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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Question Audio trouble

I was messing around with my sub box today and I decided to turn the box around to face the cabin. I unplugged them turned the box around and plugge they back up. They sounded like ****, so I tuned the amp and tinkered with it for a while. I accidently pull one of the ground wires out of the right sub, suddenly it sounded better then ever and my interior lights stopped dimming with every bump bump ! Is it safe to have the ground wire unattached on one sub, is anything going to over heat or blow up? Is there another way to fix this?
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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Draw a diagram in MS Paint of how you have them wired up please.

Do the subs share the same box "air"? I mean, are they in the same box and not separated by a wall inside?

What kind of subs? What type of box? Does it have a port tube?

We'll help you out
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JimRHIT
Draw a diagram in MS Paint of how you have them wired up please.

Do the subs share the same box "air"? I mean, are they in the same box and not separated by a wall inside?

What kind of subs? What type of box? Does it have a port tube?

We'll help you out
I didn't do the wiring Ashmo did and he couldn't find a diagram for an auto Z
yes they share the same air space. Two 10' Eclipse with the under strutbar box. If a port tube is that cylinder like things that helps control the surges to the subs and amp, I don't have a port tube. I appreciate the help very very much

[URL=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Destiny350Z/subs.jpg][IMG]

Last edited by Destiny350Z; Jun 13, 2006 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Destiny350Z
I was messing around with my sub box today and I decided to turn the box around to face the cabin. I unplugged them turned the box around and plugge they back up. They sounded like ****, so I tuned the amp and tinkered with it for a while. I accidently pull one of the ground wires out of the right sub, suddenly it sounded better then ever and my interior lights stopped dimming with every bump bump ! Is it safe to have the ground wire unattached on one sub, is anything going to over heat or blow up? Is there another way to fix this?
What wire are you referring to?
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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Uhh...if the negative wire came out of a sub then that sub isn't working anymore...meaning less power required which is why your lights don't dim.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 03:06 PM
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Hey destiny. I dunno what you did when you pluged them back in. You prob reversed the polarity of the subs in other words....

This is only for the right sub. First dont do this with the car on, do no have power going to the amp.

Rather than plug the wire in that you pulled out, plug it into the other terminal. And put the other wire into the other terminal.

Turn the car on and slowly turn the amp up.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Santacruzslick
Uhh...if the negative wire came out of a sub then that sub isn't working anymore...meaning less power required which is why your lights don't dim.
No, see thats the strange thing both subs were still working with the neg wire out of the right one
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsmo
Hey destiny. I dunno what you did when you pluged them back in. You prob reversed the polarity of the subs in other words....

This is only for the right sub. First dont do this with the car on, do no have power going to the amp.

Rather than plug the wire in that you pulled out, plug it into the other terminal. And put the other wire into the other terminal.

Turn the car on and slowly turn the amp up.
Long time no see buddy, how have you been? Last night I did what you said and both subs stopped working. I switched the wires about 4 more times turning the car on and off, nothing happened, so I checked to make sure I didn't fry the amp. The amp was fine, I unplugged the cables to the amp and then plugged the back up and then went to sleep. Magically this morning everything was working!! No dimming lights, but she is idling a little rough. Could I have a short or crimped a wire?
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Destiny350Z
No, see thats the strange thing both subs were still working with the neg wire out of the right one
Do they share the same air inside the box?

If so, one was not working ... but it was moving. It was basically acting just like a port ...moving air while the other driver does all the work.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JimRHIT
Do they share the same air inside the box?

If so, one was not working ... but it was moving. It was basically acting just like a port ...moving air while the other driver does all the work.
yeah they share the same space..I understand what you were saying now. It sounded wonderful with one sub doing all the work and the other one just taging along They are both working now.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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add a capacitor. should help with the lights.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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Anyone think that they were out of phase? If you reverse the neg. and positive wires going to the speaker it should boom both subs. The reason it hits harder is the single woofer is now in phase. If the disconnected sub. is still moving when the bass hits it could mean no divider inside box. Just my thoughts on this.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sidewayz2
Anyone think that they were out of phase? If you reverse the neg. and positive wires going to the speaker it should boom both subs. The reason it hits harder is the single woofer is now in phase. If the disconnected sub. is still moving when the bass hits it could mean no divider inside box. Just my thoughts on this.

that is what it was I think.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 07:08 AM
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You mean ... the subs were both out of phase from the beginning?

That is a possibility ... they would still have the same "loudness" but just not coherent and smooth in transition with the mids.

I think he just liked the sound the ported box gave him ... for most songs the new setup was likely louder than the dual sealed subs, even though only one sub was active.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 07:11 AM
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out of phase subs don't hit less hard ... they just sound non-coherent and well .. out of phase
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JimRHIT
You mean ... the subs were both out of phase from the beginning?

That is a possibility ... they would still have the same "loudness" but just not coherent and smooth in transition with the mids.

I think he just liked the sound the ported box gave him ... for most songs the new setup was likely louder than the dual sealed subs, even though only one sub was active.

Destiny is a she. The box was not ported when I installed it haha where did you get the impression it was ported?

They were not out of phase in the beginning. I check for that because at one point it did sound like they were out of phase. When she turned the box around I think she might have switched the speaker leds.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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One subwoofer disconnected is the same as a ported box ... it is a PR'd box ... the non active driver acts as a port.

Sorry Destiny ... too much man-meat on the board .. its easy to make assumptions
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JimRHIT
One subwoofer disconnected is the same as a ported box ... it is a PR'd box ... the non active driver acts as a port.

Sorry Destiny ... too much man-meat on the board .. its easy to make assumptions

Ha I would argue that because the coils are not shorted that driver did not function as you said heh anyway
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Go ahead and argue.

How would a mass ... sitting on a sping/damper system ... residing in a box of contant volume ... not resonate at its tuning frequeny.


Try this test for me ... take any driver you have 3" and up ... bring it in your car ... go ahead and play a sine sweep ... the driver will move at its resonance. Are its coils shorted, no? But why does it move?
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JimRHIT
Go ahead and argue.

How would a mass ... sitting on a sping/damper system ... residing in a box of contant volume ... not resonate at its tuning frequeny.


Try this test for me ... take any driver you have 3" and up ... bring it in your car ... go ahead and play a sine sweep ... the driver will move at its resonance. Are its coils shorted, no? But why does it move?

I know it moves. But it does not perform as well as a passive radiator that has no voice coil. The voice coil moving in the magnetic field creates 'resistance' whatever you want to call it as a result of lenz's law.

So yes I believe you and I know it works the way you said it would.
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