bad *** set up! and i can still use the trunk.

 

did you keep the factory nav as well as a double din ? Just wondering because im in that boat, wondering what to do? Id like to either keep the factory nav or make it a back up camera or something......just dont know how the factiry nav would work if i replaced everything else and tore my bose system out? Please get back w me<<<i have a 2008 with nav and factory bose system and want to replace all but am stuck withj what to do with the factory nav??????

 

Right now I have :

-Morel Elate 602 speakers (front)
-JL 10W3v2 in MDF enclosure places in factory sub place
-JL HD600/4 amp
-Pioneer AVH-7700BT (or something like that)
-Rear fill Bose stock speakers

I'm disappointed AF. Everything beside tweeters sounds poor. I've had this one time ago. I've had Pioneer P88RS HU in my E39 and sound was very clear but totally boring. This is similiar. My hope is that this HU is the same ****. I'm gonna check another HU soon. BTW I think that I'll need a processor to do some serious EQ and most importantly timing correction.

 

pioneer avic-8000nex
illusion audio c6 comps in custom kick panels and a-pillars.
illusion audio c10xl sub with single jl hd900/5 and mosconi 4to6 processor.

 

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...age-1?hl=+350z


here's my whole build log!

 

you done , get it metered ?

did not know rusty made drivers to work in such a small sealed enclosure

 

I laughed a little when I started looking at everyone's pics. Most of them including mine you can't see any of it. Its all tucked away. New Alpine System in. When I was a kid back in the 80's Alpine was the one to have and I'm glad that thing haven't changed. Amplifier PDRV75. Speakers SPR60C SPR60. JL Audio XD-PCS41B to finish. I didn't change the Kenwood 373 though. Need to save up for a little while till the head gets changed. I'm in love all over again.

 

home made RCA cables. JL 300/4 and JL 500/1 powering polk momo components up front and coaxials in rear. 2 JL W3 in zenclosure box. old android phone with car home ultra. modified wireless charging connector to provide low profile charge cable. 95 nissan maxima slide out dash tray modified to fit the 350, slides out when pushed in.

 

Is there a way to anchor the under strut bar sub box? Mine moves around too much while driving.

 

there are some threaded holes ( this is where you would mount the harness bar )
you can attach a strap to the back of the sub box and anchor it using those threaded holes.

 

Some very nice setups here. I am a new owner of an 2006 350z Touring with Bose in it. The CD does not work and I am contemplating upgrading it to a nicer system. Kenwood or Alpiine but dont know much about the setup yet.

 

Wish there were more roadster setups. Looking for a great bang for buck setup for my son's 2005 Enthusiast without NAV but with Bose. Is the rear really worth it in these cars?

 

Just finished adding new speakers, sub & amp for my daughter's 2005 Coupe. Went with Polk Coaxes, Sound Ordinance powered "8" Sub, and I had an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 500S we used for the Polks. Won't win any awards for install bling, but it sounds absolutely fantastic. Was going to keep the stock tweets going off the Bose amp, but they sounded awful, and for some reason, they were tied in with the rear stock speakers. Ended up disconnecting both, and just the Polks in the doors give a great soundstage, super clear and clean. The car already had a Kenwood deck. Did sound deadener most everywhere. Entire rear hatch floor, both behind the seats openings, under the carpet driver & passenger, and the outer door skins behind and a little ways back from the speaker openings. Also ran 16 gauge speaker wire into the doors.


Here's the deck, with the Bass **** below. Newly painted waterfall and repaired cubby door as well.


Amp mounted behind passenger seat on the wall below the glove box. Plenty of clearance behind the top of the panel for a couple screws, and again, plenty of room for a third on the bottom left. It's very secure here, and glovebox retained. I'll hide the ground under the carpet when the seat goes back in.


Here's the Polk Coax in the door. For $99 a pair, these really sound great with the Rockford Amp sending them 125W RMS. I have Polk Components in my truck and these coaxes sound just as good to me.


For the sub mount, we cut a piece of 5/8" particle board 20" x 12 1/4" and used 3 small "L" brackets along the side. That size board naturally lays almost perfectly level against the inside wall & rear shelf. Super easy to mount and no scary drilling into the floor. Got unlucky and one screw went through an existing hole hiding under the Dynamat.


Another small "L" Bracket in the back corner. The edge of the board sits nice and flush on a little shelf at the back of the enclosure. The black plastic piece is the retainer for the sub. The lip of the sub just slides under.


Then a leg cut 2 1/4" long from a piece of 1" Pex. 4" screw with large washer. Again, plenty of clearance underneath where the screw attaches. I might pull the screw and use a hanger bolt with a nut on top just for a little cleaner look. Will also Dynamat the board edges.


Here is the sub mounted. I had to bend the bracket on the top of the enclosure back a little bit so it didn't hit the top of the sub. Wires are hidden pretty well and if I need to service the sub or blow the fuse on the back, the three screws on the front holder come out, and it just slides under the one in the back. It sounds great here. Really good resonance, clean, tight, no rattles. And still lots of space kept free if needed.