tattoo60012

Ok, so I'm doing my install and I'm not certain that I can fit everything I want in the place I have in mind. I was originally planning on putting my 10" and the 2 amps, cap, and crossovers for the front components all in the compartment behind the driver’s seat. I'm starting to figure out that even if I stick a horseshoe up my rear and felch a leprechaun I probably won't be able to fit it all. Then even if I do manage to shoe horn everything in there tuning the system with such limited access will be a ROYAL pain, as will wiring, and everything else. So, now I need to move something.

Option 1: Putting my electronics in the glove box cubby and fiber glassing a small glove box with a Lexan back to still a store a small quantity of stuff and then build a custom fiberglass enclosure to fit behind the driver’s side. I'm doing a stupid amount of sound deadening so I'm not too worried about the SQ of the sub behind the driver’s seat, but it is a concern.

Option 2: Electronics in stock sub location, and then build a custom fiberglass box in the spare tire well. Or build a custom support frame in the trunk to hold up a Lexan cover which will be the new trunk floor. I would still have the carpeting covering up the Lexan for daily driving, but showing off the system would be as simple as pulling out the carpeting.

Option 3: Electronics in stock sub location, and build a custom fiberglass enclosure in front of the rear strut. The biggest reason for going in front of the strut instead of under it is I regularly need to carry items that would not fit in the trunk if they could not slide under the strut, and I can't do the corner box as I still like to golf, and my clubs use that space.

Obviously I like option 3 the least, but I'm not yet ruling it out. It's definitely easiest of the options. I like option 1 because I don't lose any functionality, and I keep my spare tire. I'm not certain why I feel it necessary to keep it around, I haven't changed a flat on any of my cars in 6 years, and I wouldn't have had to change that one except I waited a couple of weeks too long for new tires and one finally gave up the ghost. I'm not even certain if my aftermarket wheels will fit in the trunk space if I do get a flat. If I remember correctly my rears are 295/35R18 does anyone know if that will even fit in the trunk? I know I could have checked it easily enough when I bought the darn things, but I didn't think of it. If I can't put the flat tire in the back then carrying the spare is a wasted effort anyway, and makes me feel better about taking it out in the name of a sound system.

The only thing I won't do is buy a pre-fabricated enclosure, I know it's a world easier and ultimately probably cheaper, but I'm bored and it's cold in the windy city. I already tore out the whole interior of the car for the sound deadening, and now my imagination is working overtime. Am I forgetting anything? All thoughts, comments, ideas, etc..... are welcome and will be considered. Thank you in advance for any input.

rotaryrocket7

I put 2 12's with everything else you mentioned via option #2.
Still fit 2 sets of clubs in the car without issue. Only downside is you loose the spare, but whatever...

tattoo60012

Rotaryrocket7, Thanks for the reply,
What are the specs for your amp/ 12's Power output RMS / Power handling RMS?
Did you keep the plastic piece that goes between the carpet and the spare?
Did you keep the foam floor support pieces on either side of the trunk?

first350

iTrader: (24)

your 18" wheel can easily fit in the rear...when you remove the spare tire, your 18" wheel will take that space - it'll be higher and the floor mat will buldge up, but it works. (when I go to the track, I remove the spare tire to be able to carry me 4 track wheels)

Also, if you can somehow fit your sub and amp in the OE sub location, you can find hidden places for your cross-overs, cap, wiring, etc in other places (I fit my cross-overs behind the door panels)

-Peter

rotaryrocket7

I did keep the foam on the sides, and the plastic piece that covers the middle of the floor above the Spare. I cutout the middle of that plastic piece to fit the subs, which are flushmounted in a 1/2 MDF box, reinforced with FG. I have 3 amps, 2 PPI (prior to them going down the tube with Directed Electronics...) which output 400/200 respectively. I also have a Pheonix Gold mono block that outputs 800ish I think...

I'm running Dynaudio 3 ways in front, 2 additional dynaudio 7's in the rear for fill and additional mid bass, and 2 12" PPI flat piston drivers.

With what you have you could mount everything in the front. You could consider mounting the one amp below the Bose sub location, and the other on the passenger side below the glove box. While mounting the 10 in the stock sub location. The cross-overs could be mounted in the glove box, underneath the floor. Ditch the cap, it's not worth it with what you're running, I don't use one either...

What kind of sound deadening are you doing. I did a bunch inititally, but decided to all out this time. I picked up Open Cell Foam, Closed cell Ensolite, another 100 Sq Ft of Raammat (Already have 150 in), and a bunch of rattle pad from SS.

tattoo60012

first350, thanks for the response, I didn't even think that the non spare tire would fit in the well. So often the maypop (donut) is of a smaller diameter than the regular wheels, as is the spare tire well meaning the flat tire doesn't fit in the spare location at all, so that's good to know.

for what it's worth space considerations are as follows
1 10" sub + .8 ft3 of airspace
2 amps 12"x2 3/8"x13" (WHD) each
2 focal KF crossovers
1 1.5 farad digital capacitor

tattoo60012

rotaryrocket7 WOW!! that's alot more than I have going in. Nice setup! Now I want to go get more speakers. How did you mount the 3 ways? Do you have any pics?

I have 62.5 ft2 of raammat to get started, but I think I'm going to order another 62.5 after pounding on some of the sheet metal. I have 4 yards of closed cell ensolite to get started with. I didn't know how gnarly everything would or wouldn't be so I went conservative with the initial order. Splitting the order into 2 shipments cost me 18 bucks, which in my estimation at the time was worth the risk of having too much deadening and nowhere to put it. Live and learn.

I molded the base for my pods on my door panels last night and after looking at them for a bit I'm still trying to figure out the best way to deaden the panels. My original thought is to wrap the hold down clips in rubber tape and cover the inner door skin in raammat and ensolite. I was also going to do the outer door skin as far as I could reach through the speaker hole and then buffer the stock speaker hole with ensolite. Is that good enough or is there more that needs to be done?

rotaryrocket7

I think you've got the right idea. The outer door skin actually has good deadening on the lower half, but like you, I'm adding as much as possible through the existing holes. I'm also covering the inner skin with two layers or raammat, and a layer of ensolite. I've got Nazar's pods on the way for the front as even with the deadening the dyn's found a way to rattle the passenger door, so we'll see how much improvement in staging that brings.

I fiberglassed kick panels for the 3 inch and 1 inch tweeter.

I didn't take many pics when I did this cause I did it when my car had 100 miles on it and I was damn anxious to get it back on the road

I am going to re-do somethings that I wanted to change, and in addition do more deadening (under the seats etc...), so I'll try and get some pics and post them.

Based on your responses you seem to know what you're doing, got to it and let us know how it comes out. Oh, and I'd say you'll probably need more ensolite than 3 yards, but if you don't go under the seats, you may be alright.