JL XR650 install ?
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JL XR650 install ?
Need a quick answer, installing the XR650's today. In a test fit, I have learned that these speakers are deep! If you have successfully installed these speakers, what size spacer did you end up using? If you made your own spacer, I would greatly appreciate any advice you can pass on.
TIA
TIA
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I just installed JL VR650CSI speakers in the front doors.
The things took 1.25" spacers to clear the window (just
barely) Any more and I would come close to hitting the
door panels. The Xover went just above the speaker.
Good Luck!
The things took 1.25" spacers to clear the window (just
barely) Any more and I would come close to hitting the
door panels. The Xover went just above the speaker.
Good Luck!
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Originally posted by mgoza
I just installed JL VR650CSI speakers in the front doors.
The things took 1.25" spacers to clear the window (just
barely) Any more and I would come close to hitting the
door panels. The Xover went just above the speaker.
Good Luck!
I just installed JL VR650CSI speakers in the front doors.
The things took 1.25" spacers to clear the window (just
barely) Any more and I would come close to hitting the
door panels. The Xover went just above the speaker.
Good Luck!
Thanks a lot! We are calling around now to find them. With any luck, we'll be finished the install this weekend.
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Originally posted by mgoza
I just installed JL VR650CSI speakers in the front doors.
The things took 1.25" spacers to clear the window (just
barely) Any more and I would come close to hitting the
door panels. The Xover went just above the speaker.
Good Luck!
I just installed JL VR650CSI speakers in the front doors.
The things took 1.25" spacers to clear the window (just
barely) Any more and I would come close to hitting the
door panels. The Xover went just above the speaker.
Good Luck!
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Dumb question, but what is MDF?? and since I am trying to come up with a new system design myself, can you recomend any on0line sources of fabricating materials that will help me match the interior of the car??
Thanks. Andy
Thanks. Andy
#7
MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard. You can pick some up at Home Depot. I used the original speaker as a template and doubled up two pieces of 3/4" to achieve 1.5" depth.
Where to get fabricating materials, I don't know since I have placed all my new equipment is the stock locations and the new Amp under the storage area being the passenger seat.
I think Onecoolee has mentioned something about getting a matching carpet or plastic to the original in is thread of his custom sub enclosure, you might want to do a search on that.
Where to get fabricating materials, I don't know since I have placed all my new equipment is the stock locations and the new Amp under the storage area being the passenger seat.
I think Onecoolee has mentioned something about getting a matching carpet or plastic to the original in is thread of his custom sub enclosure, you might want to do a search on that.
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Originally posted by issac
MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard. You can pick some up at Home Depot. I used the original speaker as a template and doubled up two pieces of 3/4" to achieve 1.5" depth.
MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard. You can pick some up at Home Depot. I used the original speaker as a template and doubled up two pieces of 3/4" to achieve 1.5" depth.
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I had to make the spacers. I used the original speaker as
a template for the base. That way I could use the same
mounting holes. I then attached a ring to the base to give
me the rest of the height I needed. I made my base out of
1/2" ply and the ring out of 3/4" ply. I then caulked and
screwed the plates together. Make sure the ring portion fits
tight to the outer metal ring of the speaker. I had to trim
back one of the plastic support ribs of the door panel slightly
to get it to fit. Also, if you can angle the outer ring about
1/8" it will clear the grills completely. Mine just hits the grill
in one spot and pushes it out about 1/16" so the 1/8" would
make it clear. A couple of minutes on a belt sander would
acheive this quite easily.
Your biggest problem with the doors is getting speaker
wire to them. If you don't use the stock harness, getting
wire into the door is difficult. The door uses an interface
plug to transfer wiring in/out. Luckily there are enough
empty pins that you can drill it out and slip some 16 guage
speaker wire through. Be carefull drilling. The drill likes to
wander. I don't want to know what it would cost to replace :-O
a template for the base. That way I could use the same
mounting holes. I then attached a ring to the base to give
me the rest of the height I needed. I made my base out of
1/2" ply and the ring out of 3/4" ply. I then caulked and
screwed the plates together. Make sure the ring portion fits
tight to the outer metal ring of the speaker. I had to trim
back one of the plastic support ribs of the door panel slightly
to get it to fit. Also, if you can angle the outer ring about
1/8" it will clear the grills completely. Mine just hits the grill
in one spot and pushes it out about 1/16" so the 1/8" would
make it clear. A couple of minutes on a belt sander would
acheive this quite easily.
Your biggest problem with the doors is getting speaker
wire to them. If you don't use the stock harness, getting
wire into the door is difficult. The door uses an interface
plug to transfer wiring in/out. Luckily there are enough
empty pins that you can drill it out and slip some 16 guage
speaker wire through. Be carefull drilling. The drill likes to
wander. I don't want to know what it would cost to replace :-O
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I have 1" spacers and have made .25" spacers. Tonight I will be installing everything and sealing it up nice and tight
I was able to run 2 12 guage wires through the stock harness - have taken a lot of pictures illustrating step by step and will be posting the how to shortly...
Originally posted by mgoza
Your biggest problem with the doors is getting speaker
wire to them. If you don't use the stock harness, getting
wire into the door is difficult. The door uses an interface
plug to transfer wiring in/out. Luckily there are enough
empty pins that you can drill it out and slip some 16 guage
speaker wire through. Be carefull drilling. The drill likes to
wander. I don't want to know what it would cost to replace :-O
Your biggest problem with the doors is getting speaker
wire to them. If you don't use the stock harness, getting
wire into the door is difficult. The door uses an interface
plug to transfer wiring in/out. Luckily there are enough
empty pins that you can drill it out and slip some 16 guage
speaker wire through. Be carefull drilling. The drill likes to
wander. I don't want to know what it would cost to replace :-O
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