JL 10W3 vs JL 8w7
12-09-2005, 09:29 AM
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JL 10W3 vs JL 8w7
Need some help, I currenlty have a JL 10W3 in the stock location on a 350Z Roadster running off a a JL 500/1, not really happy with the sound that I'm getting. I was told by a local radio shop that if I switch to a 8W7 with the same AMP that I will get a better sound out of that combination because of the space that I am working on.
Any suggestions? I'm looking for a deep bass
Thanks
This is my setup
Kenwood DDX7015 Double Din head unit Kenwood KNA-DV4100 Navigation system
XM Radio Adapter Kit
JL Audio Class D/AB 5CH Amp
JL Audio 10W3V2D4 10" W3 Series Subwoofer with Dual 4 OHM Voice Coils
MB Quart PSD216 Premium Series Component Car Speaker (6.5") Front
Polk/MOMO MMC650 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers 2 rear speakers
Any suggestions? I'm looking for a deep bass
Thanks
This is my setup
Kenwood DDX7015 Double Din head unit Kenwood KNA-DV4100 Navigation system
XM Radio Adapter Kit
JL Audio Class D/AB 5CH Amp
JL Audio 10W3V2D4 10" W3 Series Subwoofer with Dual 4 OHM Voice Coils
MB Quart PSD216 Premium Series Component Car Speaker (6.5") Front
Polk/MOMO MMC650 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers 2 rear speakers
Last edited by has6601; 12-09-2005 at 09:31 AM.
12-09-2005, 09:33 AM
#2
The stock location is your problem not the driver.
You need a free-air woofer - and even then - you'll not get the bass someone with a sealed, ported, or bandpass box.
The stock location has plenty of air leaks which allows the sound to leak out and add and subtract from the sound.
You need a free-air woofer - and even then - you'll not get the bass someone with a sealed, ported, or bandpass box.
The stock location has plenty of air leaks which allows the sound to leak out and add and subtract from the sound.
12-09-2005, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul350Z
The stock location is your problem not the driver.
You need a free-air woofer - and even then - you'll not get the bass someone with a sealed, ported, or bandpass box.
The stock location has plenty of air leaks which allows the sound to leak out and add and subtract from the sound.
You need a free-air woofer - and even then - you'll not get the bass someone with a sealed, ported, or bandpass box.
The stock location has plenty of air leaks which allows the sound to leak out and add and subtract from the sound.
It's currently on a seal box made to JL specifications, and I even added some dynamat. I was also told that more power would help...
12-09-2005, 11:15 AM
#4
JL 10W3:
Fs - 28.4 Hz
Qts - 0.499
Vas - 1.71 cu.ft.
Efficiency 85.2
JL 8W7
Fs - 35.2 Hz
Qts - 0.612
Vas - .61 cu.ft.
Efficiency 82.7
The 8" is a bit less efficient than the 10" with 3 dB requireing twice the amplifier power to get the two to match.
Running your W3 in a sealed box you ought to be getting insane levels of bass out of a 500 watt amplifier well over 125 dB inside the car unless something is wrong.
What is the cubic foot of displacement of the box you're using? I'd recommend one of about 0.7 to 1.0 cu.ft. for the W3 a bit smaller if you want more bass amplitude at the cost of some low end frequency.
1 cu.ft.
W7 = 41 Hz
W3 = 41.1 Hz
0.75 cu.ft
W7 = 41.6
W3 = 42.5 Hz
I don't think any one can hear the differences between these two responses. The W7 series is way more expensive so they've got to have the ability to crank out competition level amplitudes (right?).
Fs - 28.4 Hz
Qts - 0.499
Vas - 1.71 cu.ft.
Efficiency 85.2
JL 8W7
Fs - 35.2 Hz
Qts - 0.612
Vas - .61 cu.ft.
Efficiency 82.7
The 8" is a bit less efficient than the 10" with 3 dB requireing twice the amplifier power to get the two to match.
