Amplifier questions
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Amplifier questions
Don't know if this subject has been beaten to death already? If so, my apologees. This is first time buying a system and I need some guidance on which amp or amps to chose when comparing S/N ratio and price.
I have been considering the following:
JL Audio E6450, 6 channel amp ($299.99+shipping on ebay), The reason for this is to save some money and power my fronts and sub together on one amp: Here's the spec on the JL E6450, (450 Watts/6-Channels, Rated power 12.5V 45W RMSx6@4ohm - 14.5V 70W RMSx6@4ohm, S/N Ratio 104db)
Another one I think is cool and reasonably priced:
Kenwood Excelon KAC-X542 ($399.99+shipping on crutchfield), 4-channel/88 Watt RMS x 4the cool thing about this is it's got a LED display that give you a bunch of info like amp temperature, cooling fan's speed and etc.
By the way, is higher signal to noise ratio on the JL Audio neccesarily means it's better than few other brands I'm comparing it to? here's some numbers:
MTX TA5302, 2 channel 75 Watt x 2 @4ohm: S/N Ratio 76db 1 watt
Alpine MRV-F545, 4 channels: S/N Ratio 73db 1 watt into 4Ohm
Suggestions on any other make or model is welcome, I'm hoping to not have to spend more than $500 on amp(s) and a 8" or 10" sub, any suggestions on sub is welcome as well. Not into SPL so no big wattage sub is required.
Thanks
I.F.
Edit: The front speakers is MB Quart reference components the amp will use to power, 60-130 Watt
I have been considering the following:
JL Audio E6450, 6 channel amp ($299.99+shipping on ebay), The reason for this is to save some money and power my fronts and sub together on one amp: Here's the spec on the JL E6450, (450 Watts/6-Channels, Rated power 12.5V 45W RMSx6@4ohm - 14.5V 70W RMSx6@4ohm, S/N Ratio 104db)
Another one I think is cool and reasonably priced:
Kenwood Excelon KAC-X542 ($399.99+shipping on crutchfield), 4-channel/88 Watt RMS x 4the cool thing about this is it's got a LED display that give you a bunch of info like amp temperature, cooling fan's speed and etc.
By the way, is higher signal to noise ratio on the JL Audio neccesarily means it's better than few other brands I'm comparing it to? here's some numbers:
MTX TA5302, 2 channel 75 Watt x 2 @4ohm: S/N Ratio 76db 1 watt
Alpine MRV-F545, 4 channels: S/N Ratio 73db 1 watt into 4Ohm
Suggestions on any other make or model is welcome, I'm hoping to not have to spend more than $500 on amp(s) and a 8" or 10" sub, any suggestions on sub is welcome as well. Not into SPL so no big wattage sub is required.
Thanks
I.F.
Edit: The front speakers is MB Quart reference components the amp will use to power, 60-130 Watt
#2
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Forget about comparing signal to noise ratios if you're going to start the engine.
A while back I did an acoustic analysis of the noise levels of the Z when actually running. Oddly enough 300 ponies make a bunch of noise even at idle and produce four times the sound levels at wide open throttle. In the driver's seat it was actually louder than outside the car even with the engine at about 6 feet. The only louder part of the outside of the car was dead nutz aft of the car behind the exaust.
IIRC off the top of my head:
Driver's seat idle = 80 dB
Driver's seat WOT = 86 dB
There is no way on earth you're going to hear any signal to noise ratio difference between the best amplifier on the planet and the cheapest once you start using your automobile in the manner is was designed to function. If you use it as a boom-box or a living room you'll hear the difference.
Make sure the power outputs that you are comparing are across the same load - 2/4/8 ohms and that they're driven watts from x to y frequency. Also understand that you have to double the amount of power from an amplifier to increase the sound level 3 dB and that 3 dB is typically one little click on the volume control **** louder.
I love this picture as it looks like the Z is at an interview.
A while back I did an acoustic analysis of the noise levels of the Z when actually running. Oddly enough 300 ponies make a bunch of noise even at idle and produce four times the sound levels at wide open throttle. In the driver's seat it was actually louder than outside the car even with the engine at about 6 feet. The only louder part of the outside of the car was dead nutz aft of the car behind the exaust.
IIRC off the top of my head:
Driver's seat idle = 80 dB
Driver's seat WOT = 86 dB
There is no way on earth you're going to hear any signal to noise ratio difference between the best amplifier on the planet and the cheapest once you start using your automobile in the manner is was designed to function. If you use it as a boom-box or a living room you'll hear the difference.
