Nobelium Z - Teaser
Yep
Bing Helped me out with that since I don't have a place to do my own fiberglassing just yet. So just small projects for now.... But yeah he did a good job on it (as always) And those are one set of Nobeliums sitting in them right now.
The other is in the box hidden there. They'll go in for rear fill.
Bing Helped me out with that since I don't have a place to do my own fiberglassing just yet. So just small projects for now.... But yeah he did a good job on it (as always) And those are one set of Nobeliums sitting in them right now.The other is in the box hidden there. They'll go in for rear fill.
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can't wait to see how it sounds -- from what i'd thought, being behind the seat made the distance between head and speaker too short (fewer waveforms) which made the bass softer -- that's why i went with the rear-facing under strut approach.
if this sounds fine, though -- i might have to switch as i would LOVE to have my trunkspace back, lol!
if this sounds fine, though -- i might have to switch as i would LOVE to have my trunkspace back, lol!
adam...if you plan to do subs there, i suggest a pressure plate aka loading baffle...
basically a general rul would be to have a solid plate that is bigger than the sub cone be stood out about 1/3" of hte diameter fromt he sub...this may be hard to do with w7s but basically. a piece of solid wood or plexi that is about 3.5" infront of the sub cone, thsi acts as a loading surface for the sub and makes everyhting sound a bit better
b
basically a general rul would be to have a solid plate that is bigger than the sub cone be stood out about 1/3" of hte diameter fromt he sub...this may be hard to do with w7s but basically. a piece of solid wood or plexi that is about 3.5" infront of the sub cone, thsi acts as a loading surface for the sub and makes everyhting sound a bit better

b
Well... I worked as hard as I could this weekend. Making the 2003-2006 Cubby conversion complete with 7" xenarc and molded controls and ribbon-actuated sliding lid etc etc... took the majority of my waking day. But it's done now. I'll post pics tomorrow.But I've only just started on making my own 2006 dash kit. I'm using a 2003 kit as a starting point. Unfortunately since we have a true double din as opposed to a 1.5 or something, I've had a bit more fabricating to do to make a hole/mount for my half-DIN in-dash EQ.
Not to mention the fact that everything was closed this weekend and I couldn't get the parts I needed... and stupid Kmart... ugh... don't get me started... Sure it's closer... but I'll drive all accross town to Walmart instead from now on.
Aaaaaanyway... so I figure I've got a few more days molding and fitting my dash kit before that's ready. Then another couple weeks on building the amp mounts in the trunk well extra-stealthy style, and then finding a good solid weekend to do the install. Could be another month before this thread gets finished.
g4 'cause it's supposed to run cooler and on less power. And for what I'm using it for I don't think I'd need the extra processing speed.
Yeah the biggest issue is software. Getting an interface that's going to be functional on a 7" screen.
My friend's pretty good with mac programming and I can do a thing or two with applescript. So with our heads together we've managed to make some pretty cool stuff so far.
I'm looking at where I could mount a wired mic for voice recognition. Any thoughts?
I have a wireless bluetooth one but for some reason it runs really slow in the voice recognition program. All other programs it runs fine. Weird.
Yeah the biggest issue is software. Getting an interface that's going to be functional on a 7" screen.
My friend's pretty good with mac programming and I can do a thing or two with applescript. So with our heads together we've managed to make some pretty cool stuff so far.
I'm looking at where I could mount a wired mic for voice recognition. Any thoughts?
I have a wireless bluetooth one but for some reason it runs really slow in the voice recognition program. All other programs it runs fine. Weird.



