schrods

After my install, if found that my side mirror control and hatch release button don't work. I've made sure all plugs were reconnected. I've checked the fuses at the drivers kick panel.

Does anyone have fuse/wiring diagrams (some posts no longer have them available) so that I can trace the correct wires/fuses to find the problem. Any ideas or comments before I start would be appreciated.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

did you run new wires into the doors of the car?

b

schrods

Ya. Did the whole 9 yards following the one how to. First I want to check fuses and use a volt meter to see if I'm getting proper current at the switch under the door handle panel,..... before I have to rip EVERYTHING apart to see if I nicked a wire during the install. I figured if I don't have power to the switch, I'll go to the door grommet and plug next.

Still ( not knowing the wiring diagrams for the car yet ), what's that got to do with the hatch switch not working? Didn't even touch anything back there.

Bottom

iTrader: (1)

I recently had my door skin replace because of an accident. The shop missed the plug that actuates the locks. And the door locks from the fob and the auto switch didn't work as well at the hatch release from the outside button. I didn't check if the mirrors worked, but there is some relation between the door locks and hatch. If the door locks don't work for you, you may have a simular problem. I dunno know if that will help you narrow down a wire or whatever.

Good Luck

schrods

Door locks, FOB, window switches all work,.. always have. FOB will activate the hatch to release. Switch near license plate won't.

Jes-Z

iTrader: (7)

lol...I have the same problem i just finished my install today. My door locks work fine only thing that won't is the trunk(At the button under the plate). I have to use the fob. If I find anything I'll let you know.

schrods

Come one guys. Someone has to have some diagrams to post, or at least point me in the direction where I can get them myself.......

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

The service manual?

I had to dig though five different manuals or I'd post the 13 Mb worth of files here for you.

The gw - glass and windows section says that the power mirrors are fed from the ingnition switch though fuse 6 which is 10 A in fuse box J/B (the one near the driver's left foot) (near the upper right side of the diagram now posted below). The ACC power is fed to the driver's door switch terminal 3 on a blue with green stripe wire. Past that point the circuit splits drivers/passenger's sides and since they're both out there's something in common.

Looking at pg - power section I see that fuse 6 controls the keyless entry, vechical security, windows, mirrors, h/lamp, turn signals and warning, tail lamps, interior illumination, the triple meters illumination, the audio illumination, navigation, and antenna amp.

The "back door" is under bl - body and lock and has the BCM feeding a purple wire back from terminal 19 of the BCM to the back door opener actuator 5 volts DC . When pressed that voltage should drop to 0 VDC.

Looking around bcs - body control system - I don't see the mirror's controls being controlled by the BCM.

You may have two different problems not inter-related. It looks like the mirror's get power via a fuse which feeds a bunch of the little interior circuits and that the rear door is controlled by the BCM which has a different power source. You've not reported that anything is wrong with the triple meters, the digital combination meter, or the lights so that leeds me to belive that fuse 6 is good. The BCM controls the A/C, heating, wipers (timing), turn signals (timing), and headlights and you didn't mention none of those were failed.

Do a complete stem to stern check and make sure everything electric is running and working the way it should. If nothng else is bad I'm guessing that the plug on the bottom of the mirror is unplugged as is the jack leading back to the rear door release.

Good luck.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

PS:



(the print is very tiny and hard to read in the manual itself, sorry)

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Didn't mean to bring up an old thread. But after searching I am having this problem as well after running speaker wires. I'm getting tired of my hatch release button not working.