og muddbone

Dan,

I didn't think you got on me or anyone else for that matter. I new what I was asking for when I posted, which is why I stated I was not finished. I feed off of others criticism and try to grow. True I used a camera phone cause I dropped my digital camera not to long ago, but I am not trying to make any excuses. As far as the rear area where you see wrinkles I tried to stretch the vinly but I think the 3M adhesive I used didn't hold up to well. Someone told me to try Weldwood instead. The floor only wrinkles when I set an object on it that has weight to it like my bag. After a few minutes the wrinkles go away, I should have waited before I took the pic, oh well. I am going to look for a different type of vinly without a backing type of material which seems to make it look puffy as some say. Anyone here use Weldwood products and can point me in the direction of a thread on how to use vinyl?
As far as the crossover I have the satnet 480 with the upfront built in. I thought about getting the kit but I am satisfied right now with the way my high's sound. I have the silk tweets and they are smooth on the ears. Does the upfront kit raise the sound stage or does it get louder cause I am not a fan of really bright highs. With the tweets in the kicks they sound smooth and more natural to me. As far as the clay, at first I made a small bead to go between the door and the first MDF ring which is 3/4 and then another bead between the second ring which gave it more angle and another thin bead between the woofer and the rings. Then with the left over clay I basically covered the outer rings from the door to the edges of the woofer to make sure it was air tight and to add some weight. I think it may have had an effect or maybe not, who knows but I have great mid bass from the doors. I never thought about baking the clay HMMMM.

I know who used the term "ghetto". I just don't see the humor in it. I know it was meant as slang but it really isn't slang so to speak. I 'm gonna leave it at that for now. I need to work on a new design for my rear area which is more important.

Exta Z, Ignored your first post. I know what I want to do for the rear area but I just havn't finished it. Not sure if you install you own stuff or if you take it to a shop, what ever floats your boat, I believe you should do it or at least try it. I wanted to try it and I did and along the way I would invision it in my head and then try to build it. If I didn't like I would try another design until I realized I had builders block, so I came here. I know the 350Z is not a "cheap parts car" so let me know what I ruined that was OEM besides the kicks. I already ruined them when I put in the tweets so I figured why hide the crossover, so they sit flush. The sound from the tweets mounted down there are worth it. Ask Dan! Besides I have been in the car industry long enough to where I my name is in three diferent Nissan Dealer Databases in my area so I get my parts "kinda cheap". I was a Service advisor for a few years and the shop let's me use their info when I need to get stuff. I have crawled before, then I walked, until I had a head on collusion with a 1980 Oldsmobile and I was riding a 95 Yam YZF sport bike a few years ago. So I had to learn how to walk again, I still use a cane to this day but it has not stopped me from trying to get this done. Not trying to be a jerk here. Just looking for "food for thought".

dannichols

Muddbone, Excellent ideas with the clay. Your combination of clay sandwiched with MDF is something I haven't seen before.

I've always used it to hold the mid in place while playing with the angles. Baking it when done works very well to hold the shape as you start cutting and designing the MDF. basically the clay makes a prototype in my case.

Are you cutting the MDF spacers with a compound miter to produce an angled spacer and then using the clay to create more of an angle..or using the clay only as the angle producer?

The Satnet Xovers have Aux tweeter technology but not Upstage (if I remember right). Aux tweeter is simply an extra set of leads for another tweeter mounted up high. UpStage is an advanced system that splits the highs into two bands (3.4k - 8k and 8k - 22k I think)..the lower highs are sent to your primary tweets in the kicks and the upper highs are sent to the tweets on the dash. Aux tweeters would lift your soundstage but would also produce a lot more highs and likely be overbearing for you. UpStage would lift the soundstage above the dash without overemphasizing the highs.

Thats' the reason I picked the ES-200S Xover, since it comes with the Upstage built in...but you can add the same capability your config using something like UP-519XT Add-on.

Dan

Exta_Z

actually muddbone,
I did use to install audio systems at a retailer...please dont dare me to challenge you! Also, sorry to hear about your accident...thats actually the reason why i sold my CBR 600RR! As for oem parts, ruining doesn't neccessarily mean broken in half or cut in pieces...scratching, bending, warping, etc... But, enough about me, hows the rest of the project going?

