Is 4 Gauge Enough and Where to Place Crossovers?
03-12-2007, 12:18 PM
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Is 4 Gauge Enough and Where to Place Crossovers?
Two questions for those in the know:
1) This weekend I plan to replace my two current amps with a JL 300/2 and and JL 500/1. My question is, I currently have a single 4 gauge run to a distribution block wihch splits it out into two 8 gauge runs. Would these be sufficient to run the new JL amps?
I'm considering running a new single 2 gauge length and splitting it out into two 4 gauges but am wondering if this is necessary...
2) I am also replacing my current component set with a new set from Infinity. My previous set had the crossovers mounted low in the doors however the instructions in the new set advise against a door mount as the crossovers are not weather proof. Suggestions?
Thanks...
1) This weekend I plan to replace my two current amps with a JL 300/2 and and JL 500/1. My question is, I currently have a single 4 gauge run to a distribution block wihch splits it out into two 8 gauge runs. Would these be sufficient to run the new JL amps?
I'm considering running a new single 2 gauge length and splitting it out into two 4 gauges but am wondering if this is necessary...
2) I am also replacing my current component set with a new set from Infinity. My previous set had the crossovers mounted low in the doors however the instructions in the new set advise against a door mount as the crossovers are not weather proof. Suggestions?
Thanks...
03-12-2007, 12:42 PM
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1 - your current guages are fine for your new setup, just keep the 8 awg runs short (under 3 foot each).
2 - i don't like the xovers in the doors myself. not easy access, not weatherproof, etc.
2 - i don't like the xovers in the doors myself. not easy access, not weatherproof, etc.
Last edited by StreetOC192; 03-12-2007 at 12:45 PM.
03-12-2007, 06:00 PM
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First, you might as well run all 8 guage, because once you go to a smaller wire you limit your current. Even with the 4 guage lead, the current drops after the dist. block. I would go with atleast 4 all the way back.
03-13-2007, 07:00 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Faikius
Two questions for those in the know:
1) This weekend I plan to replace my two current amps with a JL 300/2 and and JL 500/1. My question is, I currently have a single 4 gauge run to a distribution block wihch splits it out into two 8 gauge runs. Would these be sufficient to run the new JL amps?
I'm considering running a new single 2 gauge length and splitting it out into two 4 gauges but am wondering if this is necessary...
2) I am also replacing my current component set with a new set from Infinity. My previous set had the crossovers mounted low in the doors however the instructions in the new set advise against a door mount as the crossovers are not weather proof. Suggestions?
Thanks...
1) This weekend I plan to replace my two current amps with a JL 300/2 and and JL 500/1. My question is, I currently have a single 4 gauge run to a distribution block wihch splits it out into two 8 gauge runs. Would these be sufficient to run the new JL amps?
I'm considering running a new single 2 gauge length and splitting it out into two 4 gauges but am wondering if this is necessary...
2) I am also replacing my current component set with a new set from Infinity. My previous set had the crossovers mounted low in the doors however the instructions in the new set advise against a door mount as the crossovers are not weather proof. Suggestions?
Thanks...
4 awg is fine for what your planning
though i did and would do 0 awg in case you ever want to get larger amps
and woofers that handle more power
i put my crossovers in my glove box
mine are quite large
9" l x 4 " w x 1.5" h
03-13-2007, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
1 - your current guages are fine for your new setup, just keep the 8 awg runs short (under 3 foot each).
2 - i don't like the xovers in the doors myself. not easy access, not weatherproof, etc.
2 - i don't like the xovers in the doors myself. not easy access, not weatherproof, etc.
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03-13-2007, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
4 awg is fine for what your planning
though i did and would do 0 awg in case you ever want to get larger amps
and woofers that handle more power
i put my crossovers in my glove box
mine are quite large
9" l x 4 " w x 1.5" h
though i did and would do 0 awg in case you ever want to get larger amps
and woofers that handle more power
i put my crossovers in my glove box
mine are quite large
9" l x 4 " w x 1.5" h
03-14-2007, 06:06 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Faikius
If I end up doing another run, I'll go ahead and go with 2 or 0 awg. It looks like I'm going to give the 4/8 solution a try for now. If I have any issues, it'll be a good excuse for an upgrade
you will be fine
i am always changing stuff around so i leave my options open
cool
03-14-2007, 07:18 AM
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About a 1/4 of the way down this page: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm shows that over a 15 foot run, 4awg will show only a 1/2 volt drop up to 131 amps. I believe it should be determined by the amp ratings of the amplifiers used. Some class amps are more efficient than others.
To the OP: Add up the fuse ratings of all of your amplifiers and refer to the chart on the page I linked above.
To the OP: Add up the fuse ratings of all of your amplifiers and refer to the chart on the page I linked above.
03-14-2007, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
About a 1/4 of the way down this page: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm shows that over a 15 foot run, 4awg will show only a 1/2 volt drop up to 131 amps. I believe it should be determined by the amp ratings of the amplifiers used. Some class amps are more efficient than others.
To the OP: Add up the fuse ratings of all of your amplifiers and refer to the chart on the page I linked above.
To the OP: Add up the fuse ratings of all of your amplifiers and refer to the chart on the page I linked above.
The fuse ratings for my amps are as follows:
JL 300/2 - 40amp
JL 500/1 - 50amp
Based on the charts listed by the link you provided, my 4awg run split into two 8awg runs should be sufficient.
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