Rear Speaker Replacement
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Ok, first of all I'd like to appologize for not being able to search and find a solution to my problem.
Problem:
Passenger rear speaker died. I pulled out the speaker and tested it, nothing. So, time to replace it. First of all I contact an car audio store and ask for replacement for my 32 ohm 40 watt 6.5" speaker. I proceed to contact other vendors and car audio companys. Not only does everyone act like I'm an idiot, no one has any sort of solution as well. The only option I'm left with is to contact Nissan and get a quote on a replacement speaker. They want $100 just for the damn speaker, and Everyone here says they suck. I do not know very much at all about audio, much less car audio. I dont know if there are better speakers out there for less or equivalent cost.
So, what do I do? I'd like to spend under $200 to solve my problem, but I can invest more money if need be.
My main problem is finding a 32 ohm speaker to replace this one... Do I even need a 32ohm replacement???
Thanks in advance for all the help!
Problem:
Passenger rear speaker died. I pulled out the speaker and tested it, nothing. So, time to replace it. First of all I contact an car audio store and ask for replacement for my 32 ohm 40 watt 6.5" speaker. I proceed to contact other vendors and car audio companys. Not only does everyone act like I'm an idiot, no one has any sort of solution as well. The only option I'm left with is to contact Nissan and get a quote on a replacement speaker. They want $100 just for the damn speaker, and Everyone here says they suck. I do not know very much at all about audio, much less car audio. I dont know if there are better speakers out there for less or equivalent cost.
So, what do I do? I'd like to spend under $200 to solve my problem, but I can invest more money if need be.
My main problem is finding a 32 ohm speaker to replace this one... Do I even need a 32ohm replacement???
Thanks in advance for all the help!
did you try asking the audio guys at the store what speakers work with your car? Or try crutchfield.com you can see what models will work. Also I don't think i've heard of a speaker that was 32ohm, but I guess there could be. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
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From: Lafayette, LA
The audio guys couldn't get anything that would work in the place of the stock speaker, especially not 32 ohm. I tried crutchfield.com and the best they could do was a 16 ohm, but I doubt that is going to work much either.
Hope someone can stop by and shed light on my situation, thanks.
Hope someone can stop by and shed light on my situation, thanks.
again, i'm not an audio expert but using ohms law:
watts = (volts^2)/ohm
volts^2 = 40 watts * 32 ohm = 1280
160 = 1280volts^2/8ohm
you should be able to replace the 32 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm speaker rated for at least 160 watts (assuming 40 watts is the max for the original speaker).
Of course I could be totally wrong about this too, but the physics says this should work without destroying the speaker
watts = (volts^2)/ohm
volts^2 = 40 watts * 32 ohm = 1280
160 = 1280volts^2/8ohm
you should be able to replace the 32 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm speaker rated for at least 160 watts (assuming 40 watts is the max for the original speaker).
Of course I could be totally wrong about this too, but the physics says this should work without destroying the speaker
Originally Posted by mikeg8r
again, i'm not an audio expert but using ohms law:
watts = (volts^2)/ohm
volts^2 = 40 watts * 32 ohm = 1280
160 = 1280volts^2/8ohm
you should be able to replace the 32 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm speaker rated for at least 160 watts (assuming 40 watts is the max for the original speaker).
Of course I could be totally wrong about this too, but the physics says this should work without destroying the speaker
watts = (volts^2)/ohm
volts^2 = 40 watts * 32 ohm = 1280
160 = 1280volts^2/8ohm
you should be able to replace the 32 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm speaker rated for at least 160 watts (assuming 40 watts is the max for the original speaker).
Of course I could be totally wrong about this too, but the physics says this should work without destroying the speaker

If the amplifier doesn't have the current ability to drive an 8 ohm speaker it will smoke itself - the lower impedance acting close enough to a short circuit to cause the amplifier to over drive. This is why some amplifiers are rated to 4 ohms and others down to 2 ohms or even 1 ohm.
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maybe the reason you are seeing 32ohms is because of the speaker being blown. However, if 32ohms is the actual factory spec, than you need to get rid of both of your rear speakers and look into something better. Hey...how about Focal's...uh, nevermind. Budget constraint.
Seriously, Crutchfield.Com is a great place to start. A couple of other great places to buy audio components on line are:
http://www.sounddomain.com/
and
http://acaraudio.com/default.php
They can hook you up on some great deals!
-J
Seriously, Crutchfield.Com is a great place to start. A couple of other great places to buy audio components on line are:
http://www.sounddomain.com/
and
http://acaraudio.com/default.php
They can hook you up on some great deals!