Make sure the power outputs that you are comparing are across the same load - 2/4/8 ohms and that they're driven watts from x to y frequency. Also understand that you have to double the amount of power from an amplifier to increase the sound level 3 dB and that 3 dB is typically one little click on the volume control **** louder.
I love this picture as it looks like the Z is at an interview.
#3
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Kenwood amps are mediocre at best. MTX are not very far ahead of them. I don't know about the JL Audio e series but from the 3 amps I would choose the JL amp.
An Image Dynamics ID10 sub would be the best SQ sub for the money and its efficient and will not need a whole lot of power to sound good.
An Image Dynamics ID10 sub would be the best SQ sub for the money and its efficient and will not need a whole lot of power to sound good.
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If S/N ratio is not an issue to be concerned with on a car, then I may have many more amps to choose from, such as these:
Phoenix Gold 300.4
300 watts, RSd 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 Ohms: 48 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
High Speed, High Current MOSFET Switching Power Supply
On Board Protection Circuitry
Multi-Function Protection Indicator
Built-In High Pass/Low Pass Crossover, 40 Hz - 400 Hz @ 18 dB/oct.
Variable Bass Boost(0 - 18 dB)
Wide Range Input Sensitivity Adjustment
Line Level Inputs
AUX Outputs
S/N Ratio: 83 dB
But what about S/N ratio affect the components like the speakers in a long run?
Phoenix Gold 300.4
300 watts, RSd 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 Ohms: 48 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
High Speed, High Current MOSFET Switching Power Supply
On Board Protection Circuitry
Multi-Function Protection Indicator
Built-In High Pass/Low Pass Crossover, 40 Hz - 400 Hz @ 18 dB/oct.
Variable Bass Boost(0 - 18 dB)
Wide Range Input Sensitivity Adjustment
Line Level Inputs
AUX Outputs
S/N Ratio: 83 dB
But what about S/N ratio affect the components like the speakers in a long run?
#5
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Originally Posted by 2fast4thelaw
Kenwood amps are mediocre at best. MTX are not very far ahead of them. I don't know about the JL Audio e series but from the 3 amps I would choose the JL amp.
An Image Dynamics ID10 sub would be the best SQ sub for the money and its efficient and will not need a whole lot of power to sound good.
An Image Dynamics ID10 sub would be the best SQ sub for the money and its efficient and will not need a whole lot of power to sound good.
yeah, I don't want to go with those either, but MTX is on sale at my local circuit city, like $128 for a two channel-TA5302 and $170 for Mono MTX-TA3401
but hey what do u know, price of Phoenix Gold at the worst is only about $100 more, I just found that out so of course I will now try to steer off the Kenwoods and MTX.
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Originally Posted by Interlagos Fire
If S/N ratio is not an issue to be concerned with on a car, then I may have many more amps to choose from, such as these:
Phoenix Gold 300.4
300 watts, RSd 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 Ohms: 48 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
High Speed, High Current MOSFET Switching Power Supply
On Board Protection Circuitry
Multi-Function Protection Indicator
Built-In High Pass/Low Pass Crossover, 40 Hz - 400 Hz @ 18 dB/oct.
Variable Bass Boost(0 - 18 dB)
Wide Range Input Sensitivity Adjustment
Line Level Inputs
AUX Outputs
S/N Ratio: 83 dB
But what about S/N ratio affect the components like the speakers in a long run?
Phoenix Gold 300.4
300 watts, RSd 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 Ohms: 48 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
High Speed, High Current MOSFET Switching Power Supply
On Board Protection Circuitry
Multi-Function Protection Indicator
Built-In High Pass/Low Pass Crossover, 40 Hz - 400 Hz @ 18 dB/oct.
Variable Bass Boost(0 - 18 dB)
Wide Range Input Sensitivity Adjustment
Line Level Inputs
AUX Outputs
S/N Ratio: 83 dB
But what about S/N ratio affect the components like the speakers in a long run?
#7
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So where would be the idea place to mount the amp(s), so it doesn't overheat? and will powering the sub and front speakers on one amp create any problems? I have heard that it could cause the amp to stop working.
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I wouldn't get an amp from Ebay. You wouldn't get a warranty and you never know if it is a refurb. Even if the listing says that it isn't a refurb, that doesn't mean anything. I have friends that sell crap on ebay (Jordans, 7 Jeans) and they state that they are original but they are really Japan knock-offs.
