Triji

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I have been searching and have come up with this for my audio listening pleasure...

I was looking at those Alpine type-X carbon fiber coned subs but everyone on these forums are telling me to go with JL....

So, I'll prolly hook up with 2 10w7's and I was thinking of 2 500/1's, one for each sub in a stacked type of set up to give it some depth.





I am also looking at these speakers for my mid range, the Evolution XR's (XR653-CS)

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?comp_id=121



Would I need 2 of these set up's? one for the front and one for the rear?

I was also going to pick these up for the trunk lid for when I open the trunk these will frame my monitor on the lid... Should I also get tweeters for the trunk lid as well?

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?comp_id=119



^^^ Would I need tweeters for the above speakers for the trunk lid?

Lol... This is all greek to me, but I am learning just like I did with my Vortech set up


Would the 2 500/1's be enough to power this set up or should I go with one 1000/1 and one 500/1?

Thanks!!

topgear

You'll need a 4 channel amplifier to drive the front and rear speakers.
You can also use the 500/5 to drive everything (front/rear/sub).

driftk1d

iTrader: (14)

id go with the 500/5 if i were you, it wont take up as much space as 2 amps, but overall nice selection

KelekonaKustoms

iTrader: (9)

use a 300/4 for the highs and a 1000/1 for the subs, the 500/5 will never push all of that.

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

Your gonna need an *** load of space to properly utilize those W7's (Z-enclosures make a box that'll handle two w7's?). Make sure you use the right enclosure and that your willing to sacrifice the space needed to do those subs justice. I've seen some nice fiberglass under the strut bar options though.

XBS

iTrader: (29)

Agreed the 500/5 will be just enough for the componets and those subs can handle 500watts rms a peice so why not give it to them? If you want to be a BIG pimp get a 450/4 for the components and a 1000/1 for the subs ( they are both the same size so they look better together ) also I would probally go with some dyna audio components or some MB Quarts they are still pretty good for the price.

Triji

iTrader: (2)

I have been searchn the web and I think I am going with the 300/4 to power the front components and the trunk lid speakers... I am caught between either (2) 500/1's... one for each sub, or (1) 1000/1 to power both subs...

I am going with 2-JL 10W7's



Front speakers are XR650-CSI 2 way component



Rear deck speakers are VR690CXI Coaxials



Rear Trunk Lid Speakers are XR650-CXI Coaxials



To power the 2 subs will be 2 500/1's or 1 1000/1 (not sure)





and to power the trunk lid speakers and the front door speakers will be a 300/4... Or a 450/4 (450/4 might be overkill)





And the rear deck speakers will be powered by the Kenwood DDX 6019......


Now should my Red Top Optima be able to power this set up or should I get a Yellow Top just for the Audio itself?

Oh.... I am also going to be getting four 7" monitors... 2 for the sunvisors and 2 for the headrests along with a 10" for the rear deck lid... Unless I can use a computer monitor for the decklid then I could go with a 19".....

Does anyone know if you can hook up a 19" computer monitor to this car audio set up?

oh, and how the "F" do you power the frickn monitors???

So the amp's.... either what I have listed above or one 1000/1 and one 450/4....

Time to pull the credit card out again on Monday... Is there any other last miniute suggestions you all could give me? I really appreciate the help here!!

P.S. I am going to apologize ahead of time because my subs most likely will not have enough air to breath for optimum preformance... If they are inverted does that help them utilize the air in the trunk?

THANKS AGAIN!!

Bubble

iTrader: (50)

the deck, why not use 8017? top of the line.

Triji

iTrader: (2)

The deck was the 1st thing I bought before I started to go hog-ild on the speakers/amps... I actually looked at the 8017 and liked the look of the screen better on the 6019 with the buttons along the bottom and not on the sides. I also got one heck of a deal on the 6019 that I could not pass up

maturola

iTrader: (3)

This will give you the best sound and look

LayinLo

Go with the 1000/1 instead of two 500/1's. It'll be easier for you to wire, especially since a lot of this is new to you.