-J
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From: Lafayette, LA
Originally Posted by skyydiver
maybe the reason you are seeing 32ohms is because of the speaker being blown. However, if 32ohms is the actual factory spec, than you need to get rid of both of your rear speakers and look into something better. Hey...how about Focal's...uh, nevermind. Budget constraint.
Seriously, Crutchfield.Com is a great place to start. A couple of other great places to buy audio components on line are:
http://www.sounddomain.com/
and
http://acaraudio.com/default.php
They can hook you up on some great deals!
-J
Seriously, Crutchfield.Com is a great place to start. A couple of other great places to buy audio components on line are:
http://www.sounddomain.com/
and
http://acaraudio.com/default.php
They can hook you up on some great deals!
-J
32 ohm is labeled on the speaker and 31.5 ohm is what it tested.
40 watt is also labeled.
Another problem is, research has told me that the factory system has the same speakers all around (6.5" 32ohm 40watt). That would mean that I would need to change all 4 speakers and the amp, and that would run up quite a bill, and frankly I'm not sure if I could do all of it myself.
I think the solution is simple but annoying. I'll just have to waste $100 and order one from nissan. Is there anywhere I could go to directly order from nissan and avoid the actual dealership or something of the sort. I'm thinking that might save me at least a few bucks =/
Thanks all for the help, I appreciate the efforts ^_^
Originally Posted by Paul350Z
Yeah but ... I^R=W
If the amplifier doesn't have the current ability to drive an 8 ohm speaker it will smoke itself - the lower impedance acting close enough to a short circuit to cause the amplifier to over drive. This is why some amplifiers are rated to 4 ohms and others down to 2 ohms or even 1 ohm.
If the amplifier doesn't have the current ability to drive an 8 ohm speaker it will smoke itself - the lower impedance acting close enough to a short circuit to cause the amplifier to over drive. This is why some amplifiers are rated to 4 ohms and others down to 2 ohms or even 1 ohm.
If we assume the max power output for the amp in the HU is 40w (to match the stock speaker) and lets use a more common speaker impedance of 4 ohm then
(I^2)*R = W
10amps^2 * 4ohm = 40 watts
so the HU would have to be able to deliver a little over 3 amps max. I don't know if it can do this, but I would think it could. Yes, if you routinely listened to your stereo at max all the time, you could easily overheat the system, but I have a feeling even if you put an 60w, 4ohm speaker in the back, at normal listening levels you won't have any problem with the stock HU.
Again though, this is all conjecture. I don't know what the ratings are for the stock head unit and it's not in the manual (service or owner's)
Originally Posted by Ichigo
Dude, pm me your address, I will send you one, shippings on me...
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I've been chatting with a rep from crutchfield and she tells me that I do not have an amp in the factory audio system unless it is a Bose system. I know I do not have a bose system, therefore i do not have an amp. Also she shows that the exact model of this Clarion speaker (28156) should be 2ohm, and suggests I replace it with another 2 ohm speaker. Does this sound correct? If so, which speakers would you suggest. Thanks
That doesn't make sense. 2ohm makes sense for a BOSE replacement since their speakers are rated from a minimum 1/2 - 1 ohm.
I had no idea the OEM speakers were rated 32 ohms because I had them replaced with aftermarket speakers real fast. Maybe that's why the rear speakers weren't so loud. Anyhow, I didn't care much about the HU, since I replaced everything not too long after.
I had no idea the OEM speakers were rated 32 ohms because I had them replaced with aftermarket speakers real fast. Maybe that's why the rear speakers weren't so loud. Anyhow, I didn't care much about the HU, since I replaced everything not too long after.
Thread Starter
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From: Lafayette, LA
Could someone suggest some easy-install and not too expensive speaker that would work with my Head Unit? I have a JVC KD-S890. Thanks!
(by easy-install i mean that it will fit in the factory whole without problems)
(by easy-install i mean that it will fit in the factory whole without problems)
Originally Posted by mikeg8r
again, i'm not an audio expert but using ohms law:
watts = (volts^2)/ohm
volts^2 = 40 watts * 32 ohm = 1280
160 = 1280volts^2/8ohm
you should be able to replace the 32 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm speaker rated for at least 160 watts (assuming 40 watts is the max for the original speaker).
Of course I could be totally wrong about this too, but the physics says this should work without destroying the speaker
watts = (volts^2)/ohm
volts^2 = 40 watts * 32 ohm = 1280
160 = 1280volts^2/8ohm
you should be able to replace the 32 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm speaker rated for at least 160 watts (assuming 40 watts is the max for the original speaker).
Of course I could be totally wrong about this too, but the physics says this should work without destroying the speaker




