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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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Default speaker installation

how have yall been mounting your aftermarket door speakers. i have eclipse point source 6.5 comonents and even with a 1.25" spacer its still too deep. plus wiht that much spacer the door panel doesnt look like it will fit.
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 02:21 PM
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I mounted my Infinity's about one inch further forward of center in the stock hole to avoid hitting the corner of the window.
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 05:37 PM
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how were you able to do this? are you using 6.5s? if so thtas wierd bc i cant do that with mine. doesnt seem like there would be space unless you altered the door.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 06:05 AM
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get a set of these:
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/139524-wicked-door-speaker-pods-ready-new.html

and you wont have to worry about clearing your window or mounting depths or any of that BS. I screwed with my front componets forever trying to get them spaced right, finally gave in and bought one of those pods, and it turned out to be the best thing. Money very well spent.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 04silverzcoupe
how were you able to do this? are you using 6.5s? if so thtas wierd bc i cant do that with mine. doesnt seem like there would be space unless you altered the door.
I wanted a low key installation that wasn't flashy (steal me!!!) so I did not alter the door skins. I first cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to fit the recessed area where the speaker hole sits and then cut a second piece of plywood to fit the circle of the speaker's frame plus one inch around it. I then put the second piece to the first and cut the first to match the speaker hole. Bolt the first piece to the stock mounting holes and then screw the speaker to the second piece of wood.

If you'll look at the inside of the door panel you'll see that the speaker hole isn't even round (see below). I tried to line-up with the out-of-round grill. I nailed it really close and had to trim the wood mounting a bit to get the plastic door trim to fit again.



You don't want to know the effort I went through to hide the CD-disc player in the small pockets in the back or how hard it was to cram two amplifiers, power cap, power distribution and filtering into the stock subwoofer hole.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 08:25 AM
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Or the time some of us spent drilling all of those tiny holes out :-)
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 05:19 AM
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tackett, im glad you think those are great and they work for you. but i feel they are a rip off. 250 is way too much. i could do that for a lot less. prbably less than 50 bucks.
dannichols, i cant believe you did that. i might do it too though.
paul350z, thanks for the great idea. ill try that this weekend hopefully. i can only imagine the effort you went through to get all that stuff into the stock sub location. my highs amp barely fits in there so i can only imagine stuffing another amp plus distro blcok plus cap. congrats on what im sure is an awesome instal. btw have you had any problems with amps overheating?
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 05:42 AM
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i actually have another tread about door speaker spacers and many of people (include some members in this treads) help me out.
i ordered universal 1" spacers for 6.5" speakers from crutchfield.com. if you search it in their website, it will show you as for toyota but according to what they said (i called and talked to sales rep), it will fit on my Z.

Also Circuitcity sells Metra (known for car audio harnesses) 1" universal spacers for 6.5" speakers. check them out also.
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul350Z
I wanted a low key installation that wasn't flashy (steal me!!!) so I did not alter the door skins. I first cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to fit the recessed area where the speaker hole sits and then cut a second piece of plywood to fit the circle of the speaker's frame plus one inch around it. I then put the second piece to the first and cut the first to match the speaker hole. Bolt the first piece to the stock mounting holes and then screw the speaker to the second piece of wood.

If you'll look at the inside of the door panel you'll see that the speaker hole isn't even round (see below). I tried to line-up with the out-of-round grill. I nailed it really close and had to trim the wood mounting a bit to get the plastic door trim to fit again.

You don't want to know the effort I went through to hide the CD-disc player in the small pockets in the back or how hard it was to cram two amplifiers, power cap, power distribution and filtering into the stock subwoofer hole.
I too went with the stealth install as much as possible. Im going to drill out he holes on my door grills soon, good thing i go a micro pencil type air drill, holding a big drill for to long would get tiring. Wow, sounds like you went through some effort with you changer. Me i maximized all space in the Z. I even come up with a place to mount my Nos tank and not take any trunk space
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by isugoo
i actually have another tread about door speaker spacers and many of people (include some members in this treads) help me out.
i ordered universal 1" spacers for 6.5" speakers from crutchfield.com. if you search it in their website, it will show you as for toyota but according to what they said (i called and talked to sales rep), it will fit on my Z.

Also Circuitcity sells Metra (known for car audio harnesses) 1" universal spacers for 6.5" speakers. check them out also.
did you even read what i wrote. i had 1.25 spacers and my speakers were still too deep.
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 09:37 PM
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I used a 1" spacer for my Infinity Reference Components and it worked fine. I just drilled 3 holes in the metal and put sheetmetal screws.

I also put foam/weather stripping in between the metal, spacer, and speaker so it wouldn't rattle.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by boma
I used a 1" spacer for my Infinity Reference Components and it worked fine. I just drilled 3 holes in the metal and put sheetmetal screws.

I also put foam/weather stripping in between the metal, spacer, and speaker so it wouldn't rattle.
I to have the 6.5 Infinities with the 1" spacer, plus i have the speaker buffles from crutchfield.com the buffles help keep the noise out from entring through the back of the speakers.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 04silverzcoupe
paul350z, thanks for the great idea. ill try that this weekend hopefully. i can only imagine the effort you went through to get all that stuff into the stock sub location. my highs amp barely fits in there so i can only imagine stuffing another amp plus distro blcok plus cap. congrats on what im sure is an awesome instal. btw have you had any problems with amps overheating?
I designed an amplifier rack with thread-rod (about $0.20 a foot!) which allowed me to wedge the second amplifier on top of the first. The inside of that area is bigger than the the hole so once you've gotten the thing through the hole it fits really well. I installed a tiny fan to blow a bit of air around but it doesn't get too hot anyways.











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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 08:20 AM
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Wow that is Nice Paul, I wish had enough time (a weekend) to make something like that.

I hope you don't mind, because I'm saving your pics so I'll have an idea of how to do that myself one day.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by boma
Wow that is Nice Paul, I wish had enough time (a weekend) to make something like that.

I hope you don't mind, because I'm saving your pics so I'll have an idea of how to do that myself one day.
Nothing too difficult - just a trip to HomeDepot
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul350Z
I designed an amplifier rack with thread-rod (about $0.20 a foot!) which allowed me to wedge the second amplifier on top of the first. The inside of that area is bigger than the the hole so once you've gotten the thing through the hole it fits really well. I installed a tiny fan to blow a bit of air around but it doesn't get too hot anyways.











well my amp rgiiht now is pretty bigt but i might be able to do the same thing. but the amp i just bought is the orion 2500d and there is no way its going to fit. its going to be matched to an h2 12. ill be comparing it to my 10 idmax. results should be interesting i feel.
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