Hey guys, I finally got all of my parts in from eBay and went for it on my subwoofer install. Got the enclosure from "nimithce" on eBay (a clone of the Zenclosure). Had to remove some interior parts to fit it in as shown:


Still have to get the carpet and panels back on, but it seems to fit very well/tight.


License plate was rattling like crazy, so I took it off to cover the back with velcro or similar. Sounded like some punk kid's ride. (No offense to any punk kids out there. )

Here are the shortcuts I have to confess:
1. Could not find the way to get all the interior panels off, so installed THROUGH the Bose sub hole:


2. For my grounding point, I used the screw from the Bose amp and put it into the hanging bracket. It's a ground, but do you think it's adequate?


3. When I installed my HU, I ran the RCA's, but did not run a remote power lead. (JL audio supposedly had automatic signal detection. I now find out it is only for speaker level inputs, not RCA.) So I cheated and used the cigarette lighter positive as my turn on lead. Is this a problem?

Some more photos showing how much space is still left in front of the strut bar/subwoofer:

The air gap should disappear when the carpet is back in for the next fitting.



What do you think? Let me have it.

 

i wouldnt use the cigarette 12v because it a constant 12v. which means your amp will always be on. your battery is gonna die and youll go out one morning and your car wont start. and as for the ground, i personally would try to find a better spot. you want the least amount of resistence in your ground line. but youll probably be ok cuz its not a huge system.

 

I thought the lighters were controlled with the key switch? I know the front one is as my radar detector is tapped in there and it goes on and off with the key. I might have something tapped into the back one ... I'll have to volt meter the thing now and check.

Z+otherstuff - That enclosure doesn't look like it fits as well as Zenclosure's but too late now. The carpet should help.

Your ground ought to work - that "L" bracket is tack welded to the structure. If you'll pry the plastic out from around the front of the amplifier (it's a bunch of work pulling the sides out and then the luggage cubby) you'll find three more screw holes that same size (10 mm) that bolt down into the floor pan which might be a better ground if this one gives you problems - you may be able to get to them with an open ended wrench. I think they might be the ones that hold the sub-woofer mounting plate in place.

I like your choice in a sub-woofer.

Turning the amp on and off with the key isn't too bad.

 

just plug something into your cig lighter while your car is off. if it works than you have constant Voltage. if it doesnt work then its switched. all the cars ive ever worked on had constant at the cig so i assumed the Z did, but im new to the Z so i could be wrong, sorry if confused anyone

 

you actually got one of those altzza tailights from ebay?

 

The infinity sub has a HUGE magnet structure (the Bose had no magnet to speak of...on the front of the speaker...Bose is a weird company) and the white goes well with my PPW. And only $75 on eBay!

Yeah, cig lighter is switched with the key...that's where I've been plugging my radar detector. My light up Z on the passenger side would only light up with the key in, but I switched it to the amp positive post and now it works like it should have:



PS: Can you believe the JL 250/1 fits through a 10" hole?

 

My PO put those taillights on. He also gave my the light up Z's, which he did not have time to install. At first I didn't like them and was going to put back the stock taillights, but they are distinctive and have grown on me.

 

The Bose is a fine speaker.




(I can't post this picture enough!}

How do you like your strut bar light? Do you think it would be possible to swap the orange lights for blue LEDs? I've got the electrical skills if it's at all physically possible. I'm thinking a dark purple-blue light would be a better match to my super black.

 

The strut bar and running board lights are very pimp, I enjoy them every time I get in or open a door. The color matches the factory lighting. I think that's why they refuse to make them otherwise. I'm trying to think about the underside of those lights (they are glued down now) and I don't remember being able to actually access any of the lighting itself. The issue might be whether you end up bending the metal in you efforts to pull off whatever they have covering the lights.

Check out this thread for details and a pic of the backside of these units:

http://www.350zfrenzy.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5583

I think they sell the strutbar piece separately, you could try working on that first, then get the others if successful.

PS: Paul, I used your install thread heavily in my planning for this and the Avic D1 install. Thanks for that.