Since you live in Los Angeles, go to this place called Sterio 1 in Covina. They are located off the ten freeway. Ask for William.
Now, William will try to get you to pay more than his best price because he is a salesman and that is what they do. But, once you let him know that you already know how much things go for, he'll start to give you the best deals that you can find. He once matched ebay prices for me for half of my stuff, and then gave me killer deals on the other half.
Anyways, don't get a Kenwood. They don't give you the same kick that you can get from a JL amp. Actually, you would even be better off with a HiFonics or Kicker amp over a Kenwood.
For your price range, the JL Audio E6450 is a pretty good amp. Run your Hi's and mids through 4 channels and bridge the other 2 for your sub. Also, check out the Kicker ZX 700.5 and the Kicker KX 700.5. You can find the Kickers for about $350ish.
Another thing that I might do if I were you is I would check the classified section at this forum for a deal. The other day some guy sold his JL 10W6 for $160.
Since you live in Los Angeles, go to this place called Sterio 1 in Covina. They are located off the ten freeway. Ask for William.
Now, William will try to get you to pay more than his best price because he is a salesman and that is what they do. But, once you let him know that you already know how much things go for, he'll start to give you the best deals that you can find. He once matched ebay prices for me for half of my stuff, and then gave me killer deals on the other half.
Anyways, don't get a Kenwood. They don't give you the same kick that you can get from a JL amp. Actually, you would even be better off with a HiFonics or Kicker amp over a Kenwood.
For your price range, the JL Audio E6450 is a pretty good amp. Run your Hi's and mids through 4 channels and bridge the other 2 for your sub. Also, check out the Kicker ZX 700.5 and the Kicker KX 700.5. You can find the Kickers for about $350ish.
Another thing that I might do if I were you is I would check the classified section at this forum for a deal. The other day some guy sold his JL 10W6 for $160.
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Originally Posted by Interlagos Fire
If S/N ratio is not an issue to be concerned with on a car, then I may have many more amps to choose from, such as these:
Phoenix Gold 300.4
Phoenix Gold 300.4
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Originally Posted by led
I wouldn't get an amp from Ebay. You wouldn't get a warranty and you never know if it is a refurb. Even if the listing says that it isn't a refurb, that doesn't mean anything. I have friends that sell crap on ebay (Jordans, 7 Jeans) and they state that they are original but they are really Japan knock-offs.
Since you live in Los Angeles, go to this place called Sterio 1 in Covina. They are located off the ten freeway. Ask for William.
Now, William will try to get you to pay more than his best price because he is a salesman and that is what they do. But, once you let him know that you already know how much things go for, he'll start to give you the best deals that you can find. He once matched ebay prices for me for half of my stuff, and then gave me killer deals on the other half.
Anyways, don't get a Kenwood. They don't give you the same kick that you can get from a JL amp. Actually, you would even be better off with a HiFonics or Kicker amp over a Kenwood.
For your price range, the JL Audio E6450 is a pretty good amp. Run your Hi's and mids through 4 channels and bridge the other 2 for your sub. Also, check out the Kicker ZX 700.5 and the Kicker KX 700.5. You can find the Kickers for about $350ish.
Another thing that I might do if I were you is I would check the classified section at this forum for a deal. The other day some guy sold his JL 10W6 for $160.
Since you live in Los Angeles, go to this place called Sterio 1 in Covina. They are located off the ten freeway. Ask for William.
Now, William will try to get you to pay more than his best price because he is a salesman and that is what they do. But, once you let him know that you already know how much things go for, he'll start to give you the best deals that you can find. He once matched ebay prices for me for half of my stuff, and then gave me killer deals on the other half.
Anyways, don't get a Kenwood. They don't give you the same kick that you can get from a JL amp. Actually, you would even be better off with a HiFonics or Kicker amp over a Kenwood.
For your price range, the JL Audio E6450 is a pretty good amp. Run your Hi's and mids through 4 channels and bridge the other 2 for your sub. Also, check out the Kicker ZX 700.5 and the Kicker KX 700.5. You can find the Kickers for about $350ish.
Another thing that I might do if I were you is I would check the classified section at this forum for a deal. The other day some guy sold his JL 10W6 for $160.
#11
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Yes, I try to scour for deals when ever I can. In fact, I missed out on a JL Audio 450/4 for $300.00 from a local store that's going to stop carry audio stuffs.