og muddbone

Dan, Thanks. I don't think I used a compound miter although I can't remember what the tool was called for real. Anyhow I decided to use the clay for an angle when I was faced with the stock grill dillema. I was just gonna use the clay between the woofer and mdf at first for dampning. Once I found those grills and messed around with them and got them to the same bend as the stocks and they held shape, I figured I didn't need to angle my speaker as much to get the sound that was being hampered by those dumb designed stock grills. I don't know about you but those HD62's just barely miss the window if you use two spacers and I was worried about the woofer hitting the grill during some mid bass notes. I have mine crossedover at 63hz @24 slope using the crossover on the amp. The midbass impact is there as long as you give them 150+ watts. I think my get about 200 watts a side from the front channels and they love it. The amp had a birth sheet of 925 watts @4ohms. Once I cleared the window I used a some type of saw I borrowed from a neighbor that has a base on it. He said that it was used to cut stuff at an angle, so for the outer spacer, it was 1/2 mdf and cut out a square first and then clamped it the base and figured a good angle and cut. When I was done the angle looked not how I invisioned, it was slightly thin in on area, so clay became my new friend and we worked together to get a good angle to go with the door panel. Then I screwed the two spacers together and clay held together up the angle that was needed. On the inner side of the spacers once together I put a layer of damping then screwed the inner spacer to the door with the clay in between, it's larger than the outer spacer. Using the clay on the door for angle along the the clay sandwhiched between the spacers and my "once in a lifetime" cuts by me the angle in my opinion is good enough for govt work. Hopefully you can get a good visual from that. Once I mounted the speaker onto the outer ring with a thin bead of clay between I went ahead and just covered the the spacers with black clay because I think it helps with damping as well as hiding the silver and yellow clay I used at first. See with the stock grill and few holes the cut out you really can sed the mid woofer but with the grills I am using the holes are more larger, there for more sound but like I said you can see the woofer and if you look hard enought you see a little of the door so the black clay worked perfect in hiding that. When you see it up close all you see is the design on the woofer. I just need to find some type of bonding agent that is really clear when it dries cause those grills just and I mean just, barely fit around the door panel once I bent them in shape so this lady at an arts and crafts store sold me some dark colored type of glue that is not permanent but holds well. I am using that not but I would like to have something that is clear. I am waiting for someone to get me about the shiny stuff around the grill. If anyone can reccommend something better plus do.

og muddbone

Exta, By no means was I trying to challenge you . What was meant is that if you did or do install you own stuff, especially in 350 I would like to see it as for "food for thought". I have surfed the net for while and looked at different peoples set-ups and all that. My goal is to be different from the norm that I could see but still tasteful to me since it's mine and I have to drive it(Not being smart) and I wanted create it. I know in some aspects installs can kind of look the same when you don't have alot of space to create within a vehicle. Dan just let me know that we had a lot in common with our front stage and if I just flipped my woofer over and used the stock plastic type floor with a hole in it, then in my eyes, I would think that I just copied him even though I didn't. I never made a claim to be a pro installer or anything like that. I would love to try my hand at fiberglass one day but for now I gonna leave it to you pros's or until the Dr. releases me or can fix my back.I would hope that you being an installer might understand that what I mean by builders block. Comments good and bad help me out, just as much as photos, as long as the bad comments include some good advise. So if you got some pics from a Z I would like to see them is all.

og muddbone

Here's a pic of my amp. It's mounted in front of the strut on a piece of 1/2 MDF which is covered in black vinly and bolted to the metal. The amp sit's on angled 2x4's which are glued and screwed to the MDF floor and covered in vinyl. From the Pic it looks like it is just sitting on the floor but it's not.On PG amps the mounting screw is inside those plastic boots on the end of the amp so the 2x4's are not visible. In person the back of the amp is almost as tall as the plastic hump and the front is angled down toward the rear of the car. The height is about 3.5 inches in the rear and 1.5 inches from the floor.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...93/350z012.jpg

usmanasif

iTrader: (4)

You've definitely worked very hard on it, but I have never been a fan of that double-to-single DIN adapter. Why make a sexy sports car look like a late-80s Accord on the inside?

As I said, props on your hardwork.

Exta_Z

muddbone,
Here is a great tip i learned a few years ago...as far as mounting the amp (or any amp at that), use a piece of mdf-ply and make an amp rack so you can hide alot of those wires... for example look at the pic below (sorry for the unprofessional drawing, it was done in a few minutes!):

Speedracer

You are going to get a lot of crap over this install......

The quality of your install looks VERY amatuerish. Do you realize this? You say you have been installing stuff for 15 years. Have you ever seen a quality install and what this looks like. Even a home install can have a MUCH better fit and finish. With some things, if you can't do it right, it's better not to do it at all. Do a search on this site and look at some of the home-made installs. Look at the ATTENTION TO DETAIL that goes into things to give a clean, functional, cosmetically acceptable product.

For example, here is my amp install. While a full professional job may look slightly better, it is within the limits of acceptable fit and finish (I hope!)

the7ferret

Also your box looks too small. Isobaric subs need more room than other styles... as well as that method your using requires two subs. One on the inside and the second mounted to the first.