Send me your e mail address I had the same problem with my red top but I rewired it ( real easy ) and i'll send you a ppic of my setup if intrested.

 

pumpedva@yahoo.com

thanks bro

 

As stated before, the Optima Red Top 35 should be a direct swap without any modifcations needed. I think the Yellow Top 35 can be purchased with switched poles, which makes it more suitable for the 350Z. However, you might still have the issue with the cables being too short.

 

where is the best place to buy the replacement red top battery? cost?!? etc. thanks,
Jason!

 

If you have costco in your area. They have the red top 35. Im going to pick up one today probably. As for the yellow tops. Optima does have a yellow top D35R model. Its reverse terminal as we need. But, looks like it is only avail overseas for whatever reason. Id say just stick with the red top. Also, the Optima D51R Yellow would probably fit but, the CCA and CA is closer to stock. Just some suggestions.

 

take a look at stinger yellow series & red series

take a look at kinetic purples

both companies i am pretty sure have the side mounts and top post together

something in there line might be what your looking for


and have the post were you need and the cables might reach


these are high end batteries

 

Any Group 35 battery should work..

if you buy a different battery other than Group 35 you will need the reverse terminal version or you will need to extend your (+) battery cable.

I had an Optima yellow top D51R - Died within a year.. It is a lightweight reverse terminal direct replacement with no other mods to make it fit... i totally drained it one day by installing my Sirius radio module incorrectly and it never recovered. So much for deep cycle.

Then, I replaced it with a Optima Red Top 34R - Died within a year.. This battery is too short by about 1".. you'll need a piece of wood under it to be able to tie it down.. The car sat for 1 month in Oct and it totally drained.. since then.. battery has been acting "funny".. so with the onset of winter and remembering what happened to the yellow top.. I bought a Sears Diehard Group 35.. i'm through with Optimas lol

--mike

 

Try a grounding kit, I reckon it keeps the battery in good condition longer.....

 

Just wanted to add that the D35 Yellow top was a direct swap for me. There were no modifications needed whatsoever (besides the base that comes with all batteries from Optima). I was reading on here that there were people needing negative terminal shims or longer cables for use with other yellow tops. Not the D35!

Got mine from:
http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/

 

I would get yellowtop and make it fit cause its awsome. Just never kill a deepcylce battery super low. Tweeter did that in my tiburon and good thing the battery was under warrenty still cause running it that low killed it. But optima are the best.

 

I got a D35, when I tightened down the negative, I could still twist it off. I replaced it with a 10" cable. Others have said wrap a piece of wire around the post.

Chris

 

same thing happened to me.. I just gave it a squeeze with a pair of heavy duty pliers to bend it slightly and it's snug as a bug now

--mike

 

Will I have this prob with the R34? Leemik, I cant believe you went through so many optima batterys...... I had a yellow top on my old Eclipse T but never had any probs and I ran a high power sucking MTX system.. I have had my stock battery almost two years now with no probs.. I must say maybe it has to do with the grounding kit I bought from japan. I just bought a redtop optima and cant wait to install today or tomorrow sometime..

 

You could go with a Gel battery espeically in a hot place. Where i live it gets to 120 in the summer and it kills batterys. And I think Gel is lighter too.

 

Yes, you will most likely have this problem with the R34 too.. not only that but you may have to put a piece of wood under your battery or it will not clamp down.. (battery too short)

I went through so many Optimas because I have a very small drain (probably from the CarPC) even when the car is off and my Z sits for weeks and weeks at a time in an unheated garage during the winter.. Optimas are supposed to recover aka deep cycle.. but my experience.. and my friends experience with Optimas have been similar.. they are not recovering as advertised..

--mike

 

Well they won't recover if you kill them too much.

What psu where you using on the carpc? Most of them protect you from that.

 

Aw ****!! Its too late, I already got my optima leemik, but oh well, are you telling me even with the red adaptor plate the optima comes with, it will still be short???

 

OPUS

 

Hmm that shouldn't of happen unless you where using standby. I have had both the m1 and m2 and the dsatx all been fine.

 

I was using standby.. that's what killed my stock battery.. shut that off.. but after that incident, battery would not charge period lol replaced it with a yellow top

then i screwed up my Sirus radio install and drained my yellow top one day a year later.. battery never recovered as it should have.. Battery would not hold a charge for more than 24 hours..

so i put in a red top last year.. that died last month.. i think the carPC is still drawing a teeny bit of current.. Battery would not hold a charge for more than 3 days..

so much for 1000 deep cycles or what ever they are rated for..

I now have a Sears Diehard lets see how long that lasts

--mike