Spike100

I realize this subject has been discussed literally “to death,” and I did do a search (spent a couple of hours reading the long threads about this). But, I find myself in a situation where hopefully some members can provide information.

Situation/Configuration: I decided to swap out a Farenheit T-7000MHR for the T-7001MHR version. I know you’re probably thinking: “WTH…What is this guy thinking?... Doing almost what he already has.” Well, truth is I got bored with my current setup and wanted to try something different. I was thinking I would install a reverse camera (and maybe a forward facing camera). The idea of swapping out the 7000MHR for a 7001MHR was simply the second video input available on the 7001MHR. That allows me to easily connect another device and use the remote to switch between devices.
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The Story: I bought a Farenheit T-7001MHR on an eBay auction for $89. After receiving the item (never installed and is new condition from a good eBay seller), I decided to hook it up “on the test bench” before installing it. I used an AC to DC converter (a good one) as the power source, and acquired the video from a component lead on an LCD TV.

The first thing I notice is the 7001 does not have the protective back that is on the 7000. The 7001 is inside a cheap acrylic headrest shroud. Removing the flimsy shroud exposes the circuit board (the circuit board is totally naked and exposed without the headrest shroud). Since I felt that the circuit board requires some type of protection, I left the acrylic head rest shroud in place during my test. After about 90 minutes I noticed that the back of the unit was pretty warm (not hot, but very warm) and the acrylic was beginning to soften, especially at the lower two corners where it actually started to dent inwards. Yikes! But mercifully, it seems to hit that point and not get much warmer (I did a 5 hour test and 90 minutes seems to be the maximum temperature). I never subjected the Farenheit T-7000MHR to this test, so I have no idea if there is any difference although the T-7000MHR is not wrapped inside the same “closely-fitting” acrylic layer that protects the circuit board on Farenheit’s 7001 version.
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My Questions:

1) Does anyone have any opinions on the durability and longevity of the Farenheit LCD screen (in general, 7000 vs. 7001, or whatever)?

2) When installing the Farenheit T-7001MHR, should you cut (remove) the overlap (trim) part of the headrest shroud and leave the back and sides of the original shroud to protect the circuit board? My guess is yes.
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Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions --Spike

Spike100

Bump… Help

C’mon guys… Help me out here. There must be some readers who have installed the Farenheit T-7001 MHR (vs. the Farenheit T-7000 MHR) monitor.

My Question: When installing the Farenheit T-7001 MHR, do I cut off the lip and leave the rest of the acylic shroud in place (back and side wall) for the install?

If my question is not clear, then just tell me how you did it (installed the Farenheit T-7001 MHR monitor).

--Spike

AUtigers350z

iTrader: (18)

Did you get rid of the 7000? The way I have my screen set up, I have a Input converter that I bought for about 27$ at Wal-Mart. The Video out goes to the LCD screen and the Audio outs go to my Alpine DVA-9861. Then I have the Alpine's video out going to Input 1, Xbox 360 going to Input 2, and will soon have Garmin Navigation going to Input 3. When I want to watch a DVD thru the Alpine, I press Input 1. When I want to play the 360, I press Input 2, etc. And using that setup, the video always goes to the LCD screen and the sound always goes to the cars speakers via the head unit. If you got rid of that screen and are simply looking for advice about the 7001 and its cheap plastic housing then disregard this message

Good Luck!

Spike100

^^^

I kept the 7000. My thinking was the new 7001 wrapped in its acrylic shroud ran so “hot” that it may soon die, and then I would reinstall the 7000. I was not sure about the best way to handle installing the 7001 (whether or not to cut/saw the shroud lip; not obvious with the 7001 as it is with the 7000, and hopefully someone will post to this thread with advice for me).

Regardless of what I do with swapping the 7000 for the7001, I am planning to do what you suggest. The plan is placing an A/B switch (actually A/B/C switch) to support multiple screens and devices (as you describe in your post).

Thanks for help, --Spike