Show Me Your Soundsystem!!!!
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3
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From: Myrtle Beach, SC
2003 Custom JL Audio setup
I've done JL components up front, 500/1 amp on a 12" w7. W7 is a massive sub and wayyyy bigger then I wanted to go but got to good of a deal on it not to try it. Did all the install and fiberglassing myself (many years experience). Also just finished up redoing the dash to fit 2 gauges for the future turbo build. (Pics on the dash were taken before cleanup and wire install)
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 15
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From: California
That iPad there is so dope... and the blue lights for your controls!!! do you happen to have a tutorial?
Anyways this is my system, 2 12" Memphis subs in a custom box, really want to trade it for 2 10s to go under the strut bar to save space, or maybe 1 12 under the bar. These came from my old car and I just got a custom box, but it's a lot of bass for the little car haha
Anyways this is my system, 2 12" Memphis subs in a custom box, really want to trade it for 2 10s to go under the strut bar to save space, or maybe 1 12 under the bar. These came from my old car and I just got a custom box, but it's a lot of bass for the little car haha
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Stock look, not so stock sound
So I decided to go minimalist as far as foot print in order to reserve precious storage room in the car and to prevent further enticement for thievery.
I dropped 2 sets of SoundStream 400W reference component speakers in the back and the doors and a 400W Dayton Audio 10" enclosure sub in the previous sub compartment.
Doors: For the doors, the most invasive was the need to cut out a larger hole for the tweeter mounts. The metro speaker spacers to keep the window from hitting the speaker magnet were right sized for the door though they did require drilling holes in the door to mount and I had to shave the inside of them in order to get the speakers to fit in flush. I ran the speaker wires by making a small hole in the rubber grommet of the pre-existing wiring harness and through a pre-existing hole in the side of the car that was capped with a small rubber grommet as well. I just used sleeve and elec tape to cover the speaker wire at the door opening so you cant see speaker wire when you open the door. I used velcro and mounted the crossovers on the inside bottom corner of the door behind the 6.5 and ran wire up through a hole in the door to the tweeter.
Rear: I did these first and I thought it sucked because you have to rip out all of the plastics in the rear and sides to get to them but I thought it sucked less to do this, after I did the front speakers. Dropped the crossovers in the column behind the 6.5's and ran a wire to a superficially mounted tweeter right now, will cut out and mount permanent once I am convinced of positioning for best sound. This is another pain, I have to cut a hole in the plastic lining since there is no rear tweeter by default.
Sub: To retain space but still get decent bump I went with just using the space that was alloted for a sub in the Bose systems behind the drivers seat. I had to find a sub that could work in less than 1sqft of space which limited my options. I ended up using a 400w Dayton Audio, I coated the entire interior of the compartment with dynomat, then I poked holes in all the corners of the dynomat and filled with spray foam and then re-dynomatted the corners. Ran the speaker wire through a pre-existing hole, siliconed up, further dynomatted and then dropped sub in and sealed with Silicone, bought compartment cover with speaker grill used online for $20, used that but the speaker throws too much, will require an new aftermarket solution for cover.
Amp: Arc Audio 805, 5 channel amp, I am really glad I went with 5 channel now, the sound separation can be amazing. This amp pushes 120a to each of the 6.5&tweeters and 240a-400a to the sub. Its a micro so its small, fits well behind the seat and doesnt make much heat. Did have to drill holes for the mounting. I use the integrated dial crossover in the amp for the sub.
I previously installed a Pioneer BH2600 touchscreen and additional integrated rearview camera.
Overall the sound system is 1000% better than stock, I can get extremely loud without distortion on mids and highs and the sub definitely has good bump, particularly for me, the driver. Total invested including headunit ~$1200 and about 18 hours though I am sure a pro probably could of done it in 8 hours.
I dropped 2 sets of SoundStream 400W reference component speakers in the back and the doors and a 400W Dayton Audio 10" enclosure sub in the previous sub compartment.
Doors: For the doors, the most invasive was the need to cut out a larger hole for the tweeter mounts. The metro speaker spacers to keep the window from hitting the speaker magnet were right sized for the door though they did require drilling holes in the door to mount and I had to shave the inside of them in order to get the speakers to fit in flush. I ran the speaker wires by making a small hole in the rubber grommet of the pre-existing wiring harness and through a pre-existing hole in the side of the car that was capped with a small rubber grommet as well. I just used sleeve and elec tape to cover the speaker wire at the door opening so you cant see speaker wire when you open the door. I used velcro and mounted the crossovers on the inside bottom corner of the door behind the 6.5 and ran wire up through a hole in the door to the tweeter.
Rear: I did these first and I thought it sucked because you have to rip out all of the plastics in the rear and sides to get to them but I thought it sucked less to do this, after I did the front speakers. Dropped the crossovers in the column behind the 6.5's and ran a wire to a superficially mounted tweeter right now, will cut out and mount permanent once I am convinced of positioning for best sound. This is another pain, I have to cut a hole in the plastic lining since there is no rear tweeter by default.
Sub: To retain space but still get decent bump I went with just using the space that was alloted for a sub in the Bose systems behind the drivers seat. I had to find a sub that could work in less than 1sqft of space which limited my options. I ended up using a 400w Dayton Audio, I coated the entire interior of the compartment with dynomat, then I poked holes in all the corners of the dynomat and filled with spray foam and then re-dynomatted the corners. Ran the speaker wire through a pre-existing hole, siliconed up, further dynomatted and then dropped sub in and sealed with Silicone, bought compartment cover with speaker grill used online for $20, used that but the speaker throws too much, will require an new aftermarket solution for cover.
Amp: Arc Audio 805, 5 channel amp, I am really glad I went with 5 channel now, the sound separation can be amazing. This amp pushes 120a to each of the 6.5&tweeters and 240a-400a to the sub. Its a micro so its small, fits well behind the seat and doesnt make much heat. Did have to drill holes for the mounting. I use the integrated dial crossover in the amp for the sub.
I previously installed a Pioneer BH2600 touchscreen and additional integrated rearview camera.
Overall the sound system is 1000% better than stock, I can get extremely loud without distortion on mids and highs and the sub definitely has good bump, particularly for me, the driver. Total invested including headunit ~$1200 and about 18 hours though I am sure a pro probably could of done it in 8 hours.
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
A clean look
I'm trying to upgrade my sound system inside my 2006 Z, but i don't want a box or anything bulk or takes up space in the trunk. I want to replace the speakers in the back and the 2 speakers on each door. I have no problem with placing amplifiers because those I can hide. Im going to get a high quality DVD/CD player i don't want any huge subwoofer under the seat... Any suggestion?
Last edited by Heno; Apr 1, 2015 at 06:30 PM.