Since this is a multi-purpose thread, I will post it in the technical/mechanical thread as well...

I decided to do all of my own stereo work on my CS Touring w/ NAV. I am a little picky when it comes to installs, and I feel its better to save the money, and claim that I did the work myself, and that always makes me feel better, and gives me more cash to put towards a nicer system.

Never before have I worked on a car with so much sophistication. This has lead to a couple of issues for me. Here is what I did...

I started the work by rolling the windows down and disconnecting the ground wire on the battery. I needed to do this to complete the power cable (4Ga) routing for my amps. I also installed a new interface (not complete yet) for the audio, and video upgrade portion for the factory navigation system, which incorporates a PS2 for DVD play capability. In the process of these upgrades, I left the ground disconnected for about 48 hours. This is not something that you would think could cause any issues, but it did for me. Once I got the work partially done, I decided to connect the ground wire on the battery again, and do some initial testing. I first noticed that my tire pressure sensors were no longer working. After some investigation, I found a blown fuse, which I replaced, and fixed that problem. I still don't know how that happened as I did not touch anything involved with that portion of hte system. However, now, my service engine soon light has been lit ever since I connected the battery ground again. It is not a fuse, and I cannot track down any issues. I even put the MIL sensor into diagnostic mode, and reset the memory (thanks God for the Factory Service Manual--its incredible). I still have the Service Engine Soon light (not flashing, but on). According to the owners manual, a solid light means a malfunction in the emmisions portion of hte car, and is not an emergency, but if the light doesn't go out after a couple trips, then take the vehicle in for service. I have been out for a few trips and the light is still on, so I am taking her into the shop tomorrow.

One other word of advice...this car has intelligent manageability. In other words, if it detects a problem, then it stores that info and essentially tries to shut down that portion of the system. Here is an example. If you remove a seat from the Z with side airbags, with the battery connected, it gets pissed off. So it will disable the complete SRS system thinking a harness has been cut, disconnected, etc. Trust me, this happend to me. The only way to fix it is to put the system into diagnostic mode II and clear out the warning. This was easy to do, but without the FSM, I would have been lost. Your best bet is to work on the vehicle with the battery cable disconnected to prevent issues like this, but I still have yet to determine the casue of my Service Engine Soon warning. So, there will be more to come...

A word of warning, be very careful when doing any work on this car, as you could get into big trouble. If you aren't careful, you will be at the dealership quite a bit for Diagnostics check-ups, and resets.

 

Thanks for the heads-up.

 

Good looking out.

 

I was able to reset the system's ECM, and SRS control, so everything is back to normal now without any assistance from the dealership. However, without the FSM, I would have been lost in trying to do any diagnosis.

 

I have the FSM, so I'll have to take a look.

Are you doing the diag modes and the resets without a diagnostic tool (ODBII)?

Mike

 

You can do some of the diagnostics without a CONSULTII or ODB-II machine, although the FSM doesn't recommend it, purely because its not as easy. Trust me, they are right, and its not easy...you have to decipher morse code to translate them to the proper DTC code they are trying to warn you about. however, alot of diagnostics can be done without an expensive tester. I was able to reset the SRS and ECM without a tester...

 

how did you reset it??

 

I had a passport 8500 hard wired into my Z and it set off the Service Engine Light. I took it back to the installer and they tried everything to get the light to go off but were unsuccessful. The manual says that if the light comes on drive it for a while and it will go off after a couple of trips. True to it's word the light went off after about 4 days.

 

You have to put the system into Dignostic Mode II, and see what is causing the sensor to illuminate, by seeing what code it spits back at you according to how the MIL sensor blinks. Once its in Diagnostic Mode II you can clear the ECM's MIL bank. Its in the EC portion of the FSM located around pages 71-80...its a sequence of steps and has to do with the gas pedal and ignition. Once its in diagnostic mode II, jsut press the pedal for 10 seconds, turn the ignition off, and that should clear out hte warning. THIS CAR IS AMAZING WHEN IT COMES TO COMPUTER STUFF ! I also saw a Inspection mode that basically simplifies all portions of a vehicle inspection procedure by doing something with the door switch. Once the sequence is entered, a Nissan tech can basically walk around the vehicale as it flashes lights, turns on/off high beam/low beam brake signals, honks the horn, etc...pretty cool, if you are a person that does the inspections, and it only requires one guy versus one guy sitting in the car and the other yelling instructions.

I will continue to say how valuable the FSM is, and all of this stuff is jammed into it...as long as you can find it, you can at least attempt to fix the car from home, without getting Nissan involved...

 

Great info. Thanks for the tips. Now I will be ordering me a FSM very soon. I'm sure I can purchase this through the dealer, but how much are they (complete set)? Thanks. -m

 

whoa super cool. I have the FSM but never got the chance to see that part (mostly on how to remove panels)

 

I think the paper version is $280, the CD version $250.

Nissan obviously doesn't want you to have these for that amount of mone