#12
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Originally Posted by led
I wouldn't get an amp from Ebay. You wouldn't get a warranty and you never know if it is a refurb. Even if the listing says that it isn't a refurb, that doesn't mean anything. I have friends that sell crap on ebay (Jordans, 7 Jeans) and they state that they are original but they are really Japan knock-offs.
Since you live in Los Angeles, go to this place called Sterio 1 in Covina. They are located off the ten freeway. Ask for William.
Now, William will try to get you to pay more than his best price because he is a salesman and that is what they do. But, once you let him know that you already know how much things go for, he'll start to give you the best deals that you can find. He once matched ebay prices for me for half of my stuff, and then gave me killer deals on the other half.
Anyways, don't get a Kenwood. They don't give you the same kick that you can get from a JL amp. Actually, you would even be better off with a HiFonics or Kicker amp over a Kenwood.
For your price range, the JL Audio E6450 is a pretty good amp. Run your Hi's and mids through 4 channels and bridge the other 2 for your sub. Also, check out the Kicker ZX 700.5 and the Kicker KX 700.5. You can find the Kickers for about $350ish.
Another thing that I might do if I were you is I would check the classified section at this forum for a deal. The other day some guy sold his JL 10W6 for $160.
Since you live in Los Angeles, go to this place called Sterio 1 in Covina. They are located off the ten freeway. Ask for William.
Now, William will try to get you to pay more than his best price because he is a salesman and that is what they do. But, once you let him know that you already know how much things go for, he'll start to give you the best deals that you can find. He once matched ebay prices for me for half of my stuff, and then gave me killer deals on the other half.
Anyways, don't get a Kenwood. They don't give you the same kick that you can get from a JL amp. Actually, you would even be better off with a HiFonics or Kicker amp over a Kenwood.
For your price range, the JL Audio E6450 is a pretty good amp. Run your Hi's and mids through 4 channels and bridge the other 2 for your sub. Also, check out the Kicker ZX 700.5 and the Kicker KX 700.5. You can find the Kickers for about $350ish.
Another thing that I might do if I were you is I would check the classified section at this forum for a deal. The other day some guy sold his JL 10W6 for $160.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
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Originally Posted by 2fast4thelaw
Kenwood amps are mediocre at best. MTX are not very far ahead of them. I don't know about the JL Audio e series but from the 3 amps I would choose the JL amp.
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Originally Posted by Paul350Z
Forget about comparing signal to noise ratios if you're going to start the engine.
A while back I did an acoustic analysis of the noise levels of the Z when actually running. Oddly enough 300 ponies make a bunch of noise even at idle and produce four times the sound levels at wide open throttle. In the driver's seat it was actually louder than outside the car even with the engine at about 6 feet. The only louder part of the outside of the car was dead nutz aft of the car behind the exaust.
IIRC off the top of my head:
Driver's seat idle = 80 dB
Driver's seat WOT = 86 dB
There is no way on earth you're going to hear any signal to noise ratio difference between the best amplifier on the planet and the cheapest once you start using your automobile in the manner is was designed to function. If you use it as a boom-box or a living room you'll hear the difference.
Make sure the power outputs that you are comparing are across the same load - 2/4/8 ohms and that they're driven watts from x to y frequency. Also understand that you have to double the amount of power from an amplifier to increase the sound level 3 dB and that 3 dB is typically one little click on the volume control **** louder.
I love this picture as it looks like the Z is at an interview.
A while back I did an acoustic analysis of the noise levels of the Z when actually running. Oddly enough 300 ponies make a bunch of noise even at idle and produce four times the sound levels at wide open throttle. In the driver's seat it was actually louder than outside the car even with the engine at about 6 feet. The only louder part of the outside of the car was dead nutz aft of the car behind the exaust.
IIRC off the top of my head:
Driver's seat idle = 80 dB
Driver's seat WOT = 86 dB
There is no way on earth you're going to hear any signal to noise ratio difference between the best amplifier on the planet and the cheapest once you start using your automobile in the manner is was designed to function. If you use it as a boom-box or a living room you'll hear the difference.
Make sure the power outputs that you are comparing are across the same load - 2/4/8 ohms and that they're driven watts from x to y frequency. Also understand that you have to double the amount of power from an amplifier to increase the sound level 3 dB and that 3 dB is typically one little click on the volume control **** louder.
I love this picture as it looks like the Z is at an interview.
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