Has anyone got any pictures of the door being done. I can get behind the speaker just by taking it out but not sure about the rest of the door.

The big metal plate that is bolted to the door, can this just be removed or does it have stuff like the window stuff attached to it?

Has anyone managed to dynamat the whole of the outer skin (one of the weakest parts IMO due to the flat thin nature of the panel)

 

Not sure where you're going with this. I've never had to deaden the very outside panel of my car. It doesnt make all that much sense to me. Two layers on the "big metal plate that is bolted to the door" should be more than sufficient in providing decreased road noise and increased sound quality.

 

The point of sound deadening is to stiffen up weaker areas of the car. If anything the large metal plate is actually going to be fairly rigid due to the number of undents / shapes all over it. The same goes for round the edges of the door. Due to the shape of the metal it will be fairly digid. The weakest parts which will benefit most from sound deadning are large flat/smooth areas.

The outer skin of the door is made of thinner metal and is a single sheet thus its very flexable. Its really simple to test. Remove the speaker and put deadening behind it. Now close the door and tap various parts around the door. You will notice a really tinny noise most places but where you have deadened it, it will sound vastly different and will sound 'dead' with no sort of resonance through the panel.

 

I taped off all holes, bolts, ect... Then used spray in bed liner to cover the inside door panels(metal). Just make sure and use drop cloths to cover up any fabric, seats, ect that you don't want over spray to get on. It worked fine for me, then again so does dynomat... Spray in bedliner was just an easier more cost effective option for me.