i have 2 jl10w6s in a zenclosure box. the first week it sounded
excellent. this week im hearing the rattling before the bass hits. i
took it to my boy at his stereo shop and he said dynamat woulnt help.
any suggestions

 

can you be more speific? what do you mean rattling BEOFRE the bass hits? and hwy does your freind say dynamat wont help?

b

 

good start would be to listen to the system from out side the car. Youll find some, like the Lic plate, Heat sheilds under the car. and listen to the body of the car, you can hear the rattles from out side the car a little better then inside.
Also the third brake light black cover will rattle against the window. I know i found a couple more when i installed my new type-x and pin pointed the locations by listening from outside the car.

 

The non-race Z benefits from sound proofing in at least the wheel wells. Every rock on the road caused a "tink" before and now with double and triple thickness fat mat those sounds are gone. I did everything behind the seats to the back adding about 50 pounds of fat mat - over 100 square feet of the stuff. This weight gives kittens to the guys racing but doesn't bother me a bit.

After I installed the system I hunted down the buzzes. I pulled the fuses on the mid and high frequency amplifier and just let the subwoofer's run. I also nailed a couple of the ones that the car was delivered with - a really anoying one in the driver's side A pillar where the wiring harness was rattling on the plastic trim.

 

Where all would you guys recommend dynamatting the Z?

It would be helpful if you guys could tell me the number of layers you used. Also, did any of you do a combo of like the typical dynamat, and then go over it with the liquid sound deadener?

I'm going to have an incredible stereo installed, but if it rattles, there is no point. Please help this guy out *please*!!! Tell me how many layeres to put in the doors...in the hatch..how to get rid of 3rd brake light rattle, etc. My biggest worry is the hatch, and associated noises.
Hahha,
Ravi

 

VQ 350z-
I've seen some people use mat plus liquid dampner on top of it as well and asked elemental designs about this because I did not want to spend any money on anything I didn't need. Below is their response. You will have to decide for yourself I guess. I take it as using whatever is most convenient for you - which may depend what part of the car you are working on or your own personal preference. Adding them together makes no difference other than you have multiple layers. If you end up using low quality mat, the liquid stuff might hold it on so it does not come unglued!


My question
3. I plan to put eDeadv3 wherever I can and then plan on doing barrier and absorption layers of open cell and closed cell foam products where I can on top of the eDead V3. Will I want to put eDead matting anywhere or is the V3 enough to reduce vibrations alone? I've seen alot of people use matt and liquid on top of each other and would like to just avoid the cost and hassle of mat entirely unless I need it.

ED tech response
"3. It is not necessary to use both v1 and v3 in combination with each other. Both products do essentially the same thing and the only difference is really how you install them into your vehicle. Many people put eDead v3 over v1. This is not bad at all and will just help the process. v3 is also water resistant when cured so it adds a protective barrier against the elements. "

Can't help you yet on where and how much. I still have 3/4 of a gallon left and need to do the same thing. Not much is gained by doing the doors but I was already in there. Have you searched this yet? There is good advice on where maybe not so much on how many layers. I think I asked you this before but are you going for just eliminating rattles or are you also trying to fight road noise?

 

I'm trying to make it so that when the bass hits, I only hear bass--no stupid interior panel rattle. What are the most effective places in the car to "hit" with edead so that I can make it as silent as possible.

I still want to be able to hear my exhaust...if that makes any sense...

 

Pinpoint where the rattles are coming from, then put the material there. That way you don't use deadening when you don't have to. Some common places to find rattles are listed above, but there's no point in eliminating a rattle that doesn't exist in your car

 

GQ 350z -
I know that the above advice is not very specific but it is what most of us will tell you. Do you have a computer that you can burn CD's with? There are a couple of good free software packages I can link you to later that will let you burn a CD with frequency sweeps so you can track down every rattle you want. You have probably noticed different rattles on different songs becuase each rattle is more sensitive to different frequecies.
Let me know, I've got to get going on the road for the day right now. Check back with you later!

 

Yeah, every computer I have has a burner Definitely--different frequency sweeps will provide different types of vibration. I didn't think of this. Please let me know when you can.

Ravi

 

to be honest, as you get past a certain volume, its going to be very hard to stop ALL rattles from the car, i did do it once, but it costsed the customer well over 1k in just soun dampening alone, i did three lays in almost all metal surface, and spray on most plastic panels, the car was DEAD, could not hear any rattles, but his sytem involved 400 watts and single 12, i am sure if i had 1000+ watts and two big 12s, there may still be some, though un audible rattles, caue some rattles you just cant get to...

here is a pic of that car:

 

test tones between 10hz and 300hz in more increments than you could ever need - burned a CD but haven't used it yet. Maybe better for letting it go and working outside the car to find buzzes. It takes a lot of time to go 10hz to 300hz if you burn all of the tones they give you!
http://www.realtraps.com/test-cd.htm

the one I used
go here, CLick on Wavefile Generator V1.0 and download it. Does very nice full range sweeps if you want. Pick 1/12 octave to get lots of small increments in Hz.

http://www.nt-instruments.com/X0-ASP...X1-default.htm

I just created the .wav files and burned them with Win Media Player

Let me know if you need any help, I've got to get back to work