Why did you decide to go with the JL's instead of the Alpine? Not trying to persuade you, just curious. I knew you were looking for something that would look good for HIN, correct?

nicholasm617

iTrader: (3)

a 500/5 will make the fantastic speakers and subs pointless.

you should go with the 300/4 for the components and if i were you id go with TWO 1000/1 for each sub. the w7 is a serious subwoofer and you should take advantage of that otherwise just go for a w6, or even the new w3v3 would be great, i had 2 w3v1's in my civic and slightly underpowered they would still shake the whole car, not just shake but the rear windshield and the roof would fluctuate in and out at least half an inch. so unless your going for spl id advise two 12w3v3's on a 500/1 and see what the amp can handle. try to wire the subs down to 1 ohm resistance if the amp will handle it and rather than the obvious 250 watts to each sub youll get approximately 325 which is perfect.

702Fairlady

iTrader: (5)

U want to get as much power out of the smallest amount of amps. Since you are probably only going to run 1 power line from the battery back. That amp that is the farthest from your distrobution block is going to be getting the sloppy seconds of all the power. Plus when you do 2 sub amps, you have to make sure you get em set to the same settings so they sound right. Go with the 1000/1 and the 300/4 or 450/4

For nicholas's statement. That is true the W7 is a very power hungry sub and can take alot of power BUT. JL Audio rates their subs at such a low RMS rate so that when you push them to the limits you know they are capable of and something goes wrong, your warranty is voided. I dont know about you, but if im purchasing a $400+ woofer, i want a warranty along with it that is going to replace it. Especially if your going to show the car. Would be a real drag to be going to a show and find a sub blown and have to drop 500 bones to get a new sub rather than going to a dealer and paying core charge and getting a new one.

johnnyz001

i'm running 1000/4 to the front Focal componets, 2 500/1 to each 10. I dont think you have enough trunk space to run 2 10 w/7's. i tried but had to run lower end subs. but my **** is sick. I'll post pics soon.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

all i know is two 10w7 was already too much in a G35..., i cant imagine doing it in a Z...but why not do a single 1000/1 with two 10w7s? also, the zen enclosure box is no where near enough air space for two 10w7s...

my personal recommendations is two idmax10s...less space requirements, easier to mount and IMO sounds better...

but again, overall, key is installation...

b

GFrnk69

iTrader: (1)

2 W7's is overkill for the z, i have one 10"w7 in my z and never turn it past half way for it gives me a headache and rattles the interior too much. Just get 1 12w7 if u want stupid amounts of bass and the VR comps and coax speakers powered by a 300/4 and u'll be striaght.

-Frank

Triji

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for all the input... I am going with one 1000/1 for the subs and the 450/4 for the speakers, mounted in a step format.

I am reconsidering the 10w7's if they are that much overkill for the "G" that everyone is saying. I was looking into the Alpine Type-X's but they are pretty big and beefy and would be tougher to mount.

Lol, back to searching

Edit...searched... Ok so the W6v2's actually work better in a smaller enclosure than the 10w7's?..hmmm

Thanks for the input!

nicholasm617

iTrader: (3)

glad i could help if i did at all haha.
you should really research into different ways of takind full advantage of the capabilities that jl audio products offer. research what ohm range the amps will work in, theres special ways to wire everything to pull more than the advertised power.
as for the statement that the amp wired furthest away gets less voltage, thats not true. amps are fed in parallel due to the distribution block, therefore the only limit to how much power they get is whats available and so he just has to make sure his charging system is capable. other than that the only restriction on power would be resistance in the wire but if thats causing issues he needs either larger wires or better quality.

Triji

iTrader: (2)

^^^ Cool, Nah...You did help

You got me looking at the 2 w6's now instead of the 10w7's... Heck they are less expensive and work better in the smaller enclosures to boot!

I am not going to over power this set up at all... I don't blast my radio and actually listen to it on a fairly low volume because I like the sound of my exhaust so dang much

I got to get this stuff on order tomorrow I think so I can get it ASAP and get it installed for HIN...

I will post my final set up soon.

limeg35

iTrader: (1)

Now, if you going to show the car? dont you want some "wow" factors? while W6 might be better in everyday listening environment and your budget, but probably wont get you the attention as pair of W7 would've in the car show environments. But then again, just about everybody have JL's in their cars now days anyway.

If you decided on using W6s? cus its no longer 3ohms like the W7s, you could also look at some amps other than JL's, just to be bit different than other ppl are using in their "show" cars, likes of Helix A1/B4, Focal's new line of amps, if budget are tight? try Audison's LRX...just to be bit different