Nforce1

iTrader: (2)

Alright, So Im adding a 10" sub and a amp to my non-bose system. The problem is, I dont know where to get the signal from. How do I remove the rear speakers?? Is there a way to do it without removing all of the plastic panaling??? Or is it possible to get a signal from behind the head unit?? If so what color wires do I connect my Hi/Lo Converter to? I need to find a place to get the signal from, since I dont have the bose unit I dont have a bose amp to grab it from.

PLEASE HELP!

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

The speaker wiring color codes are posted in the thread tacked to the top of this forum.

You have to pull the plastic panels to get to the speakers.

You can get to the speaker level signals at the back of the head end too.

Depending on where you're going to mount your amplifier(s) you may have to remove the plastic panels in the back away ways.

TeesZ

What you need is a 3Sixty. It will allow you to retain your factory radio and add aftermarket amps and speakers. The EQ in our car is severe and a LOC isn't a good solution. 3Sixty will analyze the inputs, sum the necessary inputs to gte a full range response (20 to 20) normalize, or flatten them out to give you a flat full range response.

As for the sub, there is a high pass rolloff that doesn't have much content below 80Hz. This device can boost the necessary freqs to give you a full sub channel!

Check it out
at

http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_...8;t=010916;p=0

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

^ broken link.

http://carsound.com/articles/publish/article_771.shtml

WOW!!! This thing is expensive!!
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...1&locale=en_US

dannichols

To hit the speaker wires near the rear speakers, you're gonna have to remove the paneling around the cubby. At least the top and back portion of it. I believe the wires run from the HU through wiring harnesses along the doorsill, up the sides and into the end metal boxes that house the speakers. No easy way to get around it.

I would recommend just looking up some past posts that show the wiring color codes or using the service manual and taking the HU out to tap in there. I'ev used a simple LOC to amp RCA before its pretty simple if you can find the right wiring.

bjr

I've seen something like that reviewed in a car audio mag before. I would understand needing that for the BOSE unit but are you sure that it is needed for the base non-BOSE HU?? That's what was being discussed here. I have that HU and although I'm positive an aftermarket HU would sound better, the base HU does a fine job and I really didn't need to EQ that much. Am I missing something

TeesZ

I have the freq response of the non bose head unit (if I can find it) I will try and post it and show you.

bjr

I'd love to see it if you still have it. The 80Hz comment explains the settings I ended up with on crossover and EQ I guess. I hope it's not too ugly! I might not want to see it

TeesZ

I lost it, I apologize.

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

Here are the wire colors you can use
LF Speaker +/- blue/red - black/white +,- radio harness
RF Speaker +/- yellow/red - red/white +,- radio harness
OR
LR Speaker +/- lt. green/red - black/yellow +,- radio harness
RR Speaker +/- blue/orange - black/pink +,- radio harness

bjr

Nforce1 -
I built a system off my non-Bose but I used the front speaker wires to drive the whole thing.

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/149028-finally-done-thanks-for-everyone-s-help.html

It sounds like you are keeping the front stock and adding a sub off the rear speakers. I guess there has been some talk about this and I missed it while planning my system. The bottom of this post shows that someone else used rear speaker wires to add a sub and he was happy.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....uency+response

I now know that the headunit starts to decrease the bass from around 80Hz on down. I did not know that at the time. I thought I built my sub box wrong or something because at 20-30Hz the response is down about 18dB from where it is at 80-100Hz. I have got the sub channel gain turned up more than the front speaker amp and the crossover settings didn't make much sense until now but I am still happy with it. I would just ignore the negative comments for now and just try it. If you are doing what I think you are you won't even be interested in these products listed in this post that try and take out the factory EQ junk because you are keeping the factory fronts right??

The signal processor I read about was the JL Clean Sweep. I hate how you would have to keep the factory head unit volume at one setting and then use a new volume **** to adjust your volume because many OEM HU change the EQ at different volume levels, so whatever the black box does to take this back out can only do it at one volume level setting.

TeesZ - are there any more characteristics you recall on the HU? I can confirm that your comment about a steep rolloff below 80Hz is true. I think it is steep like 18dB/octave. The other post argued that there is nothing below 80Hz but this is simply not true. I can run a frequency sweep CD and by about 25Hz I can hear signal even though it is down quite a bit. Also, there is a noticeable change when you turn the volume up from 15 to 16 because the loudness contour switches off. This doesn't really bother me as most aftermarket units do this to - at least the older ones did 10 years ago. My 1st Sony CD unit did it. We also know that after about 23 on the volume it starts to clip. Anything else?? The article on the Clean Sweep went on to say that some OEM HU have EQ across the whole spectrum to compensate for the cabin or cheap speakers, at very high volumes the bass might cut out completely below some frequency, that the overall response might be cut back at high volume to avoid damage or distortion, etc.

Good luck with your install Nforce1 - let us know if you have any other questions. You might want to PM a couple of people from the other post that added sub to rear channel. Let us know how it goes