that starts 1 1/2" on the forward side down to 1 " on the side nearest the seat.
I have adjusted the window, but I did it for other reasons. I had a PDR dent guy come to my house to remove two dings from the door. Before he arrived, I wanted to make things easier so I removed the entire inner door panel (so you could see the glass, tracks, window motor, etc.). Well it didn't help him, but it made life a mess for me. You have to get the screws aligned just right (the bottomn ones) or you will have serious wind noise. These screws adjust the dip angle of the window front to back and also the vertical angle that effects how the upper lip of the pane hits the rubber door seal..don't mess with it.
Originally Posted by dannichols
huh...the side closest to the seat is where the window hits. Bixby have you tried this because I'm thinking of installing the CDTs.
I would think you would need to push the driver further from the window. Say an angle that starts 1 1/2" on the forward side down to 1 " on the side nearest the seat.
I have adjusted the window, but I did it for other reasons. I had a PDR dent guy come to my house to remove two dings from the door. Before he arrived, I wanted to make things easier so I removed the entire inner door panel (so you could see the glass, tracks, window motor, etc.). Well it didn't help him, but it made life a mess for me. You have to get the screws aligned just right (the bottomn ones) or you will have serious wind noise. These screws adjust the dip angle of the window front to back and also the vertical angle that effects how the upper lip of the pane hits the rubber door seal..don't mess with it.
I would think you would need to push the driver further from the window. Say an angle that starts 1 1/2" on the forward side down to 1 " on the side nearest the seat.
I have adjusted the window, but I did it for other reasons. I had a PDR dent guy come to my house to remove two dings from the door. Before he arrived, I wanted to make things easier so I removed the entire inner door panel (so you could see the glass, tracks, window motor, etc.). Well it didn't help him, but it made life a mess for me. You have to get the screws aligned just right (the bottomn ones) or you will have serious wind noise. These screws adjust the dip angle of the window front to back and also the vertical angle that effects how the upper lip of the pane hits the rubber door seal..don't mess with it.
By angling the magnet down (speaker up) and forward (speaker more rear facing) you are moving the magnet away from the window.
I think we're talking the same thing just saying it differently.
Not to argue Bix, but I'm trying to find a solution so let's talk about this one.
Yep the magnet is what I'm referring to and how the back end of it would stick out and prevent the window from fully lowering.
In the crude drawing here I'm trying to show where the window on the passenger side hits the magnet. It is on the aft top portion about 1 1/2" back from the steel door frame.
If a spacer was created and angled to push the speaker outward, with the highest point under the area that I put the pointers on, I don't see how that is pushing the magnet any further away from the window. In fact the point that would be furthest away from the magnet would be the front of the magnet..which was already clear of the window in the first place.
I've never understood how people got more clearance with the angled spacers. Better imaging, reduced rainbow effect and less blocking by the door panel yes..but more clearance, I don't get it....
Yep the magnet is what I'm referring to and how the back end of it would stick out and prevent the window from fully lowering.
In the crude drawing here I'm trying to show where the window on the passenger side hits the magnet. It is on the aft top portion about 1 1/2" back from the steel door frame.
If a spacer was created and angled to push the speaker outward, with the highest point under the area that I put the pointers on, I don't see how that is pushing the magnet any further away from the window. In fact the point that would be furthest away from the magnet would be the front of the magnet..which was already clear of the window in the first place.
I've never understood how people got more clearance with the angled spacers. Better imaging, reduced rainbow effect and less blocking by the door panel yes..but more clearance, I don't get it....
By creating a spacer of .25 near the seat and 2.5 inches at the other side I was able to install the CDTs this weekend..took 4 hours to get it just right but I got it done. Thanks guys
Originally Posted by dannichols
Not to argue Bix, but I'm trying to find a solution so let's talk about this one.
Yep the magnet is what I'm referring to and how the back end of it would stick out and prevent the window from fully lowering.
In the crude drawing here I'm trying to show where the window on the passenger side hits the magnet. It is on the aft top portion about 1 1/2" back from the steel door frame.
If a spacer was created and angled to push the speaker outward, with the highest point under the area that I put the pointers on, I don't see how that is pushing the magnet any further away from the window. In fact the point that would be furthest away from the magnet would be the front of the magnet..which was already clear of the window in the first place.
I've never understood how people got more clearance with the angled spacers. Better imaging, reduced rainbow effect and less blocking by the door panel yes..but more clearance, I don't get it....
Yep the magnet is what I'm referring to and how the back end of it would stick out and prevent the window from fully lowering.
In the crude drawing here I'm trying to show where the window on the passenger side hits the magnet. It is on the aft top portion about 1 1/2" back from the steel door frame.
If a spacer was created and angled to push the speaker outward, with the highest point under the area that I put the pointers on, I don't see how that is pushing the magnet any further away from the window. In fact the point that would be furthest away from the magnet would be the front of the magnet..which was already clear of the window in the first place.
I've never understood how people got more clearance with the angled spacers. Better imaging, reduced rainbow effect and less blocking by the door panel yes..but more clearance, I don't get it....
Originally Posted by bonds24
By creating a spacer of .25 near the seat and 2.5 inches at the other side I was able to install the CDTs this weekend..took 4 hours to get it just right but I got it done. Thanks guys
You could also pm big-al on this board. He actually made my spacers. Granted my speaks are Focal 165k2p's.
I made the spacer out of mdf and dynamat. If I were to do it again I would probably make the spacer bigger all teh way around on the drivers door. You can easily make it 2.5 and 3 and then it would not have to be perfect for the speaker to go in.
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