Moving Nav Input Part II (pics)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
THIS POST COMES FROM RICARDEW. I JUSTADDED PICS. ITS A GREAT MOD.....
THANKS RICARDEW
ORIGINAL POST.
Moving NAV input PART II
I did a mod that allows moving NAV input. It'll work on a coupe. It works on a roadster but creates a fault code (I have a roadster). The speed signal to the NAV control unit comes from the unified meter. I interrupted the signal coming out of the unified meter and attached a switch. When moving, if i throw the switch (break the circuit), the NCU thinks I stopped and allows full input. When I throw the switch again (close the circuit) the NAV picks up my location and speed and off we go.
I chose to after the wire up front from the unified meter because it's easier to get to and that is where it has to end up. A microswitch under the a/c controls would be ideal and it's all right there (the wires from the a/c controls run the the unified meter aka the a/c amplifier/unified meter)
There is a problem with the roadster though. The speed signal splits and goes to the soft top control unit and the passenger seat control unit. Both of these are only on the roadster and keep the top from operating when the car is moving. I didn't think that was a big deal as in the 10 years I've owned convertables I have yet to have the desire to operate the top while moving! Tops are expensive. Turns out that in the rodster, the soft top control unit gets 2 speed inputs from the unified meter. When one is interrupted it generates a fault code, the soft top warning light flashes and the top won't operate. Turn the car off and on again and it all goes away and the top operates. I've been trying to avoid pulling apart the big long panel in the back. It looks like it has a zillion clips! but that looks like tomorrow's project.
Here's what I did today for any coupe owners that would like to do it.
**1. Remove MT boot - just pry up from the back with a taped flat screwdriver, or grab the back of the silver ring and pull up.
**2. There is a ribbon wire from the a/c controls to the unified meter (you can't miss it, it sits below the head unit and is a white rectangular thing). Remove the 2 screws that hold the unified meter in place.
**3. Free up the harness a bit so that you can move the unified meter out a bit.
**4. There are 3 connectors in the back of the unified meter. Remove the middle one. (there is a locking tab that you depress and pull off the connector or push it off with a screwdriver.
**5. The wire with the speed signal (34) is white with a green stripe running longitudinally. When you look at the connector it is on the bottom row, third from the right. (( MINE WAS 2ND FROM RIGHT, TOURING MODEL I GUESS))
**6. Free up the wire (unwrap some of the black electrical tape like stuff) and cut it. I used telephone wire connectors from radio shack to connect a wire to each of the cut ends. You don't have to strip any wire, just place the 2 ends to be spliced and clamp down on the connecter with a pair of pliers.
**7. Attach a switch to the 2 wires.
sorry I was away from home and didn't have my digital camera but can get pics of it.
I HOPE EVERYONE LIKES IT.
THANKS,
JASON.
PS THANKS RICARDEW.
rich
THANKS RICARDEW
ORIGINAL POST.
Moving NAV input PART II
I did a mod that allows moving NAV input. It'll work on a coupe. It works on a roadster but creates a fault code (I have a roadster). The speed signal to the NAV control unit comes from the unified meter. I interrupted the signal coming out of the unified meter and attached a switch. When moving, if i throw the switch (break the circuit), the NCU thinks I stopped and allows full input. When I throw the switch again (close the circuit) the NAV picks up my location and speed and off we go.
I chose to after the wire up front from the unified meter because it's easier to get to and that is where it has to end up. A microswitch under the a/c controls would be ideal and it's all right there (the wires from the a/c controls run the the unified meter aka the a/c amplifier/unified meter)
There is a problem with the roadster though. The speed signal splits and goes to the soft top control unit and the passenger seat control unit. Both of these are only on the roadster and keep the top from operating when the car is moving. I didn't think that was a big deal as in the 10 years I've owned convertables I have yet to have the desire to operate the top while moving! Tops are expensive. Turns out that in the rodster, the soft top control unit gets 2 speed inputs from the unified meter. When one is interrupted it generates a fault code, the soft top warning light flashes and the top won't operate. Turn the car off and on again and it all goes away and the top operates. I've been trying to avoid pulling apart the big long panel in the back. It looks like it has a zillion clips! but that looks like tomorrow's project.
Here's what I did today for any coupe owners that would like to do it.
**1. Remove MT boot - just pry up from the back with a taped flat screwdriver, or grab the back of the silver ring and pull up.
**2. There is a ribbon wire from the a/c controls to the unified meter (you can't miss it, it sits below the head unit and is a white rectangular thing). Remove the 2 screws that hold the unified meter in place.
**3. Free up the harness a bit so that you can move the unified meter out a bit.
**4. There are 3 connectors in the back of the unified meter. Remove the middle one. (there is a locking tab that you depress and pull off the connector or push it off with a screwdriver.
**5. The wire with the speed signal (34) is white with a green stripe running longitudinally. When you look at the connector it is on the bottom row, third from the right. (( MINE WAS 2ND FROM RIGHT, TOURING MODEL I GUESS))
**6. Free up the wire (unwrap some of the black electrical tape like stuff) and cut it. I used telephone wire connectors from radio shack to connect a wire to each of the cut ends. You don't have to strip any wire, just place the 2 ends to be spliced and clamp down on the connecter with a pair of pliers.
**7. Attach a switch to the 2 wires.
sorry I was away from home and didn't have my digital camera but can get pics of it.
I HOPE EVERYONE LIKES IT.
THANKS,
JASON.
PS THANKS RICARDEW.
rich
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; May 18, 2009 at 04:50 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
yes, you need a switch b/c the nav wont follow if its always off. in off mode u can input an address. then when your back at nav map screen u need to switch "on" inorder for nav to track. off thinks u stopped a block back!
-J
-J
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
Nucleus, let me see your switch location? pics?
FINALLY! Someone that figured out the CORRECT VSS wire. IT'S NOT THE WHITE ONE. It's the white with GREEN strip like JasonZ-YA says. Everywhere I keep reading that it's the white wire which is WRONG. Anyhow, here is my pics following JasonZ-YA instructions.


Last edited by power2rice; Oct 20, 2009 at 02:21 PM.
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on my automatic Z.