Running your W3 in a sealed box you ought to be getting insane levels of bass out of a 500 watt amplifier well over 125 dB inside the car unless something is wrong.
What is the cubic foot of displacement of the box you're using? I'd recommend one of about 0.7 to 1.0 cu.ft. for the W3 a bit smaller if you want more bass amplitude at the cost of some low end frequency.
1 cu.ft.
W7 = 41 Hz
W3 = 41.1 Hz
0.75 cu.ft
W7 = 41.6
W3 = 42.5 Hz
I don't think any one can hear the differences between these two responses. The W7 series is way more expensive so they've got to have the ability to crank out competition level amplitudes (right?).
12-09-2005, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul350Z
JL 10W3:
Fs - 28.4 Hz
Qts - 0.499
Vas - 1.71 cu.ft.
Efficiency 85.2
JL 8W7
Fs - 35.2 Hz
Qts - 0.612
Vas - .61 cu.ft.
Efficiency 82.7
The 8" is a bit less efficient than the 10" with 3 dB requireing twice the amplifier power to get the two to match.
Running your W3 in a sealed box you ought to be getting insane levels of bass out of a 500 watt amplifier well over 125 dB inside the car unless something is wrong.
What is the cubic foot of displacement of the box you're using? I'd recommend one of about 0.7 to 1.0 cu.ft. for the W3 a bit smaller if you want more bass amplitude at the cost of some low end frequency.
1 cu.ft.
W7 = 41 Hz
W3 = 41.1 Hz
0.75 cu.ft
W7 = 41.6
W3 = 42.5 Hz
I don't think any one can hear the differences between these two responses. The W7 series is way more expensive so they've got to have the ability to crank out competition level amplitudes (right?).
Fs - 28.4 Hz
Qts - 0.499
Vas - 1.71 cu.ft.
Efficiency 85.2
JL 8W7
Fs - 35.2 Hz
Qts - 0.612
Vas - .61 cu.ft.
Efficiency 82.7
The 8" is a bit less efficient than the 10" with 3 dB requireing twice the amplifier power to get the two to match.
Running your W3 in a sealed box you ought to be getting insane levels of bass out of a 500 watt amplifier well over 125 dB inside the car unless something is wrong.
What is the cubic foot of displacement of the box you're using? I'd recommend one of about 0.7 to 1.0 cu.ft. for the W3 a bit smaller if you want more bass amplitude at the cost of some low end frequency.
1 cu.ft.
W7 = 41 Hz
W3 = 41.1 Hz
0.75 cu.ft
W7 = 41.6
W3 = 42.5 Hz
I don't think any one can hear the differences between these two responses. The W7 series is way more expensive so they've got to have the ability to crank out competition level amplitudes (right?).
I'm actually running out of 500/5 Channel AMP 250 for the sub
12-12-2005, 10:00 AM
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I've read several reviews that the 10W3 sound boomy.
Did you share that complaint on your first install?
I want crisp, tight, bass.
I measured the stock cubby and with 3/4" MDF it appears to just
fit the 8W7 and meet the .875 ^3' volume requirement.
I need to put both amps (500x1-sub & 300x2-mains) under the seats.
Finding small high fidelity small amps is a huge challenge....
I am very curious how your 8W7 now sounds in comparison to the 10W3?
Since you put a sealed box in the cubby, where did you place the dynamat?
Which bigger amp did you use to drive the 8W7?
Thanks much in advance!
Did you share that complaint on your first install?
I want crisp, tight, bass.
I measured the stock cubby and with 3/4" MDF it appears to just
fit the 8W7 and meet the .875 ^3' volume requirement.
I need to put both amps (500x1-sub & 300x2-mains) under the seats.
Finding small high fidelity small amps is a huge challenge....
I am very curious how your 8W7 now sounds in comparison to the 10W3?
Since you put a sealed box in the cubby, where did you place the dynamat?
Which bigger amp did you use to drive the 8W7?
Thanks much in advance